I've had my car for... two days now, and more than once I've noticed that I'd be grooving along to something with a nice bass line and the sub seems to shut off, just momentarily, then turn itself back on. Like say, the bass kick was on the 2 and 4 in 4/4 timing, every once in a while the sub would not be present at all on the 2 or come in late like it was being turned on after the fact.

I know it's not all the time, or at least it's less noticeable @ lower volumes where the sub isn't actually doing much of anything and the front drivers are carrying the load.

Terrible song to compare, but an old hit from the 90's "Make Em Say Ugh" (who remembers that!) came on Shade 45 today on Sirius, and I had to turn it up, and I noticed the sub kept going out or something, but I know that's a low boomy song. (don't crucify, I listen to everything)

Is this a known issue or do I need to take it into the dealership?

 

i think you just made your sub say ugh...



...Na-nah na-nah

 

I paid more attentiOn to it today. Acting up at lower volumes too.

 

Oh cool, now I have electrical based smoke from my trunk.

 

and now a completely dead/blown subwoofer. awesome.

 

It's actually better since it's failed completely. Getting dealers to recognize intermittent issues like you were having can be a nightmare. I've been the victim of "unable to duplicate customer concern" on more than one occasion.

It sounds like the amplifier had some thermal issues (probably power transistors) and finally decided to burn up completely.

I hope they get your sub replaced pretty quickly. That has to suck driving around with no bass.

 

Problem is I start vacation tomorrow morning, so I won't be fixed for two and a half weeks. At least the 8s in the doors are still thumping. Do they run off a different amp? If so... Couldn't I replace the stock rear amp for one that I have laying around from my old car's stereo that puts out significantly more power? Furthermore, I could then run a better sub in the stock box too?

 

Dr. Mick says listen to the Allman Brothers and ZZ Top, and call me in the morning.

 

The amp should be mounted to the sub enclosure on a bracket. You could change it for an aftermarket amp. If you want something more powerful, you're almost certainly going to need to home run a bigger wire from the battery. As for what subs would fit in the box, I'm not sure. They're supposed to be 10s, but I'd pull one out and measure it to make sure it's a standard size and that you have the depth available for standard 10" models. You may have to go for the slim model subs. Also, make sure you get an amp with speaker level inputs or you'll have to get a converter too.


Here's the wiring diagram from the 2012 and back models: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=710&viewfil...Navigation.pdf

Unless they've changed anything on the pro from the 1000, The positive input wire should be brown with blue stripe and negative should be white with blue stripe. The power wire is green with red stripe and the ground is black. You can ignore mute with an aftermarket amp. I can't find a diagram for the 2013 models, though. Assuming it's changed, you should be able to figure out which wires are the input wires on the amp harness with an o-scope and just poke around the harness looking for the audio pattern. If you are going to use the factory power wire, you'll have to find an amp that requires less than 30 amps since that's all the factory wire is rated for. That's gonna limit you to about 250 watts RMS. A good amp that would work is the Kicker 11DX250.1 with the line in adapter . Here's the adapter: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SL-09ZISL.html If you get that amp, make sure you total impedance is 2 ohms since it only makes 140 watts at 4 ohms. So, if you get 2-10" subs, get 4 ohm models and wire them in parallel.

Good luck, and post some pictures if you decide to go for it.

 

Maybe in a few years if This keeps happening. With 300 on the odometer, I should at least use the warranty.

 

bringing this back from the dead. how is there no remote wire for the amp back there?

getting ready to ditch my stock amp for an aftermarket, and I'm disappointed to see that there is little wiring that I can reuse, realistically.