BOSS parts in the 2011 FRP catalog
2/4/11, 04:20 PM
#121
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Slightly better price for the gauge pod
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6304GPACKMA/2010-12-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Boss-302-Gauge-Pack
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6304GPACKMA/2010-12-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Boss-302-Gauge-Pack
2/4/11, 04:30 PM
#122
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Anyone know if the gauge pack will be plug and play?
Last edited by 5 DOT 0; 2/4/11 at 04:34 PM.
2/4/11, 06:03 PM
#128
I think the mats would look good with the same logo that is on the seats place on the mats high or low like this. The color could match the car, red for LS and red cars, blue, white, yellow and orange.
Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; 6/25/11 at 11:44 PM.
2/4/11, 08:06 PM
#130
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2/4/11, 08:23 PM
#131
I'd like to see a plug & play type harness, but I don't think that'll be the case.
2/5/11, 06:51 AM
#132
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I could be totally wrong about this though.
2/5/11, 09:11 AM
#133
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Frankly, the gauge pack from Ford doesn't even look like it belongs in the place where they have it on the top of the dash. It looks after-market at best. I will still be looking for an A/C pod holder for an Aeroforce gauge, or if it's not visible to the left of the steering wheel, I might have to break down and go 'A' pillar.
2/5/11, 09:12 AM
#134
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That's the way it is on my GT500. To Berol's question, I think it's the signal. According to Aeroforce, to get oil pressure readings, you have to install a pressure sensor. Obviously there's some type of signal going to the stock on/off gauge, but may not provide an actaul reading no matter what gauge is used.
Last edited by cloud9; 2/5/11 at 09:14 AM.
2/5/11, 09:42 AM
#135
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This is how I know:
Last edited by OAC_Sparky; 3/14/11 at 07:54 AM.
2/5/11, 09:50 AM
#136
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By the way, I'll repeat what I have to say about the gauge:
I would be interested in the pod itself but not really the DPIC. I have one in my car and it's a pain in the ***; it's basically an accelerometer and timer that computes 0-60 times, 60-0 times, HP, etc. But when you're not using it it doesn't self-calibrate, and is an annoying distraction blinking and flashing at you. Trust me, I have it in a pillar pod and it wore out its welcome inside of two weeks after the gee-whiz factor wore off. I bought it to compliment a programmable shift light, my car only has double gauge pods available so I had to choose a second gauge. Big mistake. If I could extract the DPIC cleanly without wrecking the paint job on the pod I'd have done it by now.
That said, the gauge itself CAN be useful -- my advice though is to buy the Autometer windshield mount cup for it http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=186 and put it away when you're not using it.
That said, the gauge itself CAN be useful -- my advice though is to buy the Autometer windshield mount cup for it http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=186 and put it away when you're not using it.
2/5/11, 10:57 AM
#137
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The "performance guage" actually is the easiest of all of the guages to hook up. It's only an Autometer D-PIC with a Ford Racing logo on it. It does NOT hook into the OBD system, all it needs is +, -. and a tap for the dashlights so that the display dims when you turn the lights on.
This is how I know:
This is how I know:
2/5/11, 11:06 AM
#138
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Here's a pic. It will display everything and more that the FRPP gauge pack will along with a shift light. Unfortunately with the rectangular a/c vents in the center console it would have to be in the vent on the left of the wheel, A pillar, or in a dash gauge pod just like the FRPP. I prefer the stealth of the A/C vent as my GT500 is a total sleeper. All the mods were made for performance and not cosmetics.
The GPS lap timer to the right of it is only in for track days so it's not direct wired and uses the 12v accessory port for power.
The GPS lap timer to the right of it is only in for track days so it's not direct wired and uses the 12v accessory port for power.
Last edited by cloud9; 2/5/11 at 11:09 AM.
2/5/11, 03:17 PM
#140
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It is basically longitudinal (front-back) and lateral (side-side) accelerometers and a calculator.
Basically, acceleration is the key. Acceleration will give you a "G" or "gee" reading, one "G" being 10m/s^2, Add a timer to this, sustain an acceleration over a peroid of time and you get a velocity. Sustain a velocity over time and you get distance.
So basically, what the meter does is when you put it into a mode, say, quarter mile time, it gives you a countdown/light tree and when it tells you "GO!" starts a stopwatch. It monitors the accelerometers, figures your speed out at any given point until it calculates that you've travelled 1/4 mile. Same with 0-60, 60-0, punch in your vehicle weight and it estimates the horespower to the ground.
Is it perfect? No. But it's pretty close.