Sounds like that is a nightmare...

 

Actually I was very happy with the way it was handled with State Farm. I just hurt my left shoulder when it hit the window, which needed a couple months too heal. And I was very lucky in she hit my driver side front tire area. A few feet further back and it would have been a lot worse. About $8000 in damage to my car and her car was totaled. Also the collision shop could not believe how quickly Progressive got the check to them to cover my deductible. They hand delivered it. They were probably just hoping I did not sue.

 

State Farm has managed to go from the best and cheapest(if you had good record) to the sleaziest,bait and switch,crooks.They always quote a decent price and will continuously jack up your rate for no reason but corporate greed.
They suck. I now have Geico,at least you get to deal with the actual co,not some uniformed, parasitic agent.

 

This is true, but SF also tells the body shop to find used parts if they can, which doesn't necessarily mean that the aftermarket new is worse than OEM used. My body shop is currently trying to source a used door to put on my car, and you have no say when the insurance company is paying the bill. A used door doesn't bother me personally, but it might bother some people. They're going to paint the whole thing, inside and out, anyways so it doesn't matter to me, as long as it's a Ford part.

That said, my SF Claims agents have been complete waste. They determined I was 100% at fault for the cause of the accident, though the other driver committed an unsafe lane change and failed to stop or avoid me as I was going back into the other lane. His insurance, All State, was very pleasant to deal with. They even said it might be a shared liability, if only 70-30, still mostly my fault. I would've been okay with that, as it wouldn't have raised my premium as much, but SF (my carrier) completely put me at fault so why would his insurance argue with that? I can't wait to see what my premium goes up to now that I'll be losing my "good/safe driver" discount

 

I called my State Farm agent and complained. Rate hikes with no accidents on record. I said at 50 and a clean record they should find a way to discount the cost. Plus lower miles each year and NO tickets. I got discounted a couple weeks later. I still think about looking around though.

 

that was one of the main reasons I stopped driving for a while and closed with SF, they kept acking up my rates then when I would call to get them back to low rates and "reapply" for my discounts they would nearly argue how its there policy to have people reapply for the discounts, I am sorry I should NOT have to reapply each month for MY discounts when I barely drive as is and have a older truck that is usually a lot less to insure AND it stays in a garage/enclosed parking area...WTH come one people! STOP jacking me around by the ***** please....oh and on top of that they wanted to say I was at fault and pay out another claim which I had picture evidence to show that there was superficial damage if any at all...

 

True, but I dont see how they could not provide him insurance for "bad credit" as he said its at 730. Shouldn't they just provide him with a little higher quote then a person with good credit, I have never heard of anyone say that they got turned down by insurance company without even a quote.

 

That is true...and I agree. Probably more to the story. My credit is around there too, but j still have dings on my report from having "too much debt" (i.e. my car lol) and "delinquent accounts" which is bs stemming from a pos credit card company that "lost" my payments for 3 months and never told me, even though the money was drafted out of my checking account and my bank verified this with them over the phone. The company told me it would be removed from my report, but somehow it still shows up. That said, I was able to get my loan at 4.25%, first time buyer with no cosigner, so I think I still did pretty well...

 

I can't figure out how they calculate credit ratings. When I got the Mustang, I took a 72 mo. note @ a prefered 2.34% because my rating was over 740. At the time I had a crapload of credit cards, a mortage, and a lease on my DD Fusion...still do.

A month later I paid off my mortgage and my biggest credit card. I just recently requested a limit increase and was denied since my rating dropped to 700 because I had too much debt!!!! I had more debt when I got the Mustang and I still got a loan at under 2.4%!!!!!

I blame it all on Democrats.

 

Same happened to me. Credit went down even though all my cards paid off any only the car loan

 

A bit strange for sure.... It was a mailer form them. Filled it out and sent it in. I really was not interested. Been a USAA member for 30 years. Wife wanted a change or to look into a change. Letter came a week later. Wife has not bothered me again about it....

USAA cheaper and better than most. No desire

Nope not drunk. I have no clue why they would reject me on the basis of credit.... Just not interested enough to care if they can't get it right the first time. I have heard bad USAA stories but they have never done me wrong.

 

Michigan also allows insurance companies to adjust rates based on credit (we have some of the highest insurance rates, it's absurd). It's complete crap, and I'm fairly sure everyone involved knows it...but I guess they'll do whatever they can to make another buck.

As far as credit scores are concerned, ponder this: a few years ago I ran into a bunch of money issues and ended up with a foreclosure and a couple defaulted credit cards. Before all this, when I bought the house (at age 21), my credit score was 620. No negative issues, only reason for the score was that I was so young and had almost no history (despite having accounts open since 18).

Right now, with the foreclosure and a handful of defaults on my record (and with NO currently open accounts) my score is a 630. How the hell does that work?

 

It's all a bunch of bs. All of it.

 

It's gotta be. The formula to figure this stuff out is in no way based in reality. It just seems like a ruse at this point.

Gotta make sure we're all good little consumers I guess...

 

Is there even a true formula? Most places that need credit checks go through 2 or 3 different places, that all have (sometimes significantly) different numbers.

 

I have State Farm. I have the, 'less than 6,000 miles per year' discount. I hit 130mph on the interstate the other day, i'm glad i don't have the tracker crap

 

Nationwide offered me the same thing, I told them that if I had that in my car, they would end up canceling my insurance all together.

 

I am not willing to share my data either (at least where I have a say). Big Brother & Big Corp has enough power over us lowly souls as it is. It will only be used against you.

Or am I just paranoid...

 

I'd love to take one of those "sapshot" devices to the track with me. 135+MPH, full 1G threshold braking, full throttle for multiple gears etc, .95g cornering. Then send it back to them and see what they say

 

That was my thought. Sure, if you only use your vehicle for A-B travel and not for recreation, then go ahead. But as soon as you do any spirited driving, road course, autocross, or offroading then these devices could be more of a headache than they are worth.