2012 5.0,lots of smoke cylinder 8 misfire.
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From: New York
No, never sprayed it and no spirited driving that day...
Thanks guys for your input.
BRENSPEED says its a motor issue and NOT THE TUNE.
One of my friends who use to work for Ford says that he can hook it up to his computer and read the tune for me. What info do you guys want to know that may give us a better understanding of the issue?
Would thisMMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0 solve the cyliinder 8 issue for good?
Thanks guys for your input.
BRENSPEED says its a motor issue and NOT THE TUNE.
One of my friends who use to work for Ford says that he can hook it up to his computer and read the tune for me. What info do you guys want to know that may give us a better understanding of the issue?
Would thisMMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0 solve the cyliinder 8 issue for good?
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From: RICHMOND VA
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From: RICHMOND VA
If the guy can really look at the factory ford tune, have him check if the stock calibration is doing anything funky with cylinder #8 anywhere in the RPM range, specifically up top. Might shed some light on if there IS a flaw and ford is trying to mask it through their tuning procedures.
He's going to try and read the Brenspeed tune and I'll ask him to try and read the Ford. I'll keep you guys posted thanks.
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Originally Posted by unas2k5
HAS ANYONE LINKED OR SEEN A LINK TO THIS THREAD AT ANOTHER FORUM? I HEARD THERE WAS AND THERE WAS INPUT FROM BRENSPEED ON MY SPECIFIC ISSUE.
Can you please link me?
Can you please link me?
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
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Copied from S197 forum, this is what Brenspeed posted-
This is actually the 3rd customer who has contacted us about this issue. 3rd customer in the last year and of those 3 we have probably sent out atleast 500-600 2011 5.0 tunes. The first customer of ours who blew a number 8 the Ford engineer covered it under warranty due to an oil squirter failing, the second (who i believe is a member on here) broke a rod bearing (split in half) and the third customer is this customer who you are reading about and the car hasnt been to the dealer to diagnose the issue. We have also heard of long tube headers causing this issue as well, which i find it very hard to believe, but again there are no facts, just speculation. The funny thing is that everyone is blaming the tune, but this is an ongoing issue (according to our local ford dealer) on the FORD tech forums and there is a lot of finger pointing going on. You all are just hearing about cars with tunes having these #8 issues on forums, but if you look at the facts 90% of the 5.0 customers on forums have their cars modified and are running tunes. These issues are happening on FRPP tunes as well as 100% stock cars, so its very hard to place the blame on the tune. All of the cars that we have heard about having this issue have been EARLY production cars, but who's to say that has anything to do with it, because we dont know the facts and probably never will. We have been running our most aggressive Race tune (more aggressive than we send out to customers) on our 2011 test car for the last 16k miles (on 93 pump gas) and have raced it at nearly all NMRA events and definitely a LOT of spirited driving and abuse (naturally aspirated and with over 600rwhp to the wheels with a Vortech). We also have 2 other 2011-2012 in house test cars with ZERO issues as well. Ford's OEM calibration has parameters in place to protect the engine and we DO NOT remove these calibrations or alter the parameters. If anyone has any concerns or questions feel free to call me anytime. I can be reached directly at 574.594.9559 ext 3.
Thanks,
Chandler
This is actually the 3rd customer who has contacted us about this issue. 3rd customer in the last year and of those 3 we have probably sent out atleast 500-600 2011 5.0 tunes. The first customer of ours who blew a number 8 the Ford engineer covered it under warranty due to an oil squirter failing, the second (who i believe is a member on here) broke a rod bearing (split in half) and the third customer is this customer who you are reading about and the car hasnt been to the dealer to diagnose the issue. We have also heard of long tube headers causing this issue as well, which i find it very hard to believe, but again there are no facts, just speculation. The funny thing is that everyone is blaming the tune, but this is an ongoing issue (according to our local ford dealer) on the FORD tech forums and there is a lot of finger pointing going on. You all are just hearing about cars with tunes having these #8 issues on forums, but if you look at the facts 90% of the 5.0 customers on forums have their cars modified and are running tunes. These issues are happening on FRPP tunes as well as 100% stock cars, so its very hard to place the blame on the tune. All of the cars that we have heard about having this issue have been EARLY production cars, but who's to say that has anything to do with it, because we dont know the facts and probably never will. We have been running our most aggressive Race tune (more aggressive than we send out to customers) on our 2011 test car for the last 16k miles (on 93 pump gas) and have raced it at nearly all NMRA events and definitely a LOT of spirited driving and abuse (naturally aspirated and with over 600rwhp to the wheels with a Vortech). We also have 2 other 2011-2012 in house test cars with ZERO issues as well. Ford's OEM calibration has parameters in place to protect the engine and we DO NOT remove these calibrations or alter the parameters. If anyone has any concerns or questions feel free to call me anytime. I can be reached directly at 574.594.9559 ext 3.
