Suspension/Lowering Questions.
#1
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Suspension/Lowering Questions.
Hey guys if I plan to lower the car with a 1.5" kit what do I need to do it properly? I am not going to be doing any serious road racing where I need a car on rails. This is being done mostly for appearance. I like the Eibachs but open to other stuff. Im really confused with the whole shock/strut changes and all that other stuff. So what exactly would you need to do it the non bootleg way and to avoid problems. Thanks!
Also, is the Magnaflow Catback the only exhaust known to have rubbing issues on a lowered car??
Also, is the Magnaflow Catback the only exhaust known to have rubbing issues on a lowered car??
#2
Legacy TMS Member
i had the eibach pros on my car for a while and disliked the ride alot. Changed over to steeda sports with some Koni's and now love the ride and handling. You will need some camber bolts.
#3
Originally Posted by Glenn
i had the eibach pros on my car for a while and disliked the ride alot. Changed over to steeda sports with some Koni's and now love the ride and handling. You will need some camber bolts.
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Hey guys if I plan to lower the car with a 1.5" kit what do I need to do it properly? I am not going to be doing any serious road racing where I need a car on rails. This is being done mostly for appearance. I like the Eibachs but open to other stuff. Im really confused with the whole shock/strut changes and all that other stuff. So what exactly would you need to do it the non bootleg way and to avoid problems. Thanks!
Also, is the Magnaflow Catback the only exhaust known to have rubbing issues on a lowered car??
Also, is the Magnaflow Catback the only exhaust known to have rubbing issues on a lowered car??
#7
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Doubtful you can get away with a 1.5" drop and NOT need both of these. I went down an inch and my camber went to -1.2 degrees (spec is .75 +/- .50). Rear axle shifted 3/8th of an inch. This gets exaggerated the further you drop the car. Toe also changes pretty substantially too. You may not be showing any wear differences at 2K but you will in the future..
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Steve, all you have is the springs on D-specs and thats it? or you have the camber plates and adj panhard bar"?
What do you think the average cost for Springs/shocks,struts/panhard/camber will run installed?? remember nothing crazy as I wont be playing with settings or anything. Just enough to make it right and look good.
What do you think the average cost for Springs/shocks,struts/panhard/camber will run installed?? remember nothing crazy as I wont be playing with settings or anything. Just enough to make it right and look good.
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Steve, all you have is the springs on D-specs and thats it? or you have the camber plates and adj panhard bar"?
What do you think the average cost for Springs/shocks,struts/panhard/camber will run installed?? remember nothing crazy as I wont be playing with settings or anything. Just enough to make it right and look good.
What do you think the average cost for Springs/shocks,struts/panhard/camber will run installed?? remember nothing crazy as I wont be playing with settings or anything. Just enough to make it right and look good.
For a basic setup figure
Springs: $200 +/- depending on choice)
Shocks: $400-$750, (again depending on choice)
GT500 bearings: $80
Camber bolts: $30
Adjustable Panhard: $100-150 (or substitute a watts link for $600)
On installation, none of this is really difficult... Figure 4 hours and some beers, or the equivalent hours X $$ hourly rate at your local tuner or dealer.
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If you're going to upgrade your suspension. IMO I would upgrade everything at once, I've always used Eibach, Steeda or Hotchkis but currently running the Roush Trak Pak coilovers (made by KW suspension) and they're great for their purpose. The coilovers right now are probably one of the best deals running, for 899 or maybe cheaper you get the struts and shocks, springs, strut mounts and camber plates. KW is a good company and if you have any problems what so ever in the future they will rebuild, repair or recondition for a fairly decent price. With that setup you'll need a panhard bar, you can find a used one for cheap or spend about 150 new for a nice adj. one. If you search around you can find good deals. Installation is easy just time cosuming, also if you get coilovers installation is much easier. Just my thoughts.
#11
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My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?
#12
My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?
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ive never been big into doing work on suspension, and havent researched the work much so not sure how easy it would be. Dont you need some job specific tools like spring compressors etc.
#14
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My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?
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My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?
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Suggestion: Talk to Sam Strano at http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbymodel.php?ModelID=35
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My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?
you could cure your traction issues with some new, bigger, sticky tires. i recommend either the nitto invo or the michelin pilot super sport. both tires come in a variety of sizes. personally id go with the michelin, while a little more pricey, they have excellent tire technology and reviews. check them out for yourself on their website or tire rack. now for the next step in improving traction, id start with your rear suspension. id upgrade the lower control arms and get some relocation brackets while youre at it. next id get an adjustable panhard bar and also a relocation bracket for that. next id replace the stock upper control arm with an adjustable one. you would also benefit from some new adjustable a-arms for the front axle and finally some sway bars. now my personal choice on everything but the sway bars would be BMR suspension, they have tons of products for the 2011+ mustangs and theyre reasonably priced. for the sway bars id recommend Eibach. they just released the fully adjustable front/rear sway bars for the 2011 mustang. finally id recommend upgrading your gears to 4.10 and also upgrading your LSD to a Torsen T-2. now! after doing all that, i wouldnt worry too much about any little old maxima beating you off the line. best of luck friend
Last edited by BlackMamba03; 8/1/11 at 07:05 PM.
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