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11-13 5.0 Break-In Procedure?

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Old 2/15/13, 09:54 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
Wait.. You mean to tell me the people that designed the engine know how to properly break it in too? Blasphemy!!!
I know it's weird, those darn manuals with all the pertinent info ha.
Old 2/15/13, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Numanshahid87
I believe i have found something. Quoting from the manual 'You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 mi (480 km). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unique driving characteristics. Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 mi (1600 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine. Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 km).'

Change up through gears early? In an auto transmission?
Try to get it to shift before 3k at least, should be able to if you stop accelerating, don't drive an auto.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../12musbs1e.pdf
That may be different then the GT but might be a better procedure.
Old 2/15/13, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by conv_stang

I was at the drag strip with 100 miles on it. I changed the oil to full synthetic at 500, and change it every 5000 after that. 18,000 and still running like a scalded dog
I wasn't at the track but might as well been. Changed the oil to a base 4 synthetic at 1000 miles, again at 5k and 10k. Now I just go by the onboard system which looks like it will be every 9-10k. I have 17,000mi. now. steeda 93 octane tune/cai since 1000 miles; couldn't be stronger, never a hiccup.

I have always broke in my newly built motors on a dyno as soon as i put them together. I didnt drive them x amount of miles before i took my 347 notch to the track. So this "dont do this and dont do that above this rpm" is not correct. Well let me rephrase, side stepping the clutch or boiling the tires to the rim driving it off of the lot isn't wrong. The cars will hold up unless there's a flaw in the build.
Old 2/17/13, 02:33 PM
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I drove it hard from day one. Modern motors are broken in at the factory. The "motor break in" belief comes from two places. One is shop built motors need to go through heat cycles. So people assume that any new motor needs it. Two is the OEM wants to have sanctuary from defects. If something screws up in the first few hundred miles they can blame it on poor break in.

Ultimately you can drive it how you want. There really isn't a right or wrong because neither will hurt it.
Old 2/18/13, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by typesredline
I drove it hard from day one. Modern motors are broken in at the factory. The "motor break in" belief comes from two places. One is shop built motors need to go through heat cycles. So people assume that any new motor needs it. Two is the OEM wants to have sanctuary from defects. If something screws up in the first few hundred miles they can blame it on poor break in.

Ultimately you can drive it how you want. There really isn't a right or wrong because neither will hurt it.
Well spoken.
Old 2/18/13, 02:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by typesredline
I drove it hard from day one. Modern motors are broken in at the factory. The "motor break in" belief comes from two places. One is shop built motors need to go through heat cycles. So people assume that any new motor needs it. Two is the OEM wants to have sanctuary from defects. If something screws up in the first few hundred miles they can blame it on poor break in.

Ultimately you can drive it how you want. There really isn't a right or wrong because neither will hurt it.
2010 Camaro drove sh*T out of it ran great from day one till sold . 2013 GT bought from dealer. Dealer sales manager drove it had 2,800 miles on it. Drove it a few times once hard, put it in the garage for winter wife drove one day last week because the car hadn't been drove in 5 weeks, can't wait till spring to beat the sh*t out of it. I hope the dealer did a good job breaking it in .
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