Hey guys if I plan to lower the car with a 1.5" kit what do I need to do it properly? I am not going to be doing any serious road racing where I need a car on rails. This is being done mostly for appearance. I like the Eibachs but open to other stuff. Im really confused with the whole shock/strut changes and all that other stuff. So what exactly would you need to do it the non bootleg way and to avoid problems. Thanks!

Also, is the Magnaflow Catback the only exhaust known to have rubbing issues on a lowered car??

 

i had the eibach pros on my car for a while and disliked the ride alot. Changed over to steeda sports with some Koni's and now love the ride and handling. You will need some camber bolts.

 

What camber bolts did you use? Where did you get them from?

 

You can get em pretty much anywhere (american Muscke, Late model restorations etc.)
Most seem to be the Eibach part. Bout $30

 

napa autoparts

 

I went with the Steeda Sports, not quite the 1.5" you are after but I think it looks good and the ride is decent. I've hit bottom twice so far on some steep drops from driveways. My front air deflector will rub sometimes backing out of my driveway if I go to fast so I am glad I'm not lower. I did not need any camber bolts or plates. I got a adjustable panhard bar but don't think I needed it, so you may be able to skip too. I have not had it aligned yet, runs straight as it did factory new. I got about 2,000 miles since I lowered and no problems with tread wear yet. No exhaust rubbing issues either. I recommend the Tokico D-Specs, but you can get a non-adjustable one and save a few bucks.

 

Doubtful you can get away with a 1.5" drop and NOT need both of these. I went down an inch and my camber went to -1.2 degrees (spec is .75 +/- .50). Rear axle shifted 3/8th of an inch. This gets exaggerated the further you drop the car. Toe also changes pretty substantially too. You may not be showing any wear differences at 2K but you will in the future..

 

Steve, all you have is the springs on D-specs and thats it? or you have the camber plates and adj panhard bar"?

What do you think the average cost for Springs/shocks,struts/panhard/camber will run installed?? remember nothing crazy as I wont be playing with settings or anything. Just enough to make it right and look good.

 

I have FRPP "P" springs, D-Specs, GT500 strut bearings, Camber bolts and a Watts link....

For a basic setup figure
Springs: $200 +/- depending on choice)
Shocks: $400-$750, (again depending on choice)
GT500 bearings: $80
Camber bolts: $30
Adjustable Panhard: $100-150 (or substitute a watts link for $600)

On installation, none of this is really difficult... Figure 4 hours and some beers, or the equivalent hours X $$ hourly rate at your local tuner or dealer.

 

If you're going to upgrade your suspension. IMO I would upgrade everything at once, I've always used Eibach, Steeda or Hotchkis but currently running the Roush Trak Pak coilovers (made by KW suspension) and they're great for their purpose. The coilovers right now are probably one of the best deals running, for 899 or maybe cheaper you get the struts and shocks, springs, strut mounts and camber plates. KW is a good company and if you have any problems what so ever in the future they will rebuild, repair or recondition for a fairly decent price. With that setup you'll need a panhard bar, you can find a used one for cheap or spend about 150 new for a nice adj. one. If you search around you can find good deals. Installation is easy just time cosuming, also if you get coilovers installation is much easier. Just my thoughts.

 

My buddy lowered his (eibach)and it looks great. It handles great and rides good. I wouldn't mind doing the same to mine. however, his initial traction from a dig went completely out the window. Alot of my playing is red light to red light and I don't want to get smoked by a maxima. What would cure that traction issue?

 

That's exactly what is holding me back. I'd love to have a slightly lower setup, that handled like on rails, and still pull a good 60' at the track.

 

ive never been big into doing work on suspension, and havent researched the work much so not sure how easy it would be. Dont you need some job specific tools like spring compressors etc.

 

better, wider tires worked for me.

 

yes or you can take your struts to a local shop and they can swap out your old springs for you. I would get new struts that are suited for the new lowering springs.

 

I've heard that relocation brackets will cure wheel hop, but I don't have any experience with them.

 

Suggestion: Talk to Sam Strano at http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbymodel.php?ModelID=35

 

you could cure your traction issues with some new, bigger, sticky tires. i recommend either the nitto invo or the michelin pilot super sport. both tires come in a variety of sizes. personally id go with the michelin, while a little more pricey, they have excellent tire technology and reviews. check them out for yourself on their website or tire rack. now for the next step in improving traction, id start with your rear suspension. id upgrade the lower control arms and get some relocation brackets while youre at it. next id get an adjustable panhard bar and also a relocation bracket for that. next id replace the stock upper control arm with an adjustable one. you would also benefit from some new adjustable a-arms for the front axle and finally some sway bars. now my personal choice on everything but the sway bars would be BMR suspension, they have tons of products for the 2011+ mustangs and theyre reasonably priced. for the sway bars id recommend Eibach. they just released the fully adjustable front/rear sway bars for the 2011 mustang. finally id recommend upgrading your gears to 4.10 and also upgrading your LSD to a Torsen T-2. now! after doing all that, i wouldnt worry too much about any little old maxima beating you off the line. best of luck friend