CO_VaporGT_09

Cool! Thanks for posting those, though they leave me a bit confused. Are those front/rear, or vice versa? They should all be higher for the front, but some appear backwards.

Here's from a prior thread:


Stock Front: 136.5 lb (wheel rate of 170.7 lb)
Stock Rear: 142.2 lb (wheel rate of 170.7 lb)

Steeda Sport Front: 200 lb linear
Steeda Sport Rear: 175 lb linear

Steeda Comp Front: 225 lb linear
Steeda Comp Rear: 185 lb linear

Eibach Pro Kit Front: 171-230 progressive
Eibach Pro Kit Rear: 110-200 progressive

BMR SP009 Front: 120-165 lb progressive
BMR Sp009 Rear: 130 lb linear


Vogtlands:
http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=s...id=1&sub_id=44

2005-Pres. Ford Mustang GT S197 #VOG 950084
Front 180 lb./in. - 240 lb./in. drop 1.3" or 35mm
Rear 180 lb./in. - 220 lb./in. drop 1.3" or 35mm

2007-Pres. Ford Mustang GT500 #VOG 953094
Front 152 lb./in. - 250 lb./in. drop 1.2" or 30mm
Rear 121 lb./in. - 225 lb./in. drop 1.2" or 30mm

2005-Pres Ford Mustang GT Leveling Spring Kit #VOG 953094
Front 152 lb./in. - 250 lb./in. drop .8" or 20mm
Rear 121 lb./in. - 225 lb./in. drop 1.2" or 30mm

The Beast

Where the headlights are, is that anything functional? The two circles below?

Zoldier

Those should all be front/rear. I noticed how some look swapped also but didnt look into it much.

If you're talking about the circles at the bottom they are for the brake cooling kit that comes with the LS.

MJockey

Eddie, how do you like the way the Boss handles now? Based on the spring rates you posted above, when you change your springs to Steeda Sports, the car may loose some of it's sharp turn in response and take on a more understeer balance. Assuming you change nothing else. Let us know if that happens.

Quote from a setup guide:

Quote:

j) Springs




The springs are what hold the car off the ground. The relative stiffness of a spring is based on the amount of force needed to compress the spring one inch. Thus a 900 lb. spring is stiffer than an 800 lb. spring. Quite literally, every bit of feedback that a driver senses from the road’s surface comes through the springs. Changing the springs in the car is one of the most powerful tools available.

Front:
Stiffer: Stabilizes the car and shifts the handling balance toward UNDERsteer. The compromise is less compliance.

Softer: Adds a significant amount of front grip. The compromise is a less stable car.

Rear:
Stiffer: Reduces UNDERsteer, particularly at mid‐corner and exit. The compromise is less compliance in the rear and less grip.

Quote:

Softer: Adds rear grip and shifts the balance to UNDERsteer.

2012YellowBoss

Exactly when did this site change from "where's my car" to useful infomation??? I missed that day, I guess all the whiners have their cars now, dam Q1 people

MJockey

LOL, funny how that happens.

Zoldier

So I just got the springs and the air filter on. It looks a lot better and rides nice. I took a nice curvy road and it handled great. Wish I would of driven it prior to the swap so I could compare. From the short drive it feels a little smoother. I would of liked it a bit stiffer but I think its good for now since I'm going to Italy and wont be tracking for about three years anyways. Now the pics.

Springs installed:


Stock Springs:


Air filter:


I removed the rear mud flap thinggy and the rear brake dust shields as the track prep guide says.

Just stick a 10mm wrench in and you can get the three bolts out


Didnt line up so well without the flap

Front spring difference


I also painted the mufflers black

5 DOT 0

It looks great lowered. Just to confirm you used Steeda Sports front and rear?

2012YellowBoss

Looks good Eddie, it would have been nice to hear what you thought if you had the chance to track it before and after. With my limited knowledge I am afraid to go after the suspension.

When you say it is smoother and you would like it to be a bit stiffer, are you getting any body roll in the turns now?

Zoldier

Yes, Steeda sports front and rear.

I'm just used to stiff suspension from my last car. I had fully adjustable coilovers and when I got the BOSS it felt pretty solid too. I cant say it feels much different since I just went around the block. When I drive to work tomorrow I'll let you know since I'm more familiar with those roads and how stiff the car felt stock. I didnt feel much body roll at all. From the five minute drive I took it felt like a great comprimise for street/track.

cloud9

Where are the instructions to remove the rear mud flaps?

CO_VaporGT_09

That is rather interesting -- airflow change, or does it actually affect the brake cooling?


Sam Strano (suspension guru) had mentioned the Ford boys really made some odd decisions with the Boss, like using an intentionally binding front sway bar, and mismatched spring rates, to achieve their handling goals. Stuff he didn't like or promote at all -- I think because it was tuned very much to particular tires, wheels, etc, and not necessarily easily translated or transferred to other setups.
The spring rates quoted above must be what he was talking about, as they obviously don't follow the pattern of every other spring maker out there (including FRPP, which I believe uses Eibach springs).
It'd be interesting to see if he's weighed in on this issue about the Boss yet.

5 DOT 0

The stock suspension seems to work very well for a street/track car so I won't be lowering mine until there is more definitive information on how lowering the Boss affects handling. I do appreciate Eddie taking the first stab at this.

Zoldier

I posted it here.

https://themustangsource.com/f813/bo...ration-494039/

I'll keep you guys posted on the handling. I have two autocross events coming up and I'm going to hit up a nice curvy back road this weekend. I'll get it on vid just for fun. This step was just an erge to get rid of the 4x4 look. It was the first thing I did to my 2000 GT also.

I eventually want to run full coilovers when I am able to track it more. I'm a huge fan of KW and want to run their clubsport setup.

12C/OBoss

You are supposed to remove the rear air spoilers at the rear of the "rocker" panels, which are in front of the rear tires. The mudflaps are at the rear of the tires. The spoilers are the little flaps "under" the rocker panels. That's why the rear bumper doesn't fit right after you removed them after removing the air spoilers they won't affect any body fitment...but removing the mudflaps will sure hammer the bumper paint with rockchips!!

From the post you quoted:
Remove vertical rear tire spoilers at rear edge of rocker moldings.



Andy

Zoldier

LOL. WTH. I hadnt read it in since I got the car a month ago and thats all I thought about while I was looking at it. Now I gotta go see what I was suppose to take off. **** it.

CO_VaporGT_09

You're right! That's funny, though understandable -- the mud flaps are vertical, after all. I have the same style as you guys, and my rear bumper still has plenty of tire marks all over.

Those little flaps in front of the rear tires, though, must hamper the brake cooling, but my guess is they help with airflow and reduce noise more than anything else.

As far as the comment on changing springs messing up the Boss, it's not any different than any other Mustang ultimately, and should respond to the same basic suspension mods, unless of course as mentioned above the designed in binding of the front (and rear?) AR bar is matched to the rather low rate front springs. I anticipate most people serious about tracking the Boss will do what everyone else has with their Mustangs -- lowering springs, adjustable AR bars front and rear, and adjustable PHB.

The KW clubsport look great, but also consider the ASTs. Have y'all read the Vorshlag thread?

http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showt...?t=7806&page=6

5 DOT 0

I wonder what happens if you don't remove them?

5 DOT 0

Nice read, thanks for positing. Do you know what springs they use?

cloud9

Interesting. That was added later because the Supplement I had saved on my computer didn't include that step. I haven't looked at the one that came with the car but it is probably this revised one you posted.