Thanks,
Chandler
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From: RICHMOND VA
Originally Posted by DetTigers
Copied from S197 forum, this is what Brenspeed posted-
This is actually the 3rd customer who has contacted us about this issue. 3rd customer in the last year and of those 3 we have probably sent out atleast 500-600 2011 5.0 tunes. The first customer of ours who blew a number 8 the Ford engineer covered it under warranty due to an oil squirter failing, the second (who i believe is a member on here) broke a rod bearing (split in half) and the third customer is this customer who you are reading about and the car hasnt been to the dealer to diagnose the issue. We have also heard of long tube headers causing this issue as well, which i find it very hard to believe, but again there are no facts, just speculation. The funny thing is that everyone is blaming the tune, but this is an ongoing issue (according to our local ford dealer) on the FORD tech forums and there is a lot of finger pointing going on. You all are just hearing about cars with tunes having these #8 issues on forums, but if you look at the facts 90% of the 5.0 customers on forums have their cars modified and are running tunes. These issues are happening on FRPP tunes as well as 100% stock cars, so its very hard to place the blame on the tune. All of the cars that we have heard about having this issue have been EARLY production cars, but who's to say that has anything to do with it, because we dont know the facts and probably never will. We have been running our most aggressive Race tune (more aggressive than we send out to customers) on our 2011 test car for the last 16k miles (on 93 pump gas) and have raced it at nearly all NMRA events and definitely a LOT of spirited driving and abuse (naturally aspirated and with over 600rwhp to the wheels with a Vortech). We also have 2 other 2011-2012 in house test cars with ZERO issues as well. Ford's OEM calibration has parameters in place to protect the engine and we DO NOT remove these calibrations or alter the parameters. If anyone has any concerns or questions feel free to call me anytime. I can be reached directly at 574.594.9559 ext 3.
Thanks,
Chandler
This is actually the 3rd customer who has contacted us about this issue. 3rd customer in the last year and of those 3 we have probably sent out atleast 500-600 2011 5.0 tunes. The first customer of ours who blew a number 8 the Ford engineer covered it under warranty due to an oil squirter failing, the second (who i believe is a member on here) broke a rod bearing (split in half) and the third customer is this customer who you are reading about and the car hasnt been to the dealer to diagnose the issue. We have also heard of long tube headers causing this issue as well, which i find it very hard to believe, but again there are no facts, just speculation. The funny thing is that everyone is blaming the tune, but this is an ongoing issue (according to our local ford dealer) on the FORD tech forums and there is a lot of finger pointing going on. You all are just hearing about cars with tunes having these #8 issues on forums, but if you look at the facts 90% of the 5.0 customers on forums have their cars modified and are running tunes. These issues are happening on FRPP tunes as well as 100% stock cars, so its very hard to place the blame on the tune. All of the cars that we have heard about having this issue have been EARLY production cars, but who's to say that has anything to do with it, because we dont know the facts and probably never will. We have been running our most aggressive Race tune (more aggressive than we send out to customers) on our 2011 test car for the last 16k miles (on 93 pump gas) and have raced it at nearly all NMRA events and definitely a LOT of spirited driving and abuse (naturally aspirated and with over 600rwhp to the wheels with a Vortech). We also have 2 other 2011-2012 in house test cars with ZERO issues as well. Ford's OEM calibration has parameters in place to protect the engine and we DO NOT remove these calibrations or alter the parameters. If anyone has any concerns or questions feel free to call me anytime. I can be reached directly at 574.594.9559 ext 3.
Thanks,
Chandler
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From: RICHMOND VA
Thread Starter
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Joined: January 23, 2011
Posts: 511
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From: RICHMOND VA
This is a rotating assembly that I'm considering:
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/2011_parts.htm
MMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0
Up to 1000HP!
This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete fully forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 1000 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. Available in all piston oversizes.
Includes:
Brand New Ford Racing Forged Crankshaft- fully counter weighted, will handle up to 1500HP
MANLEY 4340 Forged H-beam Rods with ARP Bolts
MANLEY Forged Pistons with steel Pins
Total Seal Rings
Clevite Performance Rod Bearings
Factory Ford Main bearings 1 year Warranty
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/2011_parts.htm
MMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0
Up to 1000HP!
This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete fully forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 1000 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. Available in all piston oversizes.
