Energy Suspension Shifter Stabilizer Bushing installed
9/2/14, 08:08 PM
#41
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Yep, undignified. There was an audible crunch sound, both inside and outside the car, especially when the car was cold. The ES bushing made it better when warm, but still had some noise when you rushed the shift, and when the tranny was cold, it made no difference at all, still crunchy.
9/2/14, 08:09 PM
#42
GT Member
I Missed Len's Video above (Post #39).
That is exactly how it should be done!
I do not consider missed 2-3 shifts so much a result of the bushing or shifter rather overpowering the centering spring with a heavy hand.
It seemed counterintuitive to me at first simply pushing the shifter forward with the palm of my hand without also moving right.
Give it a try. Don't grab the shifter with your fist rather push it forward with your palm as you would with a sequential shifter.
I will go out on a limb and say the factory shifter is very good. Certainly better than any factory shifter I have ever owned or driven in the past.
Last edited by BBM3; 9/2/14 at 08:32 PM.
9/2/14, 08:20 PM
#43
GT Member
Yep, undignified. There was an audible crunch sound, both inside and outside the car, especially when the car was cold. The ES bushing made it better when warm, but still had some noise when you rushed the shift, and when the tranny was cold, it made no difference at all, still crunchy.
Bad practice to do otherwise.
No bushing or shifter will correct that.
9/3/14, 07:12 AM
#44
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
I'm pretty sure I wasn't grabbing it, but I'll get the car out during lunch and make sure to pay attention to how I shift into turd gear.
9/3/14, 08:47 AM
#45
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Technique is only going to get you so far when you allow the shifter box to either remain stationary when the trans torques or move in a direction opposite of how the trans is moving.
9/3/14, 12:11 PM
#46
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EDIT:
I Missed Len's Video above (Post #39).
That is exactly how it should be done!
I do not consider missed 2-3 shifts so much a result of the bushing or shifter rather overpowering the centering spring with a heavy hand.
It seemed counterintuitive to me at first simply pushing the shifter forward with the palm of my hand without also moving right.
Give it a try. Don't grab the shifter with your fist rather push it forward with your palm as you would with a sequential shifter.
I will go out on a limb and say the factory shifter is very good. Certainly better than any factory shifter I have ever owned or driven in the past.
I Missed Len's Video above (Post #39).
That is exactly how it should be done!
I do not consider missed 2-3 shifts so much a result of the bushing or shifter rather overpowering the centering spring with a heavy hand.
It seemed counterintuitive to me at first simply pushing the shifter forward with the palm of my hand without also moving right.
Give it a try. Don't grab the shifter with your fist rather push it forward with your palm as you would with a sequential shifter.
I will go out on a limb and say the factory shifter is very good. Certainly better than any factory shifter I have ever owned or driven in the past.
9/3/14, 01:21 PM
#47
GT Member
That is why I decided to try the Energy Suspension bushing as a quick fix.
It allows the transmission and shifter to rotate while the bushing remains fixed without binding.
I agree that the factory shifter is not that bad and certainly a better shifter than I had on my 2008. With the stock shifter I could make the 2nd to 3rd shift regularly using the palm technique but I was always nervous doing it. Changing out the bracket and shifter made a huge difference and now I can power shift without fear of missing third. Unfortunately I did the bracket and shifter at the same time so I don't know what made the most improvement but I'm guessing the bracket helps the accuracy and the shifter just shortens the throw (although that also might help making more accurate shifts). I think if you're only going to do one it should be the bracket.
Exactly what I was trying to describe.
I tried the Barton 2 post bracket initially and for the reasons Brandon302 noted above I found the bracket was binding under heavy torque.
9/3/14, 06:29 PM
#48
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9/3/14, 07:56 PM
#49
GT Member
9/3/14, 08:37 PM
#50
Bullitt Member
Engine oil is one thing but I don't think you will see any significant change in the trans fluid until you actually drive the car and the gears are actually turning in the fluid.
9/3/14, 09:07 PM
#51
GT Member
Case in point. Drive off when everything is cold vs. driving off after the engine has warmed.
I find the synchronizers work much smoother when I let the engine warm first and they quickly become seamless after driving a few miles.
9/3/14, 09:16 PM
#52
Bullitt Member
Well, I think you would be waiting awhile to see a significant change in the trans fluid at idle from convection and conduction. Driving it easy for the first few miles would do the trick and I doubt it would harm anything if you drove it without waiting a long while for the trans fluid to warm up. To each his own I guess.
Just curious - how long do you allow the car to warm up to get your trans fluid warm?
Just curious - how long do you allow the car to warm up to get your trans fluid warm?
9/3/14, 09:42 PM
#54
GT Member
Well, I think you would be waiting awhile to see a significant change in the trans fluid at idle from convection and conduction. Driving it easy for the first few miles would do the trick and I doubt it would harm anything if you drove it without waiting a long while for the trans fluid to warm up. To each his own I guess.
Just curious - how long do you allow the car to warm up to get your trans fluid warm?
Just curious - how long do you allow the car to warm up to get your trans fluid warm?
My point as I stated in an earlier post is that I do not think any bushing or shifter is a cure for the rough (lakeguy77 calls "undignified" "crunchy") 1-2, 3-4 shifts caused by the synchronizers not working optimally in transmission fluid that is at less than normal operating temperature.
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