Open question / comment to FORD / 2012 Laguna Seca / Boss 302 Cooling
11/28/11, 08:48 AM
#82
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Yes it does. I'm still all about the S so I decided to go with four pins. Now the next decision, gloss or flat. I was pretty convinced gloss was the way to go, but the flat ties into the grille/splitter colors.
11/28/11, 09:13 AM
#83
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flat......but only if you get the rear wing...... I think gloss would look good as well......
by the way I changed my mind and four pins look good on the Boss......you must have read my mind and thus decided to go that route......
Last edited by adam81; 11/28/11 at 09:17 AM.
11/28/11, 09:21 AM
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By the way, when I was talking to Paul he said they are working on a new rear wing. It will be somewhere between the Laguna Seca wing and the race wing. Since I already have the LS wing and do not have the LS front splitter, he thought I should just try that first after adding the hood. However, for those of you that have the front splitter, their new wing might be a good option to go with the hood.
11/28/11, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cloud9
I knew that
By the way, when I was talking to Paul he said they are working on a new rear wing. It will be somewhere between the Laguna Seca wing and the race wing. Since I already have the LS wing and do not have the LS front splitter, he thought I should just try that first after adding the hood. However, for those of you that have the front splitter, their new wing might be a good option to go with the hood.
By the way, when I was talking to Paul he said they are working on a new rear wing. It will be somewhere between the Laguna Seca wing and the race wing. Since I already have the LS wing and do not have the LS front splitter, he thought I should just try that first after adding the hood. However, for those of you that have the front splitter, their new wing might be a good option to go with the hood.
11/28/11, 02:02 PM
#86
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If you go with a flat black or matte black, the "flat/matte" is in the clear coat.
If you wash and wax the hood you will have to be careful not to polish or otherwise rub that area because if you do you will "shine" that part of the hood and lose the "flat/mate" finish.................
If you wash and wax the hood you will have to be careful not to polish or otherwise rub that area because if you do you will "shine" that part of the hood and lose the "flat/mate" finish.................
11/28/11, 06:15 PM
#87
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OK, did a little reading about overcooling engine oil and thought I'd share.
Some folks have noted FRPP has an air-to-oil cooler from the Boss 302S and it can be retrofitted to the street versions but that version doesn’t have a thermostat.
Kendall has stated he might offer a version of his air-to-oil cooler without a thermostat so it’s competitive on a cost basis with the Boss 302S kit.
But I ran into this from Tom Monroe’s, How to Rebuild Ford Engines.
So it looks like an oil temp thermostat is essential to engine longevity in a vehicle that's going to be driven in a wide range of ambient temps.
If over cooled the engine will experience; shorter bearing life, accelerated cylinder wall wear, and the increased probability of spinning rod bearings.
If the oil doesn’t’ get past the temperature of boiling water and staying there for a while, then the water that accumulates in the oil can't leave through the crankcase ventilation system.
So overcooling is just as bad overheating the oil……………….
Some folks have noted FRPP has an air-to-oil cooler from the Boss 302S and it can be retrofitted to the street versions but that version doesn’t have a thermostat.
Kendall has stated he might offer a version of his air-to-oil cooler without a thermostat so it’s competitive on a cost basis with the Boss 302S kit.
But I ran into this from Tom Monroe’s, How to Rebuild Ford Engines.
So it looks like an oil temp thermostat is essential to engine longevity in a vehicle that's going to be driven in a wide range of ambient temps.
If over cooled the engine will experience; shorter bearing life, accelerated cylinder wall wear, and the increased probability of spinning rod bearings.
If the oil doesn’t’ get past the temperature of boiling water and staying there for a while, then the water that accumulates in the oil can't leave through the crankcase ventilation system.
So overcooling is just as bad overheating the oil……………….
11/28/11, 11:30 PM
#88
Interesting info
1/13/12, 04:17 PM
#89
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I need some info.I w2ant to remove the grill in my LS. I removed the four plastic pins in the top but the unit will not release. Are their any other bolts or tricks I am missing. Thanks for the help.
1/13/12, 04:22 PM
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Remove all 8 plastic push pins and pull the radiator cover out of the way. Remove the 2 8mm? bolts, one on each end. You can now pull it away slightly from one side. There are two tabs on each side that you need to release to get the grille out. You will need to use something like a flat screwdriver to put pressure on the tabs to get them to release. Obviously need to be careful on the painted parts, but those tabs are concealed so not the end of the world if you scratch them. Once you release the two tabs on each side, the bottom tabs just pull straight out.
Last edited by cloud9; 1/14/12 at 08:44 AM.
1/14/12, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Jim,
Remove all 8 plastic push pins and pull the radiator cover out of the way. Remove the 2 8mm? bolts, one on each end. You can now pull it away slightly from one side. There are two tabs on each side that you need to release to get the grille out. You will need to use something like a flat screwdriver to put pressure on the tabs to get them to release. Obviously need to be careful on the painted parts, but those tabs are concealed so not the end of the world if you scratch them. Once you release the two tabs on each side, the bottom tabs just pull straight out.
