Blown CS

Im another VMP owner and it drives stock until you give it some juice.
I think the car inn the video has an agressive tune since VMP said to expect 30-40 more hp out of 15.

Stage_3

Yeah,......I'm assuming it is more of an aggressive tune at only 10lbs. of boost and pump gas to run 9's at that trap speed. Pretty impressive.

Blown CS

Don't get me wrong, it was a sweet run and hauling booty.

5LHO

It's a great driving tune and perks up the auto shifting nicely. Not much more to be said.

So, today I ordered a jug kit for the car. NX kit with BBR tune. I think this'll serve since, I really only need the extra power at the dragstrip a few times a year anyway. Easy install is a given on N20, as is the solid thump of torque the jug provides, which should really help my 60 foot on the stock converter. I'm going to pill it for 100 hit, as that, in and of itself is likely to have me bumping into the cage limit. I did 11.91 on my previous 2012 5.0 on only a 91 octane FRPP tune and a sticky tire.

FromZto5

Regrets? hmmmm only that I didn't do it sooner. Absolutely no regrets. The Dark Side beckoned, and I answered the call

That being said, Gabe is right... do all the supporting mods to enjoy it fully. Tires, suspension, shifter, and the rest of the engine mods.

I have a maggie and am pushing ~9.5 lbs of boost with a JDM custom tune. I'm at 575 whp. Have enjoyed it for 3 years.

LEXiiON

Regrets? Only when i put the Roush TVS on. Never got it tuned right (after two different tunes and 6 revisions). But the power was nice. I pulled it off, sold it and decided to go for a Trinity TVS with some aluminum chunk attached to it...

No regrets on that one... It's insane

LEXiiON
Now and how it used to look....

sqidd

IMO the only time it's a mistake is if you're going to be doing track days. You don't need (and most don't want) the power, they add weight/complexity and they are hard to keep cool.

FromZto5

^ agree. No tracking or racing for me ever. So no regrets. Juts a barely driven street car, and mostly a show car. But when I want to blow the doors (legally) of most cars on the street, I can do so, any time.

dohc97

Question for you guys using a tvs blower. I am interested in getting a Roush phase 1 on my 14 GT sometime this year. My previous Mustang was a 97 Cobra I bought new in 1997. I had a Vortech blower installed in it by a local speed shop. It ran hot if I get stuck even in mild traffic. I eventually had to sell it. Are you guys experiencing any hot running cars? I plan to stay with the Roush tune, and definitely no track days for me.

FromZto5

No heat issues in traffic or otherwise. You should be fine.

5.M0NSTER

^ THIS.

With 420hp the last issue I have at the track is not enough power. Being able to put the hammer down earlier is an issue, and being able to maintain more speed in the corners in another.

tom281

No heating issues with mine. The roush calibration has been great.... idle, part throttle around town, full throttle in the country has been spot on. Only occasionally on tip in in low speed situations have I had some brief hesitation but maybe only two or three times ever.

MRGTX

I'll play devil's advocate here-

The sensation of acceleration is subjective. There was a time when a 6 second 0-60 run was the stuff of elite performance machines. A street car that ran in the 13s in the 1/4 mile was to be feared. This is now base model/rental grade Mustang performance!

So adding a blower will make the car quicker but you will get used to it. It's never enough! You'll still have the bragging rights about the numbers you can put down but there will always be someone faster than you.

What you're left with is a car with a bunch of added complexity and weight, that's eating in the margin of durability of the components (it's gonna break stuff), it's going to eat way more fuel and you'll have to pay $7,000+ for the kit alone, nevermind the mods you really have to buy to make use of them.

I've never supercharged a Mustang...but I did add a turbo to a Miata. I had a pair of Miatas at the time: One was a 1997 with shocks/springs/sway bars/sticky tires only... The other was a 2000 LS/Evo Orange (one of 640 in the US) that got a SCCA legal roll bar, full coil over, the widest tires I could fit under the wheel wells, a huge radiator, etc...It was a slingshot. 2400lbs, 250hp to the ground...it was probably as quick as a stock 5.0L but it felt WAY faster...at least for a while.

I drove it for a couple of years and sold it. The nearly stock one was almost as much fun.

MKMotorsport

You should head out to HPR (High Plains Raceway) and observe.... since you are in CO, they have winter sessions almost every weekend.

