Adding rear AMP to Shaker 500 on 14 GT
#81
Crap, I guess I'll remove the PAC tomorrow night and try doing a reset on Sync. I found the Sync web site and logged in. The dealer registered me when I got the car so I remember I had a login (I had to reset my password though). Anyway, according to that web site my Sync system is up to date. If removing the PAC and resetting the system (and my phone) doesn't work I'll have the dealer check out the Sync system. It's going in next week for another issue anyway.
#82
Well I don't know what happened but Sync started working with my phone (EVO LTE) today. I still can't receive texts but I think that's an issue with my phone. I'm going to switch over to a different phone I have here (Galaxy S3) and see if that one works. My EVO used to work fine but I had a warranty replacement done through Best Buy and this one doesn't seem to want to work with texts. Call and music streaming work fine.
#83
Have you guys had any sort of noise out of the Pac piece? I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there. I don't have engine noise when i use the aux input, so i don't think it's picked up between the processor and the amps.
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
#84
GT Member
Have you guys had any sort of noise out of the Pac piece? I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there. I don't have engine noise when i use the aux input, so i don't think it's picked up between the processor and the amps.
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
I put a Clarion EQ inline after the PAC and before the amp. Made a big difference. This is where I mounted it and still be able to have access to it.
#85
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Have you guys had any sort of noise out of the Pac piece? I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there. I don't have engine noise when i use the aux input, so i don't think it's picked up between the processor and the amps.
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
Also, are you using a processor after the PAC piece before the amp?
"I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there"
Not sure what you mean here?
The pac is connected inline and you are using the rca's correct? are you still using any of the original amps? Sorry you probably said that earlier in this thread I will look back now.
#86
I have the PAC installed inline between the factory radio and harness and speakers still powered by the factory HU. I was planning to use the PAC to power just a sub but the sub I had is blown so now I'm waiting to buy a new sub. However, the PAC is still installed and I don't notice any (noticeable) noise.
#87
I have no noise in mine. I have the eq in the back mounted to the box near my amplifier.
"I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there"
Not sure what you mean here?
The pac is connected inline and you are using the rca's correct? are you still using any of the original amps? Sorry you probably said that earlier in this thread I will look back now.
"I have mine wired into the amp output of the amp on speaker levels right now and i have a bit of engine noise through there"
Not sure what you mean here?
The pac is connected inline and you are using the rca's correct? are you still using any of the original amps? Sorry you probably said that earlier in this thread I will look back now.
It's good to hear that both of you using the PAC piece have good results from it.
#88
I don't have any engine noise but I do have a very slight electrical hum when the engine is off. It is barely noticeable so I'm not worried about it.
I put a Clarion EQ inline after the PAC and before the amp. Made a big difference. This is where I mounted it and still be able to have access to it. Attachment 163214
I put a Clarion EQ inline after the PAC and before the amp. Made a big difference. This is where I mounted it and still be able to have access to it. Attachment 163214
#89
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. I know this thread is dead, but if anyone is still having trouble with pops, clicks or that sort of thing, this might help. Clicks, pops and hums are 90% of the time caused by a bad ground. Thus, here are some rules of thumb:
1. Always use the same size positive and negative wire for wiring your aftermarket electronics.
2. If possible, always ground to the frame of the automobile and sand off any paint or rust to ensure a solid contact.
3. Common ground all components fed by the same power wire. For instance, if you have split a 2 AWG power wire down to two 4 AWG feeds for your amps, ground both 4 AWG grounds to the same location.
Another possible source is from a mismatch between the high level input speaker leads going into an LOC or aftermarket signal summing unit (Audiocontrol) and the max low level input of your amp. For instance, if your amp has a max 8 volt input, you should adjust your LOC to limit its low level output to 8 volts.
Electromagnetic fields are the least common problem, but use shielded and/or twisted pair cables. Run signal wires down one side of the vehicle and power wires down the other. Wherever power and signal wires cross, make them as close to a right angle as possible. Avoid fans! The HVAC blower motor behind your glove box is the single worst EMF generator inside your vehicle. Avoid it at all costs.
1. Always use the same size positive and negative wire for wiring your aftermarket electronics.
2. If possible, always ground to the frame of the automobile and sand off any paint or rust to ensure a solid contact.
3. Common ground all components fed by the same power wire. For instance, if you have split a 2 AWG power wire down to two 4 AWG feeds for your amps, ground both 4 AWG grounds to the same location.
Another possible source is from a mismatch between the high level input speaker leads going into an LOC or aftermarket signal summing unit (Audiocontrol) and the max low level input of your amp. For instance, if your amp has a max 8 volt input, you should adjust your LOC to limit its low level output to 8 volts.
Electromagnetic fields are the least common problem, but use shielded and/or twisted pair cables. Run signal wires down one side of the vehicle and power wires down the other. Wherever power and signal wires cross, make them as close to a right angle as possible. Avoid fans! The HVAC blower motor behind your glove box is the single worst EMF generator inside your vehicle. Avoid it at all costs.
#90
Mach 1 Member
Interesting read now that I caught up. Proper grounding is key and avoid multiple grounding points or else you will get a ground loop which causes the hum.
Last edited by Scrape; 2/7/15 at 04:16 AM.
#91
I have a 2013 coupe with a shaker 500. I purchased a used trunk amp and sub from a 2010 I believe, it has the dual subs, Can I just purchase a harness and plug it into the shaker head unit and make it work? Or do you have to have a 1000 head unit to make it function?
#92
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I am not sure, but -- take a look in your trunk under the carpet, you might be pleasantly surprised to find the wires are already there
#93
Mach 1 Member
The HU is the same for the 500 and 1000 it will have the inputs already. I know on the 05-09s even the harness was the same for the 500 and 1000. All you had to do was get the amps and subs and plug them in. Just check in your trunk under the carped like Bert mentioned. The plugs may be there already.
Last edited by 05PRMTX; 1/13/20 at 10:06 AM.
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