Need suspension advice
If you have the budget ... dampers could be done at the same time & save in install labor.
Camber bolts are an alternative to using strut mounts, they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts) and are an eccentric bolt. Under shock loads they can shift and cause changes in alignment settings.
Best Regards,
TJ
Camber bolts are an alternative to using strut mounts, they have less room for adjustment (about ½ degree vs 1-1.5 degrees with mounts) and are an eccentric bolt. Under shock loads they can shift and cause changes in alignment settings.
Best Regards,
TJ
So It sounds like I would be much better off just getting some camber plates vs bolts. Forgot too ask about strut mounts. I know the brembo cars may have a little better strut mounts, but should I replace them as well? Thanks
I'm running camber bolts and not CC plates. They are a lot less likely to loosen up over the plates. In the past I have used them all. Before camber bolts were available, I would just elongate the top strut mounting holes to gain the adjustment. All are safe options and get the job done. They just cost more. A good alignment tech can work miracles without buying fancy parts.
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If you're not tracking the car, here's my two cents:
* Steeda springs...check.
* Camber bolts...check.
* BMR adjustable PHB...maybe you want to wait and see if your rear end shifts after the drop. Some cars shift a little, some a lot. You may not notice if it's less than 1/2 inch, and you can save some $ here if you skip this. If you decide to upgrade PHB later, it's a very easy install.
* LCA poly bushings...not sure what advantage you'll see with these, you can save some $ here if you skip these.
* Caster/camber plates and/or strut mounts...if your vehicle is new, you may be able to use your stock mounts with camber bolts - that's what I did. You can save some $ here if you skip this.
* Dampers (struts/shocks)...many times a lowered Mustang's OEM struts/shocks don't perform well or last long. You may want to consider adding these to your shopping list now, instead of later.
If you do decide to hit the road course, you may want to consider upgrading:
* Sway bars/bushings/mounts with poly bushings.
* Dampers (struts/shocks).
* Adjustable PHB with poly bushings.
* Front strut tower brace (in the engine bay, if you don't already have one).
I'm running camber bolts and not CC plates. They are a lot less likely to loosen up over the plates. In the past I have used them all. Before camber bolts were available, I would just elongate the top strut mounting holes to gain the adjustment. All are safe options and get the job done. They just cost more. A good alignment tech can work miracles without buying fancy parts.
^ +1...This! ^
I hope this helps, also there are some dedicated suspension tech guys on this forum that can help you, some may be sponsors, too. They know their stuff. Good luck, and keep us posted!
This is what I am looking to get. Not tracking the car at this point. Just trying to lower, and keep most of the ride quality. Daily drive as well. Am I missing anything?? Thanks
Attachment 155291
Attachment 155291
-Do not use camber bolts. Not the place to get cheap even on a street car and definitely not it you ever track the car. Get the Steeda HD strut mounts as the ford part is crap anyway. And are you sure the drop with the Steeda Sports will require a camber adjustment. I doubt it but ask Steeda. Bet you will still be in spec with that modest drop.
-LCA. Not sure this will do anything for you.
-The Steeda sport is a great spring choice.
-I would not buy the adjustable PHB until your new suspension is installed as you may find your axle is centered without it. You can always add this piece after you have the other work done and measure the axle center. My car was not centered very well in factory new form and would likely have dropped to correct center after lowering if I had not opted for a Fays2 watts link instead of PHB.
Missing from your list is a key issue. The Mustang suspension needs proper dampers. The stock dampers are a serious weak link in this car. I had awful hop on hard acceleration until I put proper dampers (and springs) in my car. Did not change the LCA's and the hop is gone because the dampers and springs are dealing with the acceleration and deceleration forces properly now. And lower springs will only make the stock damper perform even worse. With the current Koni sale you can get Steeda Sport springs and Koni SR.T dampers for about six hundred dollars. You will be amazed at how much better you car rides and handles.
Last edited by todcp; Apr 22, 2014 at 08:42 PM. Reason: added comment on shocks and springs to look into
Are the relo bracket just a drag race thing? On the street and on the road course I did not see any issue in my car.
Could the Fays2 Watts Link set at one notch below middle be the reason I have not had a traction issue?
My car is....1.4 inch drop in rear and 7/8 drop in front with my Steeda Boss 302 springs, Koni Yellow and Fays2 Watts link. Just got back from two and a half hours of track time and I can tell you the 2014 Vette that I was playing with saw no loss of traction either as he tried to stay with me
Could the Fays2 Watts Link set at one notch below middle be the reason I have not had a traction issue?
My car is....1.4 inch drop in rear and 7/8 drop in front with my Steeda Boss 302 springs, Koni Yellow and Fays2 Watts link. Just got back from two and a half hours of track time and I can tell you the 2014 Vette that I was playing with saw no loss of traction either as he tried to stay with me
Last edited by todcp; Apr 23, 2014 at 02:33 PM.
Are the relo bracket just a drag race thing? On the street and on the road course I did not see any issue in my car. Could the Fays2 Watts Link set at one notch below middle be the reason I have not had a traction issue? My car is....1.4 inch drop in rear and 7/8 drop in front with my Steeda Boss 302 springs, Koni Yellow and Fays2 Watts link. Just got back from two and a half hours of track time and I can tell you the 2014 Vette that I was playing with saw no loss of traction either as he tried to stay with me 

I do not track my car and while there are plenty of cheaper and better handling options available ... I went with the Roush performance 1/2” drop suspension kit which suits me just fine for a daily driver in terms of improved overall handling, ride comfort and minimum drop. Sure would have been nice for my base model GT to come from the factory with this kit.
http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/mustang-suspension-50l-v8-2011-2014.html
http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/mustang-suspension-50l-v8-2011-2014.html
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