Modifying my Mustang. Project Rocket Robyn
3/25/14, 01:49 PM
#81
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After a few days of having problems with my computer and internet connection I finally have it sorted and managed to post a video of the new FRPP X-pipe paired with my Steeda cold air intake. Right now it's set to the 87 octane tune for winter but it will be adjusted in a few weeks. Might even sound more aggressive. You can also see a better view of the new splash guards. They are doing their job as the dirt and water lines are further back on the valence not the paint.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aXRe...ature=youtu.be
I will get the pics up as soon as the weather co-operates.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aXRe...ature=youtu.be
I will get the pics up as soon as the weather co-operates.
sounds good man, cant stand to see the stang in the snow tho!! lol
3/25/14, 02:01 PM
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She's my DD and I hate the snow too. I gotta say though, she's taking it like a trooper! When I get my spoiler and DS I'll be giving her a complete detail underneath and inside as well.
I've also considered blacking out the faux gas cap and painting the mufflers matte black to match. For the price of new axle backs I can replace my rear brakes and I need those soon.
I've also considered blacking out the faux gas cap and painting the mufflers matte black to match. For the price of new axle backs I can replace my rear brakes and I need those soon.
3/25/14, 02:02 PM
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I think at that moment my brain went into self preservation mode and I remember thinking if I chase him and catch him I'd actually hurt this kid, he looked about 14. 
I did shout several profanities at him and something about hoping he never sees me again. Actually had a hard time sleeping that night thinking, are these mods worth it just to be destroyed by punk kids and their jealousy. I'm still waiting for my chrome valve stem caps to disappear. About the centre caps I really do like the chrome ones and they are $100.00 for the four. Next winter I'll spring for them. 
I'm ordering the Aluminum Driveshaft tonight and it should be delivered in about 10 days. AM ships it to Steeda so I can grab it locally and if there are any issues Steeda sends it back without any hassle, plus they don't up charge me on the price, just convert the funds. If anyone has any tips on the install they would be appreciated, as I will be installing it in my driveway on stands.
I did shout several profanities at him and something about hoping he never sees me again. Actually had a hard time sleeping that night thinking, are these mods worth it just to be destroyed by punk kids and their jealousy. I'm still waiting for my chrome valve stem caps to disappear. About the centre caps I really do like the chrome ones and they are $100.00 for the four. Next winter I'll spring for them. I'm ordering the Aluminum Driveshaft tonight and it should be delivered in about 10 days. AM ships it to Steeda so I can grab it locally and if there are any issues Steeda sends it back without any hassle, plus they don't up charge me on the price, just convert the funds. If anyone has any tips on the install they would be appreciated, as I will be installing it in my driveway on stands.
4/7/14, 12:30 PM
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She's my DD and I hate the snow too. I gotta say though, she's taking it like a trooper! When I get my spoiler and DS I'll be giving her a complete detail underneath and inside as well.
I've also considered blacking out the faux gas cap and painting the mufflers matte black to match. For the price of new axle backs I can replace my rear brakes and I need those soon.
I've also considered blacking out the faux gas cap and painting the mufflers matte black to match. For the price of new axle backs I can replace my rear brakes and I need those soon.
good to hear man! ya I giver her a undercarriage detail regardless every so often..keep her fresh! I was actually thinking to black out my FRPP axle-back tips but I like the chrome with the details of the engraved ford logo too!
4/10/14, 09:03 AM
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I normally give her a detail over the winter months but this last few weeks was so bad that the crap was really piling up. But the good news is winter is gone and it's time to pretty her up.
My RTR spoiler arrived last week and the drive shaft is being shipped as it had to be made. I also ordered BMR rear swaybar endlinks and SR adjustable front endlinks. They should be sent this week some time. The local performance shop had a sale this weekend but they rarely stock any late model Mustang parts. I did grab a can of Plasti-dip for the rear cap and some nice flat black exhaust paint. I'll be painting next weekend as I only get Saturday to play.
