Hoisting Points
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Hoisting Points
So I finally have my 2 post lift installed and attempted in vein to hoist my LS today with no luck. Does anybody have a suggestion in regard to where to lift the car from? It looks like I need to come up with some sort of adaptor (4 of them) to fit the holes at the sides of the vehicle. Any suggestions?
#2
Bullitt Member
Assuming the underside is the same as my gt I put the liftpads on the frame right in front of the lca attachment in the rear and as far forward as the front arms would reach on the frame in the front, worked just fine.
#4
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Thread Starter
I will check it out now. I know my other vehicles have this welded seam but the LS doesnt seem to have it (its all plastic) and the side outlet exhaust pretty much takes up all the other possibilities. Thanks for the advice.
#5
Bullitt Member
Here is where I did mine (the red squares), granted I don't have the quad exhaust so i'm not sure how much they would be in the way in the rear by the LCA's. Also if this is not a good place to hoist from let me know so i don't break something lol
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alextorello (5/3/22)
#6
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Doesn't look like there is much room but I guess if I can deform the plastic a bit I should be able to lift at the seam???
LOL. You beat me to the punch. Thanks very much for clarifying.
LOL. You beat me to the punch. Thanks very much for clarifying.
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alextorello (5/3/22)
#7
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Originally Posted by 430 Scud
Doesn't look like there is much room but I guess if I can deform the plastic a bit I should be able to lift at the seam???
LOL. You beat me to the punch. Thanks very much for clarifying.
LOL. You beat me to the punch. Thanks very much for clarifying.
#9
Bullitt Member
Thanks for the info, Ill try and see if they reach there. With the arms fully extended they reach about the front red squares when the car is centered on the hoist. Don't want to go too far off center. I don't put my jacks there, I do that at the pinch weld, only the pads for the lift.
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; 12/1/11 at 02:33 PM.
#10
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It makes me unsure of how strong that square 'tubing' is so I always spread the pain by using a 2x6 on top of the jack if I lift there.
#11
Bullitt Member
Gotcha. It always suprises me the pinch weld is strong enough (though an older car the pinch weld bent back about 20degs at the jack point over time).
It makes me unsure of how strong that square 'tubing' is so I always spread the pain by using a 2x6 on top of the jack if I lift there.
It makes me unsure of how strong that square 'tubing' is so I always spread the pain by using a 2x6 on top of the jack if I lift there.
#12
Bullitt Member
When lifting my Boss on my Rotary two post, I use prothane jack pads on each pad. They are little rubber pucks. With the rear arms outside the car, I rotate the rear lifting pads just in front of the side exhaust on the pinch weld and in the front I put the pads on the rear portion of the front subframe (k frame). Works good. I like using the rubber pucks as it protects the finish of the car.
#13
Don't lift by the rear K member bolts. That part of the under body is very weak and where the K member bolts will eventually bend upward. You want to lift by the rockers. They make special pads with a split in it to lift around the seam. And on many Mustang race cars they weld in a jack strip it is a piece of metal welded on over the seam under the rockers. You can see it done in that video about race prepping the white Saleen that ran second in the championship this year. I made some aluminum pieces for my hoist. They are rods with a split for the seam. This is not the best picture but you can see the aluminum on the left front corner and right rear corner.
Last edited by 908ssp; 12/1/11 at 10:03 PM.
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