You should spend ALL your money on suspension and brakes, and NONE on a supercharger if you want to keep up with those guys. These cars already make 400+, that is more than plenty for a road course until your driving skills are WAY up there. Hardly see any Mustangs at all there, and the ones you see, are getting eaten alive by most everything on the track(90% with LESS HP), including Miata's, LOL. Personally I wouldn't run a power adder on a road course car. You will just make the car more unreliable and finicky (think heat soak pounding it lap after lap). Do a bolt on N/A power setup, spend the rest on suspension. my .02...

MRGTX

+1

My NA ~100rwhp Miata would keep up with Vettes and 911s on the autocross course. Yeah, it usually came down to driver but the Miata wasn't holding me back when I got beat. It was my mediocre skills.

In my first few events, running with other novice drivers, I was always at the top of the pack, even against some pretty high end machinery. It was so much fun! Once they moved me over to the (very competitive) CSP class, I was mid pack...those guys are brutally good.

The point is: Never underestimate the capabilities of a responsive, forgiving, well balanced platform.

A good handling car will basically make the contents of your pants grow. You'll push deeper into corners and get on the throttle sooner on the way out and you carry that speed right into the straights.

sqidd

You guys are mistaken. Do you have IAT readouts on your cars? You're probably sitting at about 120-140deg under normal driving. The car starts pulling timing at 136deg. So yeah, that's too hot.

ford20

Am I correct in my thinking on this in regards to FI engines on track cars?

#1 heat. These cars already run hot as is so slapping a giant heat generator to your engine is not going to be a good thing. You can't just add a big intercooler and run 30 minute sessions on track. This isn't your DD where you are going to run 300 miles on the highway. This is actual racing. Additional heat is also a very bad thing for your motor, your oil, and your bearings. The only person I know to have done this was you on the Blue car and you had ridiculous amounts of cooling and intercoolers etc. to get it to stay cool while running hard. Brian Faessler also runs a turbo on his TTU Mustang, but his cooling setup is reminiscent of that you would see in a drag setup at least in his 2014 Mustang. I would have to see what his 2015 looks like

#2 weight. You are putting an extra 100+lbs. On your car in the worst place you can add the additional weight. This is all fine and dandy if you are a weekend cruiser or you are running on strip, but on course just think about a) what that additional weight is going to do to a car that weighs 3500+ lbs. already b) what that weight is going to do to your handling being on the nose end of your car.

#3 power delivery. I guess that is where the centrifugal and turbos come into play as the better options more so than the roots style blowers. Power delivery is now worse because instead of being able to come out of a turn and lay into the throttle to get the car to stick and pull through the corner you have to try and feather the throttle in order to get the tires to stick and not blow off and send your *** end sliding.

sqidd

You're correct, anything short of "full blown race car" is not going to stay remotely cool.

Yes, that 100# makes a difference.

I don't see the power delivery of a PD blower being an issue. It's a throttle, not an on/off switch. I come from superbikes though. Going WOT while turning results in an instant high side and broken bones. You learn throttle control, or you don't last very long.

FromZto5

Sqidd... We've talked about this before. I agreed with you then and I agree with you now. . I said I have "no heat issues". I'm not saying FI cars don't run hotter than NA cars. My point is that there's no ill effect to me because I don't track or race for it to be an issue. If on the street, at times, I'm not getting all 575 whp, I'm quite ok with that. Lol.

So again, does it get hot? Sure. Do I have heat issues? No.

MKMotorsport

This!!

Nothing would be more embarrassing than showing up with your "600 hp" mustang, then getting your doors blown off by a 4 cyl clapped out primer grey Miata; but I guarantee that will happen by slapping a supercharger on and not doing much else.

If you listen to pit chatter, these guys hate nothing more than a dope with a high HP modded up "muscle car" with pretty much stock suspension, that passes people on the one big straightway, then is in everyones way through the entire rest of the track in all the cornering and braking zones. Don't be this guy!!!! Get out of the way and yield!!! Just cause you passed someone on the straightaway with all those big HP does not entitle you to be a "track bully" and be in other's way the entire rest of the way around the track! Seen this scenario play out over and over again... Just be mindful of that. Most vehicles you run into in that kind of setting will out handle and brake even a very well prepped mustang, as a "stockish" or bolt on suspension car, be mindful you are simply going to be "in the way", ALOT!!

/rant off.

Before my car gets too far straight line biased I want to run some laps there and learn from some of these guys lines