I figure this weekend will be wash, wax, wheels, rad fluid flush and fresh brake and clutch fluid. The wife will be bored but I can send her out to get Blinker fluid for me, that should keep her occupied.
My RTR spoiler arrived last week and the drive shaft is being shipped as it had to be made. I also ordered BMR rear swaybar endlinks and SR adjustable front endlinks. They should be sent this week some time. The local performance shop had a sale this weekend but they rarely stock any late model Mustang parts. I did grab a can of Plasti-dip for the rear cap and some nice flat black exhaust paint. I'll be painting next weekend as I only get Saturday to play.
I figure this weekend will be wash, wax, wheels, rad fluid flush and fresh brake and clutch fluid. The wife will be bored but I can send her out to get Blinker fluid for me, that should keep her occupied.
4/10/14, 12:22 PM
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I normally give her a detail over the winter months but this last few weeks was so bad that the crap was really piling up. But the good news is winter is gone and it's time to pretty her up. My RTR spoiler arrived last week and the drive shaft is being shipped as it had to be made. I also ordered BMR rear swaybar endlinks and SR adjustable front endlinks. They should be sent this week some time. The local performance shop had a sale this weekend but they rarely stock any late model Mustang parts. I did grab a can of Plasti-dip for the rear cap and some nice flat black exhaust paint. I'll be painting next weekend as I only get Saturday to play. I figure this weekend will be wash, wax, wheels, rad fluid flush and fresh brake and clutch fluid. The wife will be bored but I can send her out to get Blinker fluid for me, that should keep her occupied.
Shes learning though!
4/14/14, 11:52 AM
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That was a great weekend to play with the car. Spent the entire day Saturday changing fluids and putting on her summer shoes.
I started with swapping out the clutch fluid by draining the reservoir with a turkey baster and refilling it with fresh DOT 4. After pumping the clutch about 40 times I drained the fluid again and refilled. I repeated this process until there was little to no particulate in the reservoir. About 4 times. The clutch is much firmer now, back to new again.
The next step was a radiator flush. Simple enough. Just use a 3/4" socket to remove the plastic plug. It isn't a long thread but it does have a small o-ring on it and you have to pull it out or it will just spin in place while fluid runs all over your lower valence. I used a couple of catch pans to make sure I got all the fluid running around the front end. After it was drained I just used distilled water to flush the system by filling and letting the car get to temperature and then letting it cool to drain the water. Did this twice to get all the old fluids out of the block and refilled with fresh coolant. Be careful not to over tighten the plug as it is only plastic and looks kind of fragile. There was also some sandy build up inside the coolant reservoir that is common on these cars, so I just took a small brush and cleaned it before the first drain.
Final step was to change the brake fluid starting at the rear passenger wheel. The speed bleeders I installed last year are a God send. Hook up a drain line loosen the bleeder, pump the brakes refill the reservoir and tighten it back up. About 30 minutes to do all four and pop on my summer wheels. While I did this I also installed the brushed aluminum centre caps from AM to replace the plastic stock ones.
I enjoyed a day in the sun with my baby and she feels new again.
I started with swapping out the clutch fluid by draining the reservoir with a turkey baster and refilling it with fresh DOT 4. After pumping the clutch about 40 times I drained the fluid again and refilled. I repeated this process until there was little to no particulate in the reservoir. About 4 times. The clutch is much firmer now, back to new again.
The next step was a radiator flush. Simple enough. Just use a 3/4" socket to remove the plastic plug. It isn't a long thread but it does have a small o-ring on it and you have to pull it out or it will just spin in place while fluid runs all over your lower valence. I used a couple of catch pans to make sure I got all the fluid running around the front end. After it was drained I just used distilled water to flush the system by filling and letting the car get to temperature and then letting it cool to drain the water. Did this twice to get all the old fluids out of the block and refilled with fresh coolant. Be careful not to over tighten the plug as it is only plastic and looks kind of fragile. There was also some sandy build up inside the coolant reservoir that is common on these cars, so I just took a small brush and cleaned it before the first drain.
