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fleabay polisher/buffer

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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #1  
rmurer's Avatar
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From: S.E Michigan
fleabay polisher/buffer

Well even though my 2011 5.0 came with only 800 miles on it, the paint... i feel needs some work or is atleast not up to my standards.

So i figure get some cutting compound and work my way up to get some of those micro scratches out of the paint. Im guessing the dealer did a **** poor job of washing the car.

I know the best idea is to use a polisher/buffer. I know the name brand ones can go for a couple hundred. Is there any downfall to getting a 50-60$ one of fleabay? i know that on ebay price usually equals quality but as i only see using it a couple times i figure why not.

or... should i scratch the idea because i could potentially screw something up and let a pro do it..??? any input?
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 03:39 PM
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Trumpetlon's Avatar
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From: Buckeye, AZ
I got a cheap 10" orbital from Harbor Freight for doing wax, it works great for that. I recommend letting a pro do the polishing if you don't know what you are doing. It's too easy to make a mistake if you are not prepared. However, if you do your research, it's not too difficult to do it yourself either, just use caution and don't be in a hurry. I pay a pro $90 once a year to do a complete detail to the paint and exterior, it's worth every penny IMHO.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 04:09 PM
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LEwis26's Avatar
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From: Chicago
I would say don't cheap out, and go get an actual Porter Cable.

Do you really want to risk messing up your paint, and then having to get it repaired?

That will cost way more than the price difference between em.


I have a PC7424 and its awesome. Autogeek.net has a kit with all you need for $170.

http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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I have a harbor freight 39.95 high speed polisher and I use it on the boat in Florida ad it works just fine for what I need. If anything it will be better for a beginner since it doesn't have the power under load my makita at home has. A pro could do the job but they can screw it up just the same.
Keep the speed low when cutting1000-1200, then increase to 1500-1800 when polishing. If your using foam pads make sure you use a different pad for cutting and polishing. Stay away from the emblems, decals and mirrors. Don't use a ton of product. Your just making a mess with it if you do. Try to just polish first because it may be all you need.
I prefer 3m products. Stuff isn't cheap but it works. Good luck
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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From: Chula Vista, Ca.
Don't risk it. You paid a pretty penny for a car but use a el cheapo buffer...that doesn't add up. You know if your spending $80 on a fleabay model...you could spend another $40 or less and get a pc!
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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From: Bremen, Indiana
Originally Posted by Bigblue11
Don't risk it. You paid a pretty penny for a car but use a el cheapo buffer...that doesn't add up. You know if your spending $80 on a fleabay model...you could spend another $40 or less and get a pc!
A high dollar buffer won't make an amateur any better. Using good pads and products will help
More then the quality of buffer.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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rmurer's Avatar
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From: S.E Michigan
thanks for the very insightful posts. before i would tackle it i would def do a lot of research before i attempt it and might even attempt it on a test vehicle.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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From: San Antonio Texas
Originally Posted by going for broke
A high dollar buffer won't make an amateur any better. Using good pads and products will help
More then the quality of buffer.
Not really true, you can't get a "quality" compound to break down with the flea bay buffer, you will need a good D/A like a PC or Flex. I started out using a $40 HF buffer and Meguairs Pro line. Didn't get the job done until I got a PC with Lake country pads and stepped up to Menzerna compounds.
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