2012-2013 BOSS 302

Top strut nut torque spec?

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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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Top strut nut torque spec?

I will be installing FRPP P springs, Whiteline LCA's, PHB, relo brackets, and GT500 hats tomorrow, however the only info I haven't been able to find is the torque spec for the strut nut that connects the hat to the strut. I wasn't sure if this was something specific to the Boss since the struts are different then a GT. Does anyone know if it is different and if so what it is?
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 05:05 PM
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48 ft/lb is what I show with a note NOT to use an impact wrench for installation.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Thank you, I saw the torque spec on the FR3 handling package was 46 ft/lb and for some reason I thought that was low. That seems to make sense though.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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I was told 46-50 by FRPP when I called.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:49 PM
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I used an impact on mine
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Paint mark the nut and use loctite. I had a couple back out last year.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Paint mark the nut and use loctite. I had a couple back out last year.
Good to know, not good to hear though, I will be using thread locker on all the bolts, I am also reusing the stock bolts since this would be the first time they have been taken off.

Last edited by Brandon302; Mar 6, 2013 at 08:26 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #8  
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Currently finding that the GT500 hats everyone suggests don't fit the Boss struts, anyone else had the same issue or just used the stock hats?
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
I used an impact on mine
Using an impact on adjustable dampers where the adjusting mechanism is on the shaft is bad ju-ju.

^says the person that has done it 100 times and only jacked up the adjusting mechanism on Koni's about 99 of them

Note: make sure to use a really, really good wrench on the hex portion of the shock... round that off (Konis) and the impact suddenly becomes your only option for removal (see above).
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JScheier
Using an impact on adjustable dampers where the adjusting mechanism is on the shaft is bad ju-ju.

^says the person that has done it 100 times and only jacked up the adjusting mechanism on Koni's about 99 of them

Note: make sure to use a really, really good wrench on the hex portion of the shock... round that off (Konis) and the impact suddenly becomes your only option for removal (see above).
I don't have the adjustables is it still bad?
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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I used an impact to put it on, hopefully no damaged. Ended up grinding out a 13/16 spark plug socket so I could fit a socket inside it. Was able to tighten down the strut this way.
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Lol.. I used impact. Car rides fine
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
I don't have the adjustables is it still bad?
You should always follow the manufacturer's instructions... but for the most part, using an impact on non-adjustable dampers is OK. Many adjustable dampers use a J-hook mechanism internally to make the adjustments... spinning the shaft with an impact can damage the J-hook causing imprecise or non-existent adjustments.

If you ever turned the **** on a single adjustable Koni and felt resistance, or the **** turning back, you've most likely damaged the internal adjuster.

Tokicos use a slightly different mechanism, but spinning the shaft can still lead to damage. From what I've seen, it's usually that you can't adjust into the upper range (4-5).
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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Good thing I left it on 5 for the fronts. Do they sell special tools for installing the rod nut?
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