I want to replace the stock LCA's on my 2012 Brembo GT, but can't decide on which ones I want to get.

I want to get rid of the wheel hop in my car, but don't want a massive increase in NVH.

I'm between the FR500C ford ones, and the UPI standard poly ones.

I'm not interested in billet milled pieces. I want tubular ones.

Does anyone have any experience with them?



The UPI ones are half the price, but I have read about an increase in NVH. I know the FR500C ones have no NVH, but if I can save some money, I will.

 

Have you looked into BMR? They have a couple different options for tubular sets and are resonably priced.

 

I've really like my 'J&M Extreme Joint'....had them on my '06 and now on my '12...If you look you'll see that many other folks have them as well...

Dh

 

I recommend and sell/use only UMI or Steeda.

The "trick" 3 piece urethane bushings are mostly hype. Urethane is sticky (hence why you need to lube it). Urethane on urethane doesn't want to slide. The UMI roto-joints use a chromed steel center section (with adapter bushings as part of the unit, not added later), and delrin races. Delrin is a harder, and self-lubricating plastic. It allows the ball to articulate freely. The idea behind a 3 piece bushing is fine, but in function it's still all urethane, and urethane is sticky.

Here is an example of one type of Mustang arms I carry.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35


Here is a roto-joint blown apart so you can see what it looks like.
http://www.stranoparts.com/data/images/p70225122858.jpg

And there is a wrench you can get to adjust or use to rebuild (if you want or need to ever) the roto-joint.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...208&PartID=707

Having said all that.... UMI standard arms work great for wheel-hop issues and don't cost a ton. I sell them for $110. They are available in either red or black (pic listed on my site is red). http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35

 

Great explanation Sam.

So you would recommend the roto-joint for the extra $75 without a doubt? How does the roto-joint effect NVH?

I really want to get rid of wheel hop, or at least reduce it, but I know many of the LCA's can cause major NVH which I am not interested in. Its my DD, so quiet suspension is a must.

 

I have the Steeda, it's quiet and I've had no problems. Works as advertised

 

The standard cheap J&M does a great job. It has the same roll resistance as a stock LCA yet has much better locating qualities. Which means it does not bind up like most poly joints yet stops wheel hop as well as the poly joints. And it doesn't add to the NVH like a metal joint does.

 

Mike I'm in the same boat as you...want to know which ones to get as well.

Just curious what's wrong with the bullet lca?

Hmmmm I like sam's products....I might have to go this route as well. Never even knew about this roto thing.

 

Pretty much any control arm will kill the hop, because the stock arms use rubber bushings that allow more wiggle than most any aftermarket setup. Where the difference in them lies is in articulation and noise.

There are "3-piece" urethane bushings out there that claim to move freely. And while slightly better than a solid urethane setup there is one fatal flaw that everyone seems to overlook. Urethane is sticky, that's why you have to lube it. Get multiple pieces of it working on each other, and it just don't move like you'd want. Furthermore when the center articulates it really forces the outer pieces to flex and urethane is subject to cold-flow (it'll deform over time).

A Roto-joint is a similar idea to a "3 piece" bushing in that it has a central ball that rides in what are bearing races. The difference is the Roto-joint uses a steel, and chromed ball riding in delrin races. Delrin if you don't know is a hard and self-lubricating plastic. Smooth chromed ball riding in hard, slick plastic. See how that would move more freely?????? They also happen to be rebuildable and serviceable too if you want to snug them up or put new delrin races in.

Would I 100% for sure say they are for everyone? No, I can't ever say that (like never say never). Some folks don't care if the ride is harder and the axle less able to articulate, or just like the lower price of the all poly versions. If they really don't drive the car hard in corners, and live where the roads are nice and smooth then I can't say that's not the better plan for them. But, like anything, the more you demand from the car/parts the more you want something that can do multiple things better.

 

Sam, I see you sell these single adjustable UMI LCA's: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35
If I am planning on remaining at stock height, what advantages or disadvantages would there be to go with these adjustable units vs non-adjustable with similar urethane bushings?

 

Good question. I have a similar post going on S197 w/ some good info

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71235

 

I've always understood Billet LCAs to be quieter than tubular, without considering the bushings. They're a little more money, but not that much more. I recently added BBR billet LCAs ( http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbr-0506-001.html ), CHE anti-squat brackets and J & M adjustable panhard bar to my SGT, and I'm very happy with the new setup.

Before I had lots of wheel hop, as well as squatting while launching. I haven't been to the drag strip since the install, but the difference should be night and day. Since the install the backend feels much tighter and more responsive. During hard acceleration there's no more squatting. In fact the opposite occurs, which feels kind of old school, like back in the days when I had traction bars installed. I also have a Steeda adjustable upper control arm to install, which I will likely do after cooler temps arrive in So FL. I've installed an UCA before, and they're not much fun on jack stands.

Here's some photos after the install.

 

I like the way that looks. I may go that route.

 

Soflo5gt. I like your setup. Are those CHE squat brackets the same as relocation brackets and do they work better and do the same? Also most people are saying to weld them in, there's a thread on svtperformance where UMI relocation brackets busted from either not welding or the product failed. And did you paint them blue? Thanks

 

The absolute easiest way to eliminate wheel hop and keep your factory ride quality with no noise is no go with the Roush upper arm. I installed mine yesterday and it completely eliminated my wheel hop issue.

 

Almost sure I'm going with the UMI anti-hop kit and going to see what that does on the stock suspension. Will be lowering it next year, which should also help.

 

FR500Cs here and couldn't be happier.

 

Sam, I see you sell these single adjustable UMI LCA's: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...201&ModelID=35
If I am planning on remaining at stock height, what advantages or disadvantages would there be to go with these adjustable units vs non-adjustable with similar urethane bushings?

 

Steeda's Chrome Moly alloy steel rear lower trailing arms directly replace the stamped steel OE parts. These lightweight yet super strong 4130 chrome moly alloy arms reduce un-sprung weight, eliminate wheel hop, and are twice as strong as competitors basic mild steel arms.

Steeda was first to market with trailing arms and had them on the shelves even before the S197 Mustang was released thanks to our exclusive technology transfer program with Ford Motor Company. Steeda was the first to incorporate the proper design rear offset for the rear lower trailing arms.

Don't be fooled by other companies claiming to be first with this offset, yet they had their arms on the market months, if not years after we released ours! Steeda's exclusive bushing package also ensures smooth, quiet operation combined with performance. No increase in NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) like competitors arms. Don't settle for anything less than Steeda original innovation. Place your order today!

Product Benefits

• Improves straight line and cornering traction
• Stops wheel hop
• Chrome Moly Steel Construction - twice as strong as competitors steel arms
• Lighter than stock and competitors arms reducing unsprung weight

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-c...d-mustang.html

 

I'd recommend the FR500C arms. Race proven and at $209 retail it's pretty hard to go wrong.

On a different subject........

Can someone tell me what would stop the lower control arm mounts pictured below from rotating around the axis of the attaching bolt allowing the LCA to move back and forth? Seems like a very poorly executed design.