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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #61  
Modshack's Avatar
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From: Greenville NC
Originally Posted by Big Poppa
I think the Watts Link will do that for me along with the proper springs, bars, and dampners.
Good plan...Worked for me...

BTW, Neither the Steeda or the Fays2 require any change or modification to the differential cover. They are both bolt-ons.



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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #62  
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From: Torrance
**** your axle is rusty lol
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #63  
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From: Greenville NC
Originally Posted by 20115.0
**** your axle is rusty lol
Yeah, I haven't gotten around to painting it yet...Prolly looks just like yours (and everyone else's!).....:-)

Last edited by Modshack; Nov 21, 2010 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 01:26 PM
  #64  
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From: Brookville, PA
Originally Posted by Big Poppa
Many thanks to all that responded to my inital post, and a special thanks to Sam and Modshack for their knowledge and insight. After reading this thread several times I think I will go with the Steeda unit. I prefer not to mess with the differential especially since I may not be able to get the correct oil to go back in it. I live in a mountainous region therefor it stands the reason I would like the car to handle at it's best and carve a corner with confidence. I think the Watts Link will do that for me along with the proper springs, bars, and dampners. Having one of the few American cars in the region sports or otherwise, I need to be on top of my game and represent. It's a matter of pride.

Big Poppa remember that I I carry both brands (and can ship internationally, or to a US based Freight forwarder).

Though the only real difference between the two is in possible noise (Steeda being more quiet over the long run using urethane bushings vs. rod-ends). Neither of these units require messing with the differential cover like some others do. Fays2 and Steeda both bolt to the body and clamp to the axle tubes, you never take the differential cover off the car.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #65  
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From: Dallas
This has been a very good post. Well informed and documented. If I had a Mustang I'd probably go ahead with the Fays2, it seems like a smart idea for track and road applications. Very cool thread!
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #66  
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From: Deep in the heart of TEXAS
I'm going with the Fays2, and Koni Yellows.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #67  
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From: So Cal
I'm running WIDE tires in the rear and the Panhard basically needs to be fine tuned within 1/8" to get maximum clearance. I get a touch of rub when hitting a driveway where the axle is articulated with one wheel up and one down.

Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.

Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #68  
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From: Greenville NC
Originally Posted by Scruffy281
I'm running WIDE tires in the rear and the Panhard basically needs to be fine tuned within 1/8" to get maximum clearance. I get a touch of rub when hitting a driveway where the axle is articulated with one wheel up and one down.

Have been playing with the idea of doing the Watts A) to maintain tire clearance all around the range of travel and B) for the handling bonus.

Will the Watts allow for slightly better clearance with axle articulation?
Should help you. Articulation moves the axle side to side with the PH bar. It will stay perfectly centered with the watts link.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #69  
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From: Brookville, PA
I'm about to be blasphemous here... But on my 2001 Z28 (11" rear wheels, 315 tires) when I swapped to a Watts link from the PHB (which is setup almost identically to a S197 setup no less), I was able to take 10mm of spacer out of each rear wheel that was 100% required with the PHB----but no need for that with the watts link getting rid of the arcing motion of the body.

So, to more bluntly answer your question you'd have more wiggle room, as well as an increase in rear end stability and trustworthiness.
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 04:48 AM
  #70  
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From: Socal
awesome thread. looks like i will be going with a watts link in the near future also.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 04:16 PM
  #71  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Originally Posted by Digital_Synapse
I'm going with the Fays2, and Koni Yellows.
Excellent choice. I just got mine installed on Sunday. The handling is unreal.


DSC00414 by jsnyng, on Flickr


DSC00402 by jsnyng, on Flickr
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #72  
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by Scruffy281
Does it clear the FRPP diff cover and FRPP sway bars on a GT500?
+1
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by OAC_Sparky
Sam, I noticed on their respective websites that the Steeda is listed at $1100 vs $650 for the Fays2/ How does the quality match up?
Didn't notice an answer for this one Sam... any advice for the budget conscious? What is the difference? In both quality and performance?
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #74  
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From: Brookville, PA
Sam has answered this many, many, MANY times before. They work the same way, I think the Steeda is a bit too pricey for my tastes, but some love the fact it's Chrome-Moly vs. mild steel, it's slightly easier to install, and it's potentially a bit more quiet since it uses bushings vs. rod-ends. But noise is never a common complaint with the Fays2 anyway.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #75  
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Sam do you have any knowledge of the Billet unit Fays is coming out with? I will probably pounce on that when it is released.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #76  
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From: Brookville, PA
I do... I wouldn't.

First, they are going to be exclusive to Shelby the first year, and I'm sure at a premium (and they will cost more than the current version). Second, they don't really weigh much less (about 1-2 pounds from what I'm told) because you need a lot of aluminum to retain the strength you need in that piece. Third, they don't have the lower RC height adjusters. Now for me, that's not a big deal because I prefer the RC a bit higher, but some folks like it lower and that version won't have the full range.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #77  
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From: Deep in the heart of TEXAS
Something that I can't seem to find the answer to is a question I have on compatability. Would the Fays2 work with CHE Performance's 2011 S/T 8.8 Axle Brace with LPW Axle Girdle? They look like they run along the same area, and would have to be one or the other. If this is so then my AutoX/Drag setup has come to a fork in the road and I'll need to pick one or the other.

http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-314.htm

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #78  
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From: Arvada, CO
Here's an installed pic:



I'm guessing interference with the axle mount tubes, particularly on the right side.

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #79  
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From: Deep in the heart of TEXAS
Thank you, that's exactly what I'm talking about.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #80  
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From: Arvada, CO
It's possible the right sided 'stem' will clear that bar, and I think you can actually rotate it around a bit if needed if the L side is put at the same angle (I think, don't quote me on that). It might only be in suspension travel where it's a problem:







You could always try it and sell whichever you don't want if it won't fit (take a bit of a hit on the resale, of course).
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