Watts Link
11/21/10, 11:16 AM
#61
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: July 15, 2010
Location: Greenville NC
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11/21/10, 03:24 PM
#63
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: July 15, 2010
Location: Greenville NC
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11/22/10, 01:26 PM
#64
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Many thanks to all that responded to my inital post, and a special thanks to Sam and Modshack for their knowledge and insight. After reading this thread several times I think I will go with the Steeda unit. I prefer not to mess with the differential especially since I may not be able to get the correct oil to go back in it. I live in a mountainous region therefor it stands the reason I would like the car to handle at it's best and carve a corner with confidence. I think the Watts Link will do that for me along with the proper springs, bars, and dampners. Having one of the few American cars in the region sports or otherwise, I need to be on top of my game and represent. It's a matter of pride.
Big Poppa remember that I I carry both brands (and can ship internationally, or to a US based Freight forwarder).
Though the only real difference between the two is in possible noise (Steeda being more quiet over the long run using urethane bushings vs. rod-ends). Neither of these units require messing with the differential cover like some others do. Fays2 and Steeda both bolt to the body and clamp to the axle tubes, you never take the differential cover off the car.
11/22/10, 02:01 PM
#65
Shelby GT350 Member
This has been a very good post. Well informed and documented. If I had a Mustang I'd probably go ahead with the Fays2, it seems like a smart idea for track and road applications. Very cool thread! 
11/29/10, 12:00 PM
#67
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 3, 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running WIDE tires in the rear and the Panhard basically needs to be fine tuned within 1/8" to get maximum clearance. I get a touch of rub when hitting a driveway where the axle is articulated with one wheel up and one down.
Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.
Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.
Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
11/29/10, 12:04 PM
#68
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: July 15, 2010
Location: Greenville NC
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running WIDE tires in the rear and the Panhard basically needs to be fine tuned within 1/8" to get maximum clearance. I get a touch of rub when hitting a driveway where the axle is articulated with one wheel up and one down.
Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.
Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.
Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
11/29/10, 12:08 PM
#69
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm about to be blasphemous here... But on my 2001 Z28 (11" rear wheels, 315 tires) when I swapped to a Watts link from the PHB (which is setup almost identically to a S197 setup no less), I was able to take 10mm of spacer out of each rear wheel that was 100% required with the PHB----but no need for that with the watts link getting rid of the arcing motion of the body.
So, to more bluntly answer your question you'd have more wiggle room, as well as an increase in rear end stability and trustworthiness.
So, to more bluntly answer your question you'd have more wiggle room, as well as an increase in rear end stability and trustworthiness.
12/7/10, 04:16 PM
#71
Bullitt Member
Join Date: November 6, 2010
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2/1/11, 09:37 AM
#73
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 6, 2010
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Didn't notice an answer for this one Sam... any advice for the budget conscious? What is the difference? In both quality and performance?
2/1/11, 09:46 AM
#74
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sam has answered this many, many, MANY times before. 
They work the same way, I think the Steeda is a bit too pricey for my tastes, but some love the fact it's Chrome-Moly vs. mild steel, it's slightly easier to install, and it's potentially a bit more quiet since it uses bushings vs. rod-ends. But noise is never a common complaint with the Fays2 anyway.
They work the same way, I think the Steeda is a bit too pricey for my tastes, but some love the fact it's Chrome-Moly vs. mild steel, it's slightly easier to install, and it's potentially a bit more quiet since it uses bushings vs. rod-ends. But noise is never a common complaint with the Fays2 anyway.
2/1/11, 03:47 PM
#76
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I do... I wouldn't.
First, they are going to be exclusive to Shelby the first year, and I'm sure at a premium (and they will cost more than the current version). Second, they don't really weigh much less (about 1-2 pounds from what I'm told) because you need a lot of aluminum to retain the strength you need in that piece. Third, they don't have the lower RC height adjusters. Now for me, that's not a big deal because I prefer the RC a bit higher, but some folks like it lower and that version won't have the full range.
First, they are going to be exclusive to Shelby the first year, and I'm sure at a premium (and they will cost more than the current version). Second, they don't really weigh much less (about 1-2 pounds from what I'm told) because you need a lot of aluminum to retain the strength you need in that piece. Third, they don't have the lower RC height adjusters. Now for me, that's not a big deal because I prefer the RC a bit higher, but some folks like it lower and that version won't have the full range.
2/2/11, 08:27 AM
#77
Something that I can't seem to find the answer to is a question I have on compatability. Would the Fays2 work with CHE Performance's 2011 S/T 8.8 Axle Brace with LPW Axle Girdle? They look like they run along the same area, and would have to be one or the other. If this is so then my AutoX/Drag setup has come to a fork in the road and I'll need to pick one or the other. 
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-314.htm
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-314.htm
2/2/11, 09:31 AM
#80
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's possible the right sided 'stem' will clear that bar, and I think you can actually rotate it around a bit if needed if the L side is put at the same angle (I think, don't quote me on that). It might only be in suspension travel where it's a problem:
You could always try it and sell whichever you don't want if it won't fit (take a bit of a hit on the resale, of course).
You could always try it and sell whichever you don't want if it won't fit (take a bit of a hit on the resale, of course).