Includes:
Brand New Ford Racing Forged Crankshaft- fully counter weighted, will handle up to 1500HP
MANLEY 4340 Forged H-beam Rods with ARP Bolts
MANLEY Forged Pistons with steel Pins
Total Seal Rings
Clevite Performance Rod Bearings
Factory Ford Main bearings 1 year Warranty
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Joined: January 30, 2011
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 2
From: Houma, Louisiana
This is a rotating assembly that I'm considering:
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/2011_parts.htm
MMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0
Up to 1000HP!
This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete fully forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 1000 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. Available in all piston oversizes.
Includes:
Brand New Ford Racing Forged Crankshaft- fully counter weighted, will handle up to 1500HP
MANLEY 4340 Forged H-beam Rods with ARP Bolts
MANLEY Forged Pistons with steel Pins
Total Seal Rings
Clevite Performance Rod Bearings
Factory Ford Main bearings 1 year Warranty
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/2011_parts.htm
MMR Street Mod 1000 Rotating Assembly for 2011/2012 5.0
Up to 1000HP!
This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete fully forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 1000 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. Available in all piston oversizes.
Includes:
Brand New Ford Racing Forged Crankshaft- fully counter weighted, will handle up to 1500HP
MANLEY 4340 Forged H-beam Rods with ARP Bolts
MANLEY Forged Pistons with steel Pins
Total Seal Rings
Clevite Performance Rod Bearings
Factory Ford Main bearings 1 year Warranty
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
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Joined: January 30, 2011
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 2
From: Houma, Louisiana
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I've read about several people having issues with MMR. I have no dealings with them at all so I have no idea.
But make sure you do your research before you buy.
I went through the same thing so I feel ya... I know you want to get your car done and back as soon as possible, but TRUST ME make sure you get EXACTLY what you want for your future plans.
I agree with the above statements... if you're going boost then I would drop it down if not stay with the stock compression.
The aluminator is running 9.5:1 and I would say that's probably perfect.
Too low of compression and your car will be a dog "off boost" and might be a PITA to drive.
In other words... if you have a lower compression you will have lower NA power and when the boost kicks in you could run into a sort of "instant-on" feeling where you literally are going slow then BAM the car is running away from you.
9.5:1 will give you good NA power and should deliver a smooth transition to boosted power.
Assuming this is a street car, which I assume it is... if not then that's a whole other ball of wax.
But make sure you do your research before you buy.
I went through the same thing so I feel ya... I know you want to get your car done and back as soon as possible, but TRUST ME make sure you get EXACTLY what you want for your future plans.
I agree with the above statements... if you're going boost then I would drop it down if not stay with the stock compression.
The aluminator is running 9.5:1 and I would say that's probably perfect.
Too low of compression and your car will be a dog "off boost" and might be a PITA to drive.
In other words... if you have a lower compression you will have lower NA power and when the boost kicks in you could run into a sort of "instant-on" feeling where you literally are going slow then BAM the car is running away from you.
9.5:1 will give you good NA power and should deliver a smooth transition to boosted power.
Assuming this is a street car, which I assume it is... if not then that's a whole other ball of wax.
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Joined: May 18, 2010
Posts: 2,318
Likes: 15
From: CT
I'm just going to throw this tidbit out there again-
The thing that chaps my buttocks about this is that it appears that Ford will write off your ENTIRE warranty with any the evidence of a tune at any point in the car's history.
So if you bring your motor in for a problem that has nothing to do with the tune...or if it burns up #8 long after a tune has been removed, you're done.
Most responsible people wouldn't try to make someone else pay for something that was clearly their own fault...but when the other party walks away from it's responsibility and puts the impossible burden of proof on the consumer, there is a problemo.
Good tip.
Also as another "common sense" reminder, don't attempt this without a torque wrench. Overtighten that plug and you'll live to regret it.
Carry on, fellas!
The thing that chaps my buttocks about this is that it appears that Ford will write off your ENTIRE warranty with any the evidence of a tune at any point in the car's history.
So if you bring your motor in for a problem that has nothing to do with the tune...or if it burns up #8 long after a tune has been removed, you're done.
Most responsible people wouldn't try to make someone else pay for something that was clearly their own fault...but when the other party walks away from it's responsibility and puts the impossible burden of proof on the consumer, there is a problemo.
As a reminder, its best NOT to check them after you've been idling very long.
Back in the day when the only way to check your (main jet) mixture was by checking the color of your plugs, they always said it was best after driving under a slight load - like up a mild grade. Then pull em and check the color/snap a pic for a truer reading.
Back in the day when the only way to check your (main jet) mixture was by checking the color of your plugs, they always said it was best after driving under a slight load - like up a mild grade. Then pull em and check the color/snap a pic for a truer reading.
Also as another "common sense" reminder, don't attempt this without a torque wrench. Overtighten that plug and you'll live to regret it.
Carry on, fellas!
