Track wheels and tires
#41
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1. Pump is on one side
2. Feeder line between the two saddles
3. Sending units on both sides
I haven't looked at the ford yet, but if it is a similar design, then the cheating bastige way to fix this is to add a second pump with sump where the non-pump sending unit is. Slosh is all but eliminated as the second pump won't drain fast enough for starvation to occur (in 99% of the cases).
Back to wheels: http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7806 They try a bunch of wheels on a 2011 GT /Brembo car. Believe it has the Enkie wheels and the required offset as well as some 'out of the box' trials.
#42
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I was closely following the Vorshlag thread, til he dumped NASA TT (quite understandable, though, given he was trying to do both autocross and TT). Asked him about the seats and airbag issues, and he's doing what I've basically done -- ignore the airbag light.
I might pick up his CC plates soon, the J&M ones I have transmit too much clunk, and the right side is super sticky, have to bang on it with a rubber mallet to get it to move.
You going to get the AST setup from them?
I might pick up his CC plates soon, the J&M ones I have transmit too much clunk, and the right side is super sticky, have to bang on it with a rubber mallet to get it to move.
You going to get the AST setup from them?
#43
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Yes. I will get ASTs and their plates... most likely towards the end of the season as my... uh, wallet... is a tad bit lighter right about now
I have run the Vorshlag plates on my M3 since Beta form (60k+ miles on them) and then never made a single noise. Largest bearings in the industry. I'll definitely be running them again on the Boss.
I have run the Vorshlag plates on my M3 since Beta form (60k+ miles on them) and then never made a single noise. Largest bearings in the industry. I'll definitely be running them again on the Boss.
#44
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You have to pay for them, or get a discounted rate at least, as they're your sponsor? Can you get others around you discounts (hint hint)?? They're a bit pricey.
#45
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I don't know about discount pricing on AST's as the dealers are pretty much told what they can sell them for.... but I might be able to finagle a group buy for the camber plates.
#46
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Originally Posted by JScheier
I don't know about discount pricing on AST's as the dealers are pretty much told what they can sell them for.... but I might be able to finagle a group buy for the camber plates.
#48
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Would definitely be in for a group buy. These are quite the step up from the MM plates from what I understand, but also $100+ more. I think they wouldn't be identical for the 05-09 and the 2011+ models, though.
Heard of the K-Mac? about the same price.
http://www.k-mac.com/pages/newprods/mustang/mustang.htm
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274
Heard of the K-Mac? about the same price.
http://www.k-mac.com/pages/newprods/mustang/mustang.htm
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274
#49
The 05-10 cars and 11+ cars have different spring diameters--so the mounts will be different for 11+ cars.
#50
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My understanding is the spring adapter plate can be swapped out one for the other, or to a full coilover setup down the road if desired? The strut shaft diameter is a different matter though, I think.
#51
Man the price on those K-Mac or Vorshlag plates is ridiculous
#53
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Huge difference. I've driven stock (0-.95) bolts (-1.7) and now with MM plates (-2.2) and without a doubt the cc plates are the best solution. Tire temps are even and so is wear. Turn-in is night and day.
I am curious how the Vorshlag plates are better than MM? I can get more camber than I am even using and have absolutely no noise from them.
I am curious how the Vorshlag plates are better than MM? I can get more camber than I am even using and have absolutely no noise from them.
#54
Not to mention the MM plates are only "somewhat" astronomically priced, by comparison.
#56
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Well, Vorshlag is just a cool name...K-Mac, sounds stoopeed, but it is Australian...
I don't know about the MM ones, but my J&M (admittedly the cheapest out there, back when I thought a 'budget' was something to follow, instead of ignore) are very sticky and difficult to move, even when fully loosened. All metal bearings, too, that tend to transmit alot of road grain and harshness.
I don't know about the MM ones, but my J&M (admittedly the cheapest out there, back when I thought a 'budget' was something to follow, instead of ignore) are very sticky and difficult to move, even when fully loosened. All metal bearings, too, that tend to transmit alot of road grain and harshness.
#57
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Here's Sam Strano's reply:
I can do 18x9.5 35 offset in Black. $365 each.... in fact my warehouse has them in stock.
So a bit more than the silver 18x9.5 he has advertised on his site.
www.stranoparts.com
I can do 18x9.5 35 offset in Black. $365 each.... in fact my warehouse has them in stock.
So a bit more than the silver 18x9.5 he has advertised on his site.
www.stranoparts.com
#58
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Huge difference. I've driven stock (0-.95) bolts (-1.7) and now with MM plates (-2.2) and without a doubt the cc plates are the best solution. Tire temps are even and so is wear. Turn-in is night and day.
I am curious how the Vorshlag plates are better than MM? I can get more camber than I am even using and have absolutely no noise from them.
I am curious how the Vorshlag plates are better than MM? I can get more camber than I am even using and have absolutely no noise from them.
Dave
#59
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I think the price discrepancy between MM / Vorshlag and the other brands are that MM & Vorshlag are designed by racers and race engineers for the track. They are designed to handle the abuse that track bred vehicles bear:
- Consider that a pothole strike can apply a load of 5000 lbs. Weaker bearings will be damaged. Plates designed for the track have bearings with much higher load ratings to handle this.
- Track plates will also lack rubber / urethane bushings as the added deflection negatively effects handling and geometry.
- Bump travel & Stack Height - most users will also be lowering their vehicle. For each inch of drop, you lose the same amount of suspension travel. Race plates will remedy this with reduced stack height resulting in the same (if not more) travel then when OEM.
#60
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Not sure if this has been mentioned, but the Vorshlag plates must be removed in order to change camber/caster. MM only requires loosening the 5 nuts and relieving the strut load.
Dave
Dave