Final step was to change the brake fluid starting at the rear passenger wheel. The speed bleeders I installed last year are a God send. Hook up a drain line loosen the bleeder, pump the brakes refill the reservoir and tighten it back up. About 30 minutes to do all four and pop on my summer wheels. While I did this I also installed the brushed aluminum centre caps from AM to replace the plastic stock ones.
I enjoyed a day in the sun with my baby and she feels new again.
4/29/14, 02:13 PM
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Here's a shot of the splash guard from the GT500. Really does make a difference protecting the rear end. Still waiting for the DS. Making it and shipping take about 6 weeks.
4/29/14, 05:13 PM
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5/3/14, 12:12 AM
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I start this entry with a bad taste in my mouth for Steeda Motor Sports. I have pictures listed below, so please take a look.
I was blown away at what I saw several weeks ago when I decided to do my spring tune-up.
It wasn't until I changed my wheels that I saw the extent of the damage. First of all let me say I am shocked that the Steeda sway bars, lower control arms and pan hard bar are so poorly finished.
I showed my local rep the damage and they contacted their rep, but I got the typical reply that I was not going to get any help because of the nature of the Canadian winter. I do not buy that. I take care of my car and it shows. There is absolutely no rust on her, the under body finishing on factory parts is still gloss black, the engine bay is kept clean, but they insist it's my fault.
When I completely inspected the parts I saw rust starting on the right side of the front sway bar and the adjustable ends have completely split and the rust is under the bolts for the endlinks. The LCA's have rust where the bushing fits in, the pan hard bar has spotting and the rear sway bar is a complete joke!
It is so bad that my rear end now knocks and creaks like a farm truck and I am disgusted with the purchase. I told Steeda that if they did not fix it, as I replace parts I will display theirs right next to the car. No dice!
So I considered my options. With paying off a major house renovation, raising a toddler and making my spring upgrades, I can not afford new parts. But I can afford to tear it all out and send it out for powder coating. There is a local shop that did a '64 Falcon body for me 25 years ago, so I am sure they can help me. I ordered new front endlinks as you know but they are on back order for at least 2 weeks from AM. The rears are coming from BMR and fit the Steeda 7/8" diameter.
I am actually looking forward to the tear down. I have all the original parts to reinstall while the bits and pieces are being painted. Taking the bushings apart is easy enough and I can get new fasteners so there is no contamination.
The fun part is now choosing a colour. I know I am limited with powder coating but I am sure there is a cool colour match. Might as well do the strut brace while I am at it.
If any Steeda reps see this and care to PM me I am all ears!
I was blown away at what I saw several weeks ago when I decided to do my spring tune-up.
It wasn't until I changed my wheels that I saw the extent of the damage. First of all let me say I am shocked that the Steeda sway bars, lower control arms and pan hard bar are so poorly finished.
I showed my local rep the damage and they contacted their rep, but I got the typical reply that I was not going to get any help because of the nature of the Canadian winter. I do not buy that. I take care of my car and it shows. There is absolutely no rust on her, the under body finishing on factory parts is still gloss black, the engine bay is kept clean, but they insist it's my fault.
When I completely inspected the parts I saw rust starting on the right side of the front sway bar and the adjustable ends have completely split and the rust is under the bolts for the endlinks. The LCA's have rust where the bushing fits in, the pan hard bar has spotting and the rear sway bar is a complete joke!
It is so bad that my rear end now knocks and creaks like a farm truck and I am disgusted with the purchase. I told Steeda that if they did not fix it, as I replace parts I will display theirs right next to the car. No dice!
So I considered my options. With paying off a major house renovation, raising a toddler and making my spring upgrades, I can not afford new parts. But I can afford to tear it all out and send it out for powder coating. There is a local shop that did a '64 Falcon body for me 25 years ago, so I am sure they can help me. I ordered new front endlinks as you know but they are on back order for at least 2 weeks from AM. The rears are coming from BMR and fit the Steeda 7/8" diameter.
I am actually looking forward to the tear down. I have all the original parts to reinstall while the bits and pieces are being painted. Taking the bushings apart is easy enough and I can get new fasteners so there is no contamination.
