Performance mods
#41
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#42
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I believe that in order for one to really have the cold air intake to fully work you need headers and off road x pipe. You can suck all the air into the engine you want but the air can only be pushed out so fast with stock manifolds and factory cats. Headers and no cats open the engine up to breath and push all that air out faster. A cai is just one ingredient to make the cake great.
#43
From my understanding a tune works good on manual but it really shines for automatics . I have an auto and the shift points are awesome. You get the perfect shift at the perfect rpm's on a auto with a tune. Of course having a manual, your in control of the gear shifts. You will definitely get better throttle response with the performance tuner. Perhaps the guys and girls running a performance tuner with manual transmission can give you more on how they like it. For an automatic, it's a must must must have, night and day difference. Even a factory 5.0 automatic, I felt needed the performance tuner because of the throttle response, and how it shifted. If I ever upgraded to a 5.0, the first thing after signing the paperwork and sitting in my new pony at the dealership would be to install a 91 hybrid tune in that bad boy.
II would bring my Sct performance tuner to the freaking dealership. It's amazing how different the car feels after you unlock and unleash the hidden power Ford gives and tames them down to meet fuel requirements and environmental restrictions. The shift points on my automatic from the factory were horrible compared to my hybrid tune, performance or street tune. The car would jerk forward from the gears skipping in order to save fuel. The car would sometimes jerk forward when accelerating slowly which the gears were programmed to slip skip in order to conserve mpg's. Forget that $hit.
II would bring my Sct performance tuner to the freaking dealership. It's amazing how different the car feels after you unlock and unleash the hidden power Ford gives and tames them down to meet fuel requirements and environmental restrictions. The shift points on my automatic from the factory were horrible compared to my hybrid tune, performance or street tune. The car would jerk forward from the gears skipping in order to save fuel. The car would sometimes jerk forward when accelerating slowly which the gears were programmed to slip skip in order to conserve mpg's. Forget that $hit.
Last edited by 2011 Kona Blue; 3/21/13 at 10:36 PM.
#44
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From my understanding a tune works good on manual but it really shines for automatics . I have an auto and the shift points are awesome. You get the perfect shift at the perfect rpm's on a auto with a tune. Of course having a manual, your in control of the gear shifts. You will definitely get better throttle response with the performance tuner. Perhaps the guys and girls running a performance tuner with manual transmission can give you more on how they like it. For an automatic, it's a must must must have, night and day difference. Even a factory 5.0 automatic, I felt needed the performance tuner because of the throttle response, and how it shifted. If I ever upgraded to a 5.0, the first thing after signing the paperwork and sitting in my new pony at the dealership would be to install a 91 hybrid tune in that bad boy.
II would bring my Sct performance tuner to the freaking dealership. It's amazing how different the car feels after you unlock and unleash the hidden power Ford gives and tames them down to meet fuel requirements and environmental restrictions. The shift points on my automatic from the factory were horrible compared to my hybrid tune, performance or street tune. The car would jerk forward from the gears skipping in order to save fuel. The car would sometimes jerk forward when accelerating slowly which the gears were programmed to slip skip in order to conserve mpg's. Forget that $hit.
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#47
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make sure you get one that doesnt require a tune. A CAI that requires a tune and ran without can be bad for the motor and even blow it.
All JLT intakes require tunes that are on AM.com, so AirRaid would be your only options.
All JLT intakes require tunes that are on AM.com, so AirRaid would be your only options.
Last edited by ShaneGT; 3/22/13 at 06:39 PM.
#48
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It says the JLT dosnt require a tune?! Neither does the airraid
#49
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Performance mods for these cars are the following things.
Gears, Drive Shaft, CAI + Tunes and tuner, Control arms, exhaust, Headers, Super Charger.
However I will have to state that some are worth more than others. I am happy with the HP output and the gearing of the Performance Package so I won't opt for those two. The Drive Shaft is the 1st on my list to remove the two piece DS and to remove my governor which is set at 114. The second on my list would be a Cold Air Intake (CAI) with some tunes and Tuner. Last but not least upper and lower control arms can really improve the handling of these cars.
Gears, Drive Shaft, CAI + Tunes and tuner, Control arms, exhaust, Headers, Super Charger.
However I will have to state that some are worth more than others. I am happy with the HP output and the gearing of the Performance Package so I won't opt for those two. The Drive Shaft is the 1st on my list to remove the two piece DS and to remove my governor which is set at 114. The second on my list would be a Cold Air Intake (CAI) with some tunes and Tuner. Last but not least upper and lower control arms can really improve the handling of these cars.
#51
Suspension can do quite a bit. Not only do improvements help with cornering and handling but also acceleration because suspension mods can reduce weight transfer during hard acceleration.
#52
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Suspension upgrades make your car handle more precisely and predictably. It involves shocks, springs, sway bars, and control arms.
If you're going to make the car go fast, you have to make it be able to stop fast. The factory (non-brembo) brakes are essentially crap when you're talking about performance driving. The problem is that a complete brake upgrade is VERY expensive.
At the very least, you should replace your brake pads and brake lines (with steel-braided lines). The cheapest hard parts upgrade would be to put GT front brakes on your car. After that, you get into the FRPP stuff ($1800), Brembo ($2400), Baer and Wilwood ($3200) - and these prices are JUST for the front brakes. Keep in mind that these prices are being recalled from my fuzzy old-man brain, and may not be enitrely accurate, but are still indicative of the price differences.
If you're going to make the car go fast, you have to make it be able to stop fast. The factory (non-brembo) brakes are essentially crap when you're talking about performance driving. The problem is that a complete brake upgrade is VERY expensive.
At the very least, you should replace your brake pads and brake lines (with steel-braided lines). The cheapest hard parts upgrade would be to put GT front brakes on your car. After that, you get into the FRPP stuff ($1800), Brembo ($2400), Baer and Wilwood ($3200) - and these prices are JUST for the front brakes. Keep in mind that these prices are being recalled from my fuzzy old-man brain, and may not be enitrely accurate, but are still indicative of the price differences.
#53
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Suspension upgrades make your car handle more precisely and predictably. It involves shocks, springs, sway bars, and control arms.
If you're going to make the car go fast, you have to make it be able to stop fast. The factory (non-brembo) brakes are essentially crap when you're talking about performance driving. The problem is that a complete brake upgrade is VERY expensive.
At the very least, you should replace your brake pads and brake lines (with steel-braided lines). The cheapest hard parts upgrade would be to put GT front brakes on your car. After that, you get into the FRPP stuff ($1800), Brembo ($2400), Baer and Wilwood ($3200) - and these prices are JUST for the front brakes. Keep in mind that these prices are being recalled from my fuzzy old-man brain, and may not be enitrely accurate, but are still indicative of the price differences.
#54
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