Thanks.

 

yea the fays 2 does look pretty heavy duty!

 

It does, considering it's almost half the price of the Steeda.

 

I have already done the FRPP handling pack and was wondering if this would improve the ride quality on bumpy roads. It is not bad now but improvement is always better and we have some really terrible roads here in NYC.

 

Some... It's nicely made, but there are things about it I don't love....

I don't like fact it mounts to a differential cover, which has to be modded and that adds cost. The roll center height is not as finely adjustable. I think it's a bit overpriced. I just prefer the frame mounted types, they are easier to install. Unsprung weight is similar between them. Griggs talks about how theirs is lighter and that's important--then turn around and want folks to slap a heavy TA on the car (where I prefer a 3 link).

 

If you are going to a Watts link, then buying a PHB is a waste. I don't always recommend an adjustable PHB either, that's one of those "easy sale" things. Sometimes a car will shift enough that it's required to square it back up, and because aftermarket PHB's are stiffer than stock (the ends, not the bar itself) there is a little tightening of the handling. But the difference is very much get what you pay for. I sell a lot of PHB's.... because many folks would rather spend $118-169 for an adjustable one than $650-1000 for a Watts link. It depends on their goals and their wallet.

 

The first thing you need to do is dump those terrible FRPP FR3 dampers, that's your major issue. Minimum replacement: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35 There are other options, but that's the best shock for the price that will fix the sledgehammer like impact harshness qualities of those FR3 dampers. I cannot, in your case, recommend a Watts link before fixing the damping. I know, you bought the kit thinking "it's Ford, it should be good". I don't love the kit overall, though it's not the most terrible setup of springs and bars--but the shocks and struts suck.

 

How hard would it be to change out those dampers? And would they give me the same cornering, nose dive ride (for lack of a better term) as the FRPP just without the harshness?

Actually the reason I went with ford was the newness of the car and that there is a slight vibration issue at around 80 that needs to be resolved. I didnt want anything that wasnt put on by ford until that is resolved. And I just could not take the stock ride any longer.

 

I just bought an '06 GT convertible. I bought the ragtop because that's what my partner Debbie wanted. If I get too carried away with suspension mods, she won't drive it. I won't track the car or push it that hard, but I would like to get rid of the nervousness of the rear end (I've had S197s before). Would the Koni SRT shocks and some LCAs accomplish that, without an increase in NVH?

 

The shocks will settle it down a lot. LCA's aren't a bad idea, but the trouble is the most quiet ones tend to be the least desirable for handling. I'd do shocks first and see what you think (especially if wheelhop is no issue for you). LCA's can add NVH, some more than others. Some bind up the axle's ability to articulate freely--some don't (but those tend to make more noise).

I'd upgrade the shocks and the swaybars... the bars will help a ton on the roll, agility and balance side with no real harm to the NVH, where springs will greatly change the ride and feel of the car all the time.

I'd also mention you consider and adjustable set of shocks like Koni Sports too. You have a heavy car, and rebound damping is what makes the car feel more responsive and what slows the roll and pitch rates.

 

It's not harder to put Koni's on than anything else really. Though I would need to know if you have 2010 and older mounts on the car, or stock 2011's. Which means there might be another step involved.

The amount of roll and dive is the springs and bars. The speed which those things happen, and how harshly the car rides, etc. are the dampers. The car will have the same balance, but it won't be as harsh and jarring and the rear will be alot better "stuck".

 

Well I have the 2011 vert with the 2010 handling pack on. Just to mess with you. I got one before the the 2011 came out. Not sure if there are any differences that would apply here.

I assume the rears switch is pretty easy but the fronts look more complicated. Are they? Is this something you need experience with or can a semi noob like myself handle the switch?

 

If you have 2010 mounts (and it seems you should) then the Koni's would go right on, no mods or other parts necessary. Obviously not knowing you I can't tell you if you can do the work--but an awful lot of people on these boards manage to do it. If you wanted to make your life easier, you could just take the strut/spring/mount assembly out of the car and run it to a shop, have the swap the struts and then you put the assembly back in-then you don't need to mess with a spring compressor!!!!

 

I still don't see a definitive answer about if the Watts link should or shouldn't be added. I wanted to use one on another vehicle once but hadn't looked since. The Watts link makes sense to me but I am just not gathering enough information to be motivated to pay. It's tough because I know it is a good part but if someone like Sam isn't using one, it's hard to justify the cost. Ya know?

 

Does the Watts Link bolt on? No welding?

 

the fays2 does, and I think Sam already said the steeda is the same

 

Here's my JDM/Saleen Watts Link. I love it the car it's planted on the pavement on the track and mountain roads is where this shines best!

 

Hmm.....I will have to look into that. Thanks again for all your help.

 

Jed, you could literally eat off of the underside of your car. Beautiful work.

 

Fays2 and Steeda are both bolt on's....