The fun part is now choosing a colour. I know I am limited with powder coating but I am sure there is a cool colour match. Might as well do the strut brace while I am at it.
If any Steeda reps see this and care to PM me I am all ears!
5/3/14, 12:27 AM
#91
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Wow...although I'll say your exhaust looks pretty beat up too. Everything all looks to have the same level or surface rust/corrosion. That's not any excuse for Steeda though...
Last edited by laserred38; 5/3/14 at 09:41 AM.
5/3/14, 12:38 AM
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The stock exhaust will look like that over time...155,000 kms. The rest is just really dirty from all the rain we've been getting. I will post more pics when I get it all apart.
5/6/14, 04:10 PM
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wow did not expect that! ..when I ordered my Steeda parts brand new the quality always looks unbelievable! Our weather can deff cause a lot of wear and tear but I would have thought they could take it better? My parts are fine but then again its been in rain like once and never winter driven. Was your vehicle rust checked?
I was thinking of purchasing an adjustable sway bar kit very soon..would you still recommend? I have had nothing but good experiences with Steeda so far!
My question is do you guys think the same would happen to other manufacture parts when exposed to these elements?? hmm
I was thinking of purchasing an adjustable sway bar kit very soon..would you still recommend? I have had nothing but good experiences with Steeda so far!
My question is do you guys think the same would happen to other manufacture parts when exposed to these elements?? hmm
Last edited by AngrySmurf; 5/6/14 at 04:12 PM.
5/7/14, 12:35 PM
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After talking with the Steeda boys in Milton, I have found out that the set up was installed by a guy that they soon fired for sloppy work. Over tightened the bolts up from causing the split paint on the sway bar, never greased the u joints, which I did after, and so forth. I could go on but it's pointless. I only assembled the Struts and put on the rear sway bar and LCA but they were removed to redo something I never got a clear explanation on. The springs and shocks, struts and bump steer kit still look new.
Things are OK with Steeda, just needed to vent I think. They are giving me cost prices on my next few orders as a makeup I think.
AngrySmurf, I don't see any issues with things for your driving conditions.
Now the good news, I got my RTR on yesterday and I love it! It took about an hour for a friend and I to remove the old carefully, clean the tape off and pop on the new one.
It's a little taller in the rear window but not much. I hope that Friday is clear as I plan on doing the rear cap in time for the show and shine at Steeda.....on Saturday. Hope to see you there AngrySmurf.
Things are OK with Steeda, just needed to vent I think. They are giving me cost prices on my next few orders as a makeup I think.
AngrySmurf, I don't see any issues with things for your driving conditions.
Now the good news, I got my RTR on yesterday and I love it! It took about an hour for a friend and I to remove the old carefully, clean the tape off and pop on the new one.
It's a little taller in the rear window but not much. I hope that Friday is clear as I plan on doing the rear cap in time for the show and shine at Steeda.....on Saturday. Hope to see you there AngrySmurf.
5/9/14, 04:03 PM
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One day before the show this weekend and I am under the car detailing when i can't take it anymore. I yanked the LCA's to clean them and they were utterly destroyed. Bushings were dry as hell and rust everywhere.
Called Steeda and I got a shock. Bring in the parts for a complete swap for the milled aluminum LCA's! Thank you Sean!
Took all of 20 minutes to pop them in. I just have to relocate the parking brake cable.
Pulled out the sway bar too. That's going for powder coat.
So, I do feel much better about things and I can show with pride tomorrow!
Hope to see any locals in Milton around 10 am.
Called Steeda and I got a shock. Bring in the parts for a complete swap for the milled aluminum LCA's! Thank you Sean!
Took all of 20 minutes to pop them in. I just have to relocate the parking brake cable.
Pulled out the sway bar too. That's going for powder coat.
So, I do feel much better about things and I can show with pride tomorrow!
Hope to see any locals in Milton around 10 am.
7/28/14, 12:28 PM
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The reason I haven't posted in a few weeks is because I have been putting funds into a house flip. Not to say I am done modding, not by any means.
