Newbie to lowering, need some help
#1
GT Member
Thread Starter
Newbie to lowering, need some help
Hi guys, as the title says, I'm a newbie and have never lowered a car before and honestly don't know much about suspension components. But I now want to lower my 2013 5.0 because the hideous wheel gap is really starting to bother me. So how should I go about doing this and what exactly do I need? I know that I have my eyes set on some ford racing K springs but is there anything else I would need on top of just the lowering springs?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Thanks in advance everyone!
#2
On my 2013 Mustang GT, I installed steeda ultra lite springs in the front and rear, and installed an adjustable steeda rear panhard bar. When I installed the front springs, I simply reinstalled the stock strut mounts in the front. I also purchased camber bolts for the front wheels, but the camber ended up being within spec when I took the car for alignment after installing the new hardware.
#4
You can use just the springs, the panhard bar is advised the recenter the rear under the car, it gets offset to the side when lowering with the factory bar. Any panhard bar equipped car is going to shift when lowering the car, in a way a panhard bar is a pendulum…
Lowering with just the springs may cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Send me an email if you would like to discuss packages (tim @ steeda.com) In short ... yes, you can do just the springs and panhard bar.
Best Regards,
TJ
Lowering with just the springs may cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones don’t.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Send me an email if you would like to discuss packages (tim @ steeda.com) In short ... yes, you can do just the springs and panhard bar.
Best Regards,
TJ
#7
Steeda sports would be one of the only springs I would run with stock dampers. I did this a few years back and the ride wasn't all that bad. However...people tend to not realize how much new dampers improve ride/performance if they've never had anything other than oem dampers. Once you drive your car with new dampers, you'll instantly see what your missing.
Just save your money until you can get at least springs, panhard bar, dampers and new strut mounts. Buying new dampers makes the install much easier btw. That way you can just pull the old struts and put in the new.
Just save your money until you can get at least springs, panhard bar, dampers and new strut mounts. Buying new dampers makes the install much easier btw. That way you can just pull the old struts and put in the new.
#8
Take a look at the hotchkis springs. Another set of springs that would go decently well with the stock dampers, BMR as well.
This is a pic of one of the guys I know who works over at hotchkis. The drop is perfect if you ask me.
The wheels are 19x9/19x10 just to give you a good idea.
This is a pic of one of the guys I know who works over at hotchkis. The drop is perfect if you ask me.
The wheels are 19x9/19x10 just to give you a good idea.
#9
Shelby GT500 Member
we have quite few potholes/bad roads here, so went with FRPP lowering/performance kit and had it installed by the dealership.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
Last edited by CiniZter; 6/28/13 at 07:09 AM.
#10
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Join Date: September 14, 2004
Location: Greenfield, WI
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we have quite few potholes/bad roads here, so went with FRPP lowering/performance kit and had it installed by the dealership.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
Is this essentially the same as the Sport Package suspension?
How does your GT handle, now? Was it a significant upgrade in regards to body roll and brake dive?
How much did they charge you for the kit and the installation?
#11
Shelby GT500 Member
^ I installed just the lowering spring did not go for the handling package, not sure they have sport package... FRPP lowering spring costed parts around 160 and install + alignement around 140...ddnt need anyother stuff as lowering was just 1 inch... service tech said i dont need even to change the strut mount.
sorry i cannt provide you input on how handling package performs. but for just the lowering kit.. i got brake dive completely resolved, plus car feels so much aggressive.
sorry i cannt provide you input on how handling package performs. but for just the lowering kit.. i got brake dive completely resolved, plus car feels so much aggressive.
#12
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: January 15, 2005
Location: So. FL
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Below is my 2013 with Steeda Sport Springs (555-8215's), plus Koni Yellow Adjustables (11+), Steeda HD Strut Mounts, Steeda adj UCA & HD Mount, J&M adj panhard bar, BBR Billet LCAs, FRPP LCA relocation brackets, and Steeda 1 1/4" tubular adj rear swaybar. No more excessive wheel gap and the handling amazing.
#14
we have quite few potholes/bad roads here, so went with FRPP lowering/performance kit and had it installed by the dealership.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/musta...mancepacks.asp
Before
After
it lowered 1in all around.. it is not agressive drop but i felt it does elimitate your ugly wheel gap,also an easy daily driver.
That looks really good. Can you tell me what is the ride height of your setup front and rear, measured from ground to fender lip?
Thanks
#16
Shelby GT500 Member
#17
Thank you Sir!
I am at 28" Front, 29" Rear... 2012 V6 with Steeda Sport springs in the front only. Wanted to know if my setup made sense as i tought it looked good and found yours to have about the same rake. I installed all 4 Steeda Springs and did not like the leveled look, my front end only dropped about ½ inch. So i reinstalled the rear stock springs (same as GT).
BTW, those quad exhaust look fantastic on you DIB GT.
I am at 28" Front, 29" Rear... 2012 V6 with Steeda Sport springs in the front only. Wanted to know if my setup made sense as i tought it looked good and found yours to have about the same rake. I installed all 4 Steeda Springs and did not like the leveled look, my front end only dropped about ½ inch. So i reinstalled the rear stock springs (same as GT).
BTW, those quad exhaust look fantastic on you DIB GT.
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