I know we keep talking about speakers
#21
Haha I see. Well if you do go the route of full upgrade, maybe you can reuse the factory sub box and keep the system somewhat hidden
Also, how was the response of your sub in the GTO? I know those things have horrible trunk designs with the gas tank and trunk being sealed off from the cabin like a convertible.
Also, how was the response of your sub in the GTO? I know those things have horrible trunk designs with the gas tank and trunk being sealed off from the cabin like a convertible.
#22
Originally Posted by TheDivaDanielle
It was ***. Pure ***. I had a 500w Memphis Mono-Amp and a Diamond DVC 12" sub. It sounded close to 50 times better in my ex-fiance's 2006 Mustang, than it ever did in my GTO.
#23
Originally Posted by laserred38
Yes.
And processors aren't any more expensive than a CAI and tune. Gimme a break. People are so willing to pay top dollar for little gains on performance parts, but when it comes to their sound, instantly everyone becomes a cheapskate. Yes, you want a flat eq - in an optimal listening environment, which a car is NOT. Reflections and people's tastes vary widely. A processor gives you the flexibility to tailor the sound to your own tastes and your car. Just swapping the speakers is a crapshoot - you're still limited to the factory eq and bass/treble adjustments, and you don't know if they a) work for your ears, b) work well with your stock tuning, until they're installed.
The proper way is to do speakers AND amps AND a processor, but most of you aren't willing to pay to play for all of that. That's why I suggest just the processor, because you have a higher chance of tailoring your factory system to where you're happy with it, versus trial and error on buying, installing and uninstalling speaker sets that you can't try out until they're in your doors.
#24
Hah I see. I know on the audio forums I used to frequent, everyone hated that trunk design. Did you sell off that setup? Memphis and Diamond made solid gear too. Btw, GTO looked good! Love the G8 wheels on there. DDM had a Black Friday sale so I ordered my 3000k 55w high beams and 3000k 35w fogs. I have 5000k low beams from them now. I like the contrast look better now, but I used to like everything matching.
Hit hard, it did.
#25
Originally Posted by Mr. V
I have used processors in the past and don't feel they are needed if your car comes from the factory with reasonable sized speakers with good placement from the factory. I feel the ford placement is actually pretty good in relation to the drivers position. That is just my opinion. I have heard and installed many systems that sound excellent with and without processing.
#26
Sounds good. With that in mind, I'd look to Hertz or Dynaudio. They are typically more mellow sounding. You can also piece together components from madisound or partsexpress, but you have to know what to look for as far as the speakers' parameters. You could do an all Dayton Audio set up, as they also are known for a nice mellow sound and are decently priced. I have a complete Hertz setup in my Escape, and it sounds great on all kinds of music - I wish I went with the equivalent Focal setup though. I just got a better deal on the Hertz stuff.
#27
Originally Posted by laserred38
You do if you a) want factory integration with the most flexibility/best sound quality possible, b) want to time align your system. The best factory placement in the world won't make up for time alignment unless you drive a McClaren F1. The factory system does have simple adjustments for sound focus (as far as I remember), but that's not good enough for me. And it depends on what kind of music you listen to - if you listen to music that doesn't actually have a soundstage (like EDM) you don't really need time alignment, even though I personally would still want the sound from all speakers reaching me at the same time.
I am not saying don't buy processors. I'm just saying for many folks it is overkill. I wouldn't recommend it unless someone is an audiophile. You mentioned in an earlier post how people will spend on performance mods and skimp on sound. I feel that like performance, it is best to buy a part and try it. Then decide if it needs augmentation.
I am in no way discounting your opinion. Many people feel it is better to buy all you might need to ensure the best results immediately. That is never a bad idea.
#28
You make an excellent point about time alignment. I will be the first to admit my hearing isn't the best. Many people will not be able to tell the difference. You sound like someone that has an ear that can discern high end systems. In my experience, most do not. I have set up systems using a rta that reference perfectly for placement and frequency and I didn't like the sound.
I am not saying don't buy processors. I'm just saying for many folks it is overkill. I wouldn't recommend it unless someone is an audiophile. You mentioned in an earlier post how people will spend on performance mods and skimp on sound. I feel that like performance, it is best to buy a part and try it. Then decide if it needs augmentation.
I am in no way discounting your opinion. Many people feel it is better to buy all you might need to ensure the best results immediately. That is never a bad idea.
I am not saying don't buy processors. I'm just saying for many folks it is overkill. I wouldn't recommend it unless someone is an audiophile. You mentioned in an earlier post how people will spend on performance mods and skimp on sound. I feel that like performance, it is best to buy a part and try it. Then decide if it needs augmentation.