Remove all 8 plastic push pins and pull the radiator cover out of the way. Remove the 2 8mm? bolts, one on each end. You can now pull it away slightly from one side. There are two tabs on each side that you need to release to get the grille out. You will need to use something like a flat screwdriver to put pressure on the tabs to get them to release. Obviously need to be careful on the painted parts, but those tabs are concealed so not the end of the world if you scratch them. Once you release the two tabs on each side, the bottom tabs just pull straight out.
You know the "rest of the story"
Should get it back in amour a week "good as new, like it came from the factory"
'ya just gotta have faith"..........
1/14/12, 09:44 PM
#94
https://themustangsource.com/f813/tr...5/#post6129086
6/11/12, 12:54 PM
#95
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Another simple solution for people that do not want to change hoods at the moment is to pull the weather stripping at the back of the hood. I pulled mine when I installed the new gillie and reduced temps 15-20 degrees. Outside temps were cooler then some of my other runs but I did see a difference. I will not know for sure until next summer when the heat returns but pulling the weather strip takes a couple of minutes and does provide some air flow, enough to make a difference? not sure yet.
6/11/12, 01:38 PM
#96
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I'm up at Road America today. With ambients in the mid 80s I was pushing 250*coolant and 240* oil. My air to oil cooler is in front. Then the d*** A/C condenser that has been totally mashed by rock, tires and bugs blocks virtually the entire radiator. I pulled the grille this last session and dropped down to a peak coolant temp of 240* with ambient up to 91*. I'm convinced the number one solution is pulling the A/C condenser because if you get airflow to the radiator, there is plenty of cooling capacity.
6/11/12, 01:40 PM
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I had my boss out at sebring on memorial day weekend with www.trackguys.com, it was a blast, and once i got a feel for the car and drove it hard I overheated it. I have been through this before my 07 gt500 on the road course.
Of course the 302s grill and tiger hoods were popular upgrades found on some of the 15 other bosses out there. I believe I saw the new wing the other user was talking about, slightly higher than an LS wing.
I took my grill out but did not like the hood flutter at 125mph.
My instructor would hit 285F and max out his oil temp gauge pretty quickly. My car easily ran 235F ECT around the track only being driven moderately hard.
I got my 2013 GT500, and what they have done to that car in terms of airflow and cooling is amazing. The grills are wide open top and bottom for max flow. They actually have a little flap of plastic at an angle to deflect air around the hood latch. The fan shroud has plastic flaps that open at high speed. Ford not only sealed off the front grill so all the air has to go through the radiator (they started doing a somewhat decent job of this in 2010) but they also placed the deflectors at the right angles to funnel air into the radiator, I guess that is whats needed at 200mph.
Its worth noting that ford has kept the same hood vent since 2010. I believe engine bay pressure is a big issue and can improve cooling, but it seems they couldn't justify changing it even on a 200mph car. They must optimize their pressure and airflow with the front splitter. I would imagine with the right cooling package that at some point speed becomes your best friend. Most of us are operating our cars at about half that though.
The 2013 fan shroud might be something that boss owners can do easily, and it is something that can actually be tested and quantified. I have a digitial datalogging manometer that i have used before to record engine bay pressure when testing a bellypan. It would be just as easy to test pressure in the fan shroud. Even though the boss and GT500 rads are a little bit different for the CAI tube, I would imagine the fan shrouds are the same. I will have to do some checking.
Of course the 302s grill and tiger hoods were popular upgrades found on some of the 15 other bosses out there. I believe I saw the new wing the other user was talking about, slightly higher than an LS wing.
I took my grill out but did not like the hood flutter at 125mph.
My instructor would hit 285F and max out his oil temp gauge pretty quickly. My car easily ran 235F ECT around the track only being driven moderately hard.
I got my 2013 GT500, and what they have done to that car in terms of airflow and cooling is amazing. The grills are wide open top and bottom for max flow. They actually have a little flap of plastic at an angle to deflect air around the hood latch. The fan shroud has plastic flaps that open at high speed. Ford not only sealed off the front grill so all the air has to go through the radiator (they started doing a somewhat decent job of this in 2010) but they also placed the deflectors at the right angles to funnel air into the radiator, I guess that is whats needed at 200mph.
Its worth noting that ford has kept the same hood vent since 2010. I believe engine bay pressure is a big issue and can improve cooling, but it seems they couldn't justify changing it even on a 200mph car. They must optimize their pressure and airflow with the front splitter. I would imagine with the right cooling package that at some point speed becomes your best friend. Most of us are operating our cars at about half that though.
The 2013 fan shroud might be something that boss owners can do easily, and it is something that can actually be tested and quantified. I have a digitial datalogging manometer that i have used before to record engine bay pressure when testing a bellypan. It would be just as easy to test pressure in the fan shroud. Even though the boss and GT500 rads are a little bit different for the CAI tube, I would imagine the fan shrouds are the same. I will have to do some checking.
Last edited by Justin00Stang; 6/11/12 at 02:13 PM.
6/11/12, 04:01 PM
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With the Cooltech oil cooler, TR hood, and less restrictive grill, I do not even come close to getting the car hot now, even on 45 minute sessions running very hard. I have run on 100+ days at Spring Mountain and my peak oil temp is right at 230.
