Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
Meanmud, I have been looking into the pad offerings and considered your post recommendation of the Raybestos pads, along with Hawk and PFC. My selection criteria was based on the following: I have dedicated DBA rotors for track use, 4-6 track events per year and I want to drive the car to most track events which means I need cold temperature brake effectiveness.
I called and talked to all three brake pad manufacturers for their suggestions based on the above.
Raybestos ST43 front (~$258) and rear (~$195).
PFC-01 front (~$300) they do not make a rear in the -01 compound would have to go to a PFC-97 compound (~$165)
Hawk DTC-30 front (~$165) and HP+ rear (~$95)
Based on other comments about the Hawk pads, I will start with their offerings and see how they work. I certainly do not see a price advantage to using the PFC-01's as others have offered. Perhaps I am just not looking at the correct supplier. Anyway the DTC-30's have a suggested operating temprature range of 100-1200F which appears to cover both low and high temperature regimes. Hawk rep stated they would be ok for driving to the track just possibly noisy and dusty which I can accept with the purpose application.
I called and talked to all three brake pad manufacturers for their suggestions based on the above.
Raybestos ST43 front (~$258) and rear (~$195).
PFC-01 front (~$300) they do not make a rear in the -01 compound would have to go to a PFC-97 compound (~$165)
Hawk DTC-30 front (~$165) and HP+ rear (~$95)
Based on other comments about the Hawk pads, I will start with their offerings and see how they work. I certainly do not see a price advantage to using the PFC-01's as others have offered. Perhaps I am just not looking at the correct supplier. Anyway the DTC-30's have a suggested operating temprature range of 100-1200F which appears to cover both low and high temperature regimes. Hawk rep stated they would be ok for driving to the track just possibly noisy and dusty which I can accept with the purpose application.
Bullitt Member
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From: Midwest
06GT- I shall see how the DTC30's hold up. I gave the Hawk technical specialist all the car particulars and that was the recommendation. I would think they would know their product and its limitations. I specifically drew attention to the dirt track recommendation on their website and he said not to worry. I am not a 10/10 driver and have much to grow into the car's inate handling ability. I will keep an eye out on the rotor tempatures (paint stripes) and pad wear. Thanks for your heads up.
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Shelby GT350 Member
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
I lit up a set of rear Stillen Metal Matrix pads like a Cuban cigar when I first got my GT500, so I'm leery. I'll still run my Hawk DTC-60s out back since they last a long time and at $150 shipped for a set, they don't exactly break the bank.
Last edited by cloud9; Jul 19, 2011 at 09:14 AM.
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Shelby GT350 Member
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
I agree with you. And have noted exactly the same OE caliper and rotor on the race car pictures which show the brake assemblies. I got a very good deal on the DBA rotors and decided to have a dedicated set both front and rear for the track each with its own associated pad. Probably overkill for the rears, I agree.
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
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I think the biggest savings from the FR comment is the stock rotors which are very inexpensive.
Cobra Member
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I did the full rotor/pad swap-out at the track in the garage after our most recent weekend, took several hours (maybe I'm really slow??), but it was done and car ready to drive on the street the next day. Made the drive home less noisy, and much less dust all over the street wheels, too. It is a pain in the butt, though. If you're doing just pads all around, the rears are the holdup, and it's only a couple extra minutes to remove the caliper and swap the discs.
Last edited by CO_VaporGT_09; Jul 19, 2011 at 11:15 AM.
Yep. Huge PITA
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Shelby GT350 Member
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It's actually really easy with the tool from Harbor Freight.http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piec...kit-97143.html
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Shelby GT350 Member
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
I did the full rotor/pad swap-out at the track in the garage after our most recent weekend, took several hours (maybe I'm really slow??), but it was done and car ready to drive on the street the next day. Made the drive home less noisy, and much less dust all over the street wheels, too. It is a pain in the butt, though. If you're doing just pads all around, the rears are the holdup, and it's only a couple extra minutes to remove the caliper and swap the discs.
I have it down to 1:45 for wheels, rotors, pads and shock settings. That's even putting some anti-seize on the inside of the hats when needed.
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From: Parker, Colorado
Cobra R Member
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CJ carries the Power Slot Power Alloy Rotor but not the heat treated, I hope they get them in the future since tire rack charged me $80 shipping for my setup.
Anyone that will track just a day here and there the factory setup does work well with a fluid upgrade.
Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; Jul 19, 2011 at 05:07 PM.
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
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That is good info Rick thanks. I swaped out pads and rotors for track use mainly to save the fresh originals for the street when needed. So far the Power Slot Power Alloy Cryo-Treated Rotor are holding up very well with the Hawk pads. I have a few days on them now and plan at least 2-3 days at Palm Beach and one more at Sebring before Daytona. I am guessing they will hold on until then. The price is right at $106 each, just too bad they don't have the fronts to match.
CJ carries the Power Slot Power Alloy Rotor but not the heat treated, I hope they get them in the future since tire rack charged me $80 shipping for my setup.
Anyone that will track just a day here and there the factory setup does work well with a fluid upgrade.
CJ carries the Power Slot Power Alloy Rotor but not the heat treated, I hope they get them in the future since tire rack charged me $80 shipping for my setup.
Anyone that will track just a day here and there the factory setup does work well with a fluid upgrade.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/brake-rot...5-2010/p/BR28/
Cobra R Member
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That is pretty cheap, I thought when I did it I had to stay with the slotted rotors since I did the front with them. Since then I was told that is not needed. Live and learn.
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Shelby GT350 Member
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
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