Big 2/3 Upgrade?
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Big 2/3 Upgrade?
Has any one done this? I started looking at it yesterday and there isn't really a good path from the alternator to the battery. I'm worried the wire is going to be too close to the engine. As you can see in the pic it would be running basically right next to the header....
#3
im guessing it's a reference to upgrading the alternator to battery, then battery ground cabling.
I haven't upgraded my cabling, but I've never seen my voltage drop below 13.2 volts while running. I'm not running a ton of power, but I do have two amps and a processor running off a 1/0 run to the trunk. I'd have to look in the engine bay to really see a good run, but I would probably pull it straight up the inner fender and then run the cabling behind the engine, or maybe try to run it up the engine and maybe under the engine cover back to the firewall. Also, I'd definitely be using flex tech/expandable sleeving on the cable to help protect it while under the hood.
I haven't upgraded my cabling, but I've never seen my voltage drop below 13.2 volts while running. I'm not running a ton of power, but I do have two amps and a processor running off a 1/0 run to the trunk. I'd have to look in the engine bay to really see a good run, but I would probably pull it straight up the inner fender and then run the cabling behind the engine, or maybe try to run it up the engine and maybe under the engine cover back to the firewall. Also, I'd definitely be using flex tech/expandable sleeving on the cable to help protect it while under the hood.
#4
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Yea sorry guys I guess I should have specified.It's the The electrical system wire upgrades. From what I have gathered, newer cars don't require the engine block to chassis wire upgrade, so its essentially the big 2 now. Alt. to battery+, battery- to chassis.
Last edited by 05PRMTX; 3/9/15 at 07:31 AM.
#5
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
im guessing it's a reference to upgrading the alternator to battery, then battery ground cabling.
I haven't upgraded my cabling, but I've never seen my voltage drop below 13.2 volts while running. I'm not running a ton of power, but I do have two amps and a processor running off a 1/0 run to the trunk. I'd have to look in the engine bay to really see a good run, but I would probably pull it straight up the inner fender and then run the cabling behind the engine, or maybe try to run it up the engine and maybe under the engine cover back to the firewall. Also, I'd definitely be using flex tech/expandable sleeving on the cable to help protect it while under the hood.
I haven't upgraded my cabling, but I've never seen my voltage drop below 13.2 volts while running. I'm not running a ton of power, but I do have two amps and a processor running off a 1/0 run to the trunk. I'd have to look in the engine bay to really see a good run, but I would probably pull it straight up the inner fender and then run the cabling behind the engine, or maybe try to run it up the engine and maybe under the engine cover back to the firewall. Also, I'd definitely be using flex tech/expandable sleeving on the cable to help protect it while under the hood.
Last edited by 05PRMTX; 3/9/15 at 07:56 AM.
#6
The blue sleeving sounds like a good touch. I'll be curious to see how much of a difference it makes. I know it should make a difference, but if you're seeing voltage drops then I'd like to see how much the voltage drops are alleviated.
I think I'm not seeing quite the drops because I have a class d 4 channel bridges to my midranges and my big 4 channel is barely being pushed due to my subs being in an IB configuration.
I think I'm not seeing quite the drops because I have a class d 4 channel bridges to my midranges and my big 4 channel is barely being pushed due to my subs being in an IB configuration.
#8
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
The blue sleeving sounds like a good touch. I'll be curious to see how much of a difference it makes. I know it should make a difference, but if you're seeing voltage drops then I'd like to see how much the voltage drops are alleviated.
I think I'm not seeing quite the drops because I have a class d 4 channel bridges to my midranges and my big 4 channel is barely being pushed due to my subs being in an IB configuration.
I think I'm not seeing quite the drops because I have a class d 4 channel bridges to my midranges and my big 4 channel is barely being pushed due to my subs being in an IB configuration.
4ch: http://archive.mtx.com/caraudio/prod...hunder7804.cfm
Mono: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bsnHjwm...under5601.html (run a 2 ohms)
I'll do a before and after test
Last edited by 05PRMTX; 3/10/15 at 09:01 AM.
#9
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Did a test and its dropping by a volt when the lights start dimming. Need to order some new battery terminals to account for the new wires, so that has put a slight delay on things.
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