Ronin38

They have found that the majority of the blow-by comes from the passenger side. There is generally not much from the drivers side, except in sustained, high-rpm conditions- like road racing.

97GT12

It has to do with how the PCV system is routed. The side with the valve is going to have most of the vapors as it is the 'exhaust' side. The other side is going to get very little as either back flow when the valve is closed or as a second pass as intake air comes back through.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl616h.htm

Shows a generic routing of the flow.

bones302

JLT is the nicest and cleanest design, in my opinion.

just and FYI if you have/will buy one. if you get a kit with the plastic ports screwed into the canister, call up JLT and have them send you the metal ones (it's free). the plastic ones WILL fail after a short time (once you try to empty the canister once or twice)

2012GTCS

Thanks for the info man. Where on LI are u? Go to any meets or any hang out spots?!

bones302

not really. don't even know where half the meets are. i'm in central nassau. I know you're in south nassau

chronos

I agree that you should get a catch can for sure. I never had one before and after doing extensive reading and research I have been adding it to all my cars. I will be adding one to the wife's car very soon. The blow by on all these engines is ridiculous. After just a few hundred miles you will see that oil build up in the separator. If you really want to have some bling you can buy some nice engraved can and add that to your car. I was going more for the less expensive and stealth look (stock look) so I have made the cans myself. It's easy and only cost me around $20 per can. I painted it flat black so you barely even notice it's there, and if you do, it looks like it came with the car.

You only need the separator on the side of the engine with the vacuum sucking the oil into the intake. The other side is passive so it will not blow any oil into the intake. Since the vacuum is sucking the vapors out of one side of the motor, the other side needs to have clean air replace the lost air, thus no oil leaks out. Just a passive way for air to get back into the crank case.

bones302

https://themustangsource.com/f722/fs...r-side-502105/

bud4au01

after talking to a ford tech friend of mine....he says it's a complete waste of money. If it was a supercharged car, maybe, but the regular 5.0 Mustang...waste of money.

BlackOut2k11

Tell your friend he's wrong. These things really work. I pull out a decent amount of oil from my seperator every couple hundred miles, I sure as hell wouldn't want that **** in my intake.

chronos

A lot of people have told me the same thing, but when you see that sludge pouring out it makes you think twice. Do you want clean gasoline and air burning in your cylinders, or do you want to add caramel to the mix? The answer was pretty easy for me.

MRGTX

Those who are convinced are not easily swayed. The assumption is that oil is getting into the intake manifold which is presumably coking up the intake and diluting the fuel which affects combustion in some negative ways...which is possibly true.

Those who are not convinced think that the problem is being overstated...that the oil that is being pulled into the intake isn't doing any real damage nor impacting the efficiency of the motor in a serious way...and so far, there seems to be no data that says that after a given number of miles, cars that have been run with a catch can in place perform at Y level and cars that didn't run a catch can perform at Z.

ncoonen

Well that's interesting. One of the ports failed on my separator a couple of months ago and they sent me two more plastic bits. At that point I decided that I'd better keep the original hose in my trunk (where a spare tire should be). Maybe I should try again to get replacements.

...ned.

bud4au01

is this something that is just made for this car? and is this the only car that needs it?

chronos

No, this is a generic device that can and should be used on all motors. I started testing it on my old truck (v8). Saw the results and decided to add it to the Mustang. The Mustang puts out twice as much oil than the truck does because of a large hose diameter on the PCV valve I believe. Now I am going to add it to the wife's 4 banger. It is a great device to make any car run smoother.

That was one thing I did notice immediately when I installed it on these two vehicles. They ran quieter and smoother. I guess that would be a bad thing if you want your car to rumble more.

Big Poppa

I have it for the left and right side of the car just for insurance, and I had some extra cash that was burning a hole in my pocket. I also do not believe oil or oil vapors should go into the intake for no reason.

bud4au01

I have owned 4 autos that i had gotten over 200k miles on 3 of them and over 300k miles on the 4th one. I have never used one. I have had numerous car/trucks with over 100k and none of my autos have ever had a motor problem , other than maybe a water pump leak, or a radiator leak. I am pretty sure that they didn't even use any oil . I have owned fords, chevy's, dodges, jeeps, nissans, vw's, pontiac, saturn's, mercedes , toyota's , honda ...i think that about covers it. So i still don't see the need.

97GT12

The catch can does not prevent problems. It's job is to keep the internal passages of the intake system cleaner than they would be without the can. It is unlikely that the deposits (in a normal engine) from the oil etc from the PCV system will ever cause an issue.

It's a waste of money if you don't care what the inside of your engine's intake looks like and a the very tiny losses in power from the deposits over time. If you do care, it is worth the money.

If you take the intake manifolds off those high milage vehicles you'll see the deposits on the inside. They are there. They won't cause problems or failures. But if you want your engine clean inside and out it's much easier to put a catch can in new than it is to disassemble and clean later.

2012GTCS

how'd you know that?!?! haha

chronos

It is a form of preventative maintenance. I can tell you after having FI vehicles with high mileage, they do start to run a little rougher and it's probably due to the deposits. I would try everything short of taking off and cleaning the intake manifold, and it had little effect in improving the rough idle.

The best example I can use would be an old carburetor. For those that remember carburetors, you know after many miles they would get gummed up and need to be cleaned really well, or rebuilt. I think the separator would prevent a similar build up in your intake. In the case of the carbs, the gumming up was caused by gasoline residue. Imagine what oil would so since it wont burn as easily.

VTXFrank

Were any of those 11:1 CR engines with a 7k redline?

I prefer a little extra insurance as opposed to just blowing it off as un-needed technology. Like I said, take your new $30k+ Mustang's TB off and look inside the intake tract. If you want that crap going into the combustion chambers of your engine, then have at it. Lower compression engines, I've never used one and won't. But high compression engines, I will.

Ask yourself this. Does it actually DO something? The obvious answer is yes, it does. If it takes a few years for you to see the cumulative effect of spending $120 now, then is that worth it? IMHO, with the way you're treating this topic, then why change the transmission oil at 50k miles? I've had cars with over 100k on them where the transmission never went out. But then, on the trucks I've had where I changed the oil in the transmission, the trans last 200+k.

Just because you can't *feel* a difference doesn't mean it's not doing a job that needs doing.