I have purchased new Hawk rear pads and EBC rotors to match the front but they are not installed yet. SR front links are on my work bench and I am STILL waiting for the DS to arrive! I'm not pushing it because it would just end up on the back burner till September or so. I have been debating a new clutch and flywheel to go with the DS but that's a few months off.
I feel like I am on the verge of FI at this point considering that I enjoy 300+ ponies but more is better and who is going to argue with me?
I will keep posting, don't worry. I am trying to get a track day in but this summer has not been kind and the house demands my attention.
I have purchased new Hawk rear pads and EBC rotors to match the front but they are not installed yet. SR front links are on my work bench and I am STILL waiting for the DS to arrive! I'm not pushing it because it would just end up on the back burner till September or so. I have been debating a new clutch and flywheel to go with the DS but that's a few months off.
I feel like I am on the verge of FI at this point considering that I enjoy 300+ ponies but more is better and who is going to argue with me?
I will keep posting, don't worry. I am trying to get a track day in but this summer has not been kind and the house demands my attention.
8/29/14, 10:24 AM
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The drive shaft is finally installed! I wish I had done this 2 years ago.
I was seeing fluid spray from the rear diff on the sides of the exhaust pipes and was worried I was losing a seal. After we took off the old shaft it was fluid that had been used to lube the original shaft so it didn't seize on the joint. Really weird. But there is no leak and the new shaft is now in.
First of all, I have to say that this should be a stock part from the factory. The dual mass flywheel vibrations are seriously dampened by this part. Usually I would cruise at 65-70 MPH and my RPM's are around 2500. Prefect spot to vibrate like crazy. Drove me nuts because that's standard cruising speed all the time, but now it's all but gone! I really like the fact I don't have to put it in 6th when I'm doing 50 MPH just to keep it out of that range. Let the RPM's fly!
Second big bonus is the noise reduction. Less rotating noise, and a lot less lash when you dump the clutch. Instant power. So much so that I have to relearn how to launch the car and not burn all the way to second. Got a great video of just that to post later. The gear shifts are smoother too, especially the 1st to 2nd turning left shift. Takes away the crunch.
I did notice a difference in 1/4 mile times as I did a test run the other day. Cold weather and cold tires but still shaved .2 seconds off the average from the month before in very similar conditions.
Fuel mileage has not changed but I really didn't buy it to see an improvement there, just a side note though.
Overall this is an amazing upgrade and really worth the money. Just for the piece of mind over the stock garbage shaft and knowing you can push it means this is the first time in 2 and a half years I have really gotten to open her right up!
Install was done by the shop in under 15 minutes.
I was seeing fluid spray from the rear diff on the sides of the exhaust pipes and was worried I was losing a seal. After we took off the old shaft it was fluid that had been used to lube the original shaft so it didn't seize on the joint. Really weird. But there is no leak and the new shaft is now in.
First of all, I have to say that this should be a stock part from the factory. The dual mass flywheel vibrations are seriously dampened by this part. Usually I would cruise at 65-70 MPH and my RPM's are around 2500. Prefect spot to vibrate like crazy. Drove me nuts because that's standard cruising speed all the time, but now it's all but gone! I really like the fact I don't have to put it in 6th when I'm doing 50 MPH just to keep it out of that range. Let the RPM's fly!
Second big bonus is the noise reduction. Less rotating noise, and a lot less lash when you dump the clutch. Instant power. So much so that I have to relearn how to launch the car and not burn all the way to second. Got a great video of just that to post later. The gear shifts are smoother too, especially the 1st to 2nd turning left shift. Takes away the crunch.
I did notice a difference in 1/4 mile times as I did a test run the other day. Cold weather and cold tires but still shaved .2 seconds off the average from the month before in very similar conditions.
Fuel mileage has not changed but I really didn't buy it to see an improvement there, just a side note though.
Overall this is an amazing upgrade and really worth the money. Just for the piece of mind over the stock garbage shaft and knowing you can push it means this is the first time in 2 and a half years I have really gotten to open her right up!
Install was done by the shop in under 15 minutes.
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