I am in no way discounting your opinion. Many people feel it is better to buy all you might need to ensure the best results immediately. That is never a bad idea.
I liken the processor to the handheld tuner for the ECU. It allows you the flexibility to tune the system stock, then add in components as you change them, same as a tuner for the engine. If you know where to look, or buy one used, they aren't that expensive when compared to other mods.
#29
Do you happen to know what to suggest when it comes to the parameters? What would be a good frequency range on the different components? What hertz/focal setup would you have went with? What do you think about HAT speakers? I have seen a couple of setups from partsexpress like the Dayton RS180 for a midbass and I believe vifa XT25 tweeters but not if this is what would qualify for the sound I'm going for.
As far as parameters to look for, it's way more involved than I'd go into on here, and really it depends on the car. I don't have much experience with the S197s, so I can't say for sure. However, I can comment on brands that you're likely to be okay with - Dayton, like you mentioned is a good all around brand to stick with, and yes those RS180s are highly acclaimed. I have the XT25s in my Mustang and I loved them, but honestly they are huge format tweeters, so I wouldn't run them again. I'd rather run a separate 1-1.25" tweeter and 3" midrange (like I have in my Escape) for easier install.
In my Mustang I was running Peerless HD 6.5s with the XT25s and it was decent, but I wanted more mid bass. My doors were deadened but not sealed - those mids would perform better in a small sealed enclosure, but I never got around to it. The XT25s played pretty dang low - I believe I had them crossed at 1khz, which is low for a tweeter, but with the 3" I have in the Escape, I'm able to drop those down to 300hz, which raises the stage for the drums immensely (I have the 1"/3" combo on the A-pillars, fed by a hybrid setup - they are on the passive crossover, but my head unit sees them as one speaker set, not the combination - I just let the passive cross them over wherever that point is set).
I really wanted to run the yellow cone Focal K-series 3-ways, 6.5 in the factory location, 3/1 on the A-pillars with the passive crossover, and then I'd run a Dynaudio or JL ZR800 midbass where the factory 8" subs are. So again, it would be a hybrid active/passive 4-way front stage. That is getting into some $ though.
If I were going to piece together a system from parts express, the RS180 would be a good start, and I'd even do a 5.25 of the same line in the factory 5x7 location, then look around for a passive 3/1" combo to install on the A-pillars. That will make your tuning and time alignment a LOT easier to tackle, and save you a little money on the mid bass/range woofers. I'd also run the Dayton HO sub - I've always wanted to try them out, as they get nothing but praise from all over.
#30
Thanks for the input and taking the time to explain in more detail laserred and as you can tell this is my first active setup. I am still learning about it for sure...lol. I was looking at the JL you mentioned before since they fit in the factory location and reuse the factory grille. I would assume its a true 8 inch sub vs the RS180. Sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by a passive 3/1" combo for the a pillars?
#31
Originally Posted by fgibbs
Thanks for the input and taking the time to explain in more detail laserred and as you can tell this is my first active setup. I am still learning about it for sure...lol. I was looking at the JL you mentioned before since they fit in the factory location and reuse the factory grille. I would assume its a true 8 inch sub vs the RS180. Sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by a passive 3/1" combo for the a pillars?
#32
The JL ZR800 is a dedicated mid bass, not a sub. It would be perfect for that spot, and at the shop I used to work at, they did a system in a 08 (I believe) Roush just like that. The combo on the A-pillars is a 3" midrange combined with a 1" tweeter. Mine are fiberglassed in. I recommend going this route because the XT25s are bigger and deeper overall than my 3" midrange, and you get better response with the dedicated midrange/tweeter setup versus having one big tweeter play that whole range.
#33
Originally Posted by fgibbs
Gotcha...could I do a quality midrange in the 5x7 spot and mount a tweeter in the pillar or in the side mirror cover? I am trying to keep it as stealth as I can.
#34
Thanks laserred for your help...I may play with the tweeter location once I get it going. Now I need to find out what frequency ranges to play at so I can choose some speakers and start piecing it together.
#35
Wow -- I'm honestly amazed that people are complaining about the stock stereo system!!! I have the Shaker system in my 2012 Performance Package Premium V6 coupe, and I LOVE it.. it's by far the best sounding stereo system I've ever had in a car, and by far the best factory system I've heard in ANY car... I can't see what anyone would complain about!
#36
Wow -- I'm honestly amazed that people are complaining about the stock stereo system!!! I have the Shaker system in my 2012 Performance Package Premium V6 coupe, and I LOVE it.. it's by far the best sounding stereo system I've ever had in a car, and by far the best factory system I've heard in ANY car... I can't see what anyone would complain about!
#37
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