Modifying my Mustang. Project Rocket Robyn
8/25/12, 08:00 PM
#42
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So I have been thinking about the next upgrade and have decided its time she sounded as good as she looks.
No decisions on what exact maker yet but I am leaning towards Magna Flow Street cat back. I am not looking to get pulled by the cops every time I leave a light but I want some throat.
The CAI already gives a throatier tone and I have not heard anyone say what a cat back sounds like with a CAI. Just how good the new pipes are because its generally the first thing they do.
If anyone can suggest something that fits what I want please post it and a link to the sound. I won't go on word alone.
No decisions on what exact maker yet but I am leaning towards Magna Flow Street cat back. I am not looking to get pulled by the cops every time I leave a light but I want some throat.
The CAI already gives a throatier tone and I have not heard anyone say what a cat back sounds like with a CAI. Just how good the new pipes are because its generally the first thing they do.
If anyone can suggest something that fits what I want please post it and a link to the sound. I won't go on word alone.
Last edited by ledsled; 8/27/12 at 02:04 PM.
9/15/12, 06:14 PM
#43
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Got a chance today to get a Dyno Test at the Steeda Show and Shine.
This was well worth the time and money. Not only was I blown away at the numbers but the chatter afterwords was priceless.
I was asked to guess my HP and FT/LBS and tossed out 275 and 260. Watch the video and be as surprised as I was, 301 RWHP and 284 FT/LBS!
That's just the Cold Air Intake and Tune!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ows7Y...ature=youtu.be
I am really impressed with this and now I know I have a good baseline to build on. Exhaust and Coils are next and that should free up another 20 I hope.
The best part of the day was watching the V8 guys picking up their jaws. Even the Dyno guys came over after and said they didn't expect those numbers!
This was well worth the time and money. Not only was I blown away at the numbers but the chatter afterwords was priceless.
I was asked to guess my HP and FT/LBS and tossed out 275 and 260. Watch the video and be as surprised as I was, 301 RWHP and 284 FT/LBS!
That's just the Cold Air Intake and Tune!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ows7Y...ature=youtu.be
I am really impressed with this and now I know I have a good baseline to build on. Exhaust and Coils are next and that should free up another 20 I hope.
The best part of the day was watching the V8 guys picking up their jaws. Even the Dyno guys came over after and said they didn't expect those numbers!
9/21/12, 08:26 AM
#44
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Took a couple pics at the track last month before they closed their Test and Tune events.
Was a cool day and everyone had a hard time getting traction down, but still laid out 13.8's all night long. Getting up to 102.9 mph now too!
Was a cool day and everyone had a hard time getting traction down, but still laid out 13.8's all night long. Getting up to 102.9 mph now too!
2/28/13, 01:00 PM
#45
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The winter is here and I have not had a chance to do much with Robyn, but last month she decided different.
I was traveling my usual commute to work, about 30 km, and on the freeway my drive line banged and started grinding like a rock breaker. The noise was unreal and the car slowed to about 20 so I pulled it off and shut down.
I called my mechanic about 2 minutes away and asked if he could take her in right away. I decided to try and limp her there not knowing what kind of damage was done or being created by driving 5 km. I was convinced that it was the ring gear and my pumpkin was blown. I couldn't get her above 10 km/h and it was incredibly loud.
This is where I started to get good news and bad. First the bad. Across from my mechanic is White Oak Ford, and no I'm not afraid to name them! My guy said to take it there first and let them have it. Take her there, pull in and the mechanic says to me, "What's up?" Apparently the colossal noise didn't speak to him. I told him what happened and he says, "There's no-one in today to look at it, but can you bring it back next week?"
"Ummmm, no?" is all that came out. So I dragged her back across the street and my mechanic says, "Go get the new 3.73's you want, anything you need and bring it back fast."
Now, the good news. I had already purchased the FRPP install kit, fluids, diff cover, and gasket so all I needed was the gears. I jumped in a car and shot over to Steeda in Milton, ON, and they hooked me right up! Thank you Pat, Sean, and Paul for keeping a great stock of parts! I went back to the shop and they already had the diff open. For those of you wondering, there are Car Gods, and they had my back. The diff was fine, it was the pinion bearing on the outer housing that had blown. No, problem, I already have all the parts to change over and it was going to be changed anyway. The bearing was taken out, the gears swapped and all was put back together by the end of the day.
Now for the fun bits. I took it straight to Steeda to have them check it out and Paul, the head mechanic said it sounded good and drove fine. Pat wrote the new tune for me and I was good to go. After that I just babied her for the next 1000km plus all the snow that we've been getting has kept me out of the throttle. Sunday I finally got a chance to play as some of the roads here were dry.
So here is my review of the last few weeks and finally being able to give'er a little:
First gear does wind up faster, but it depends on how hard you start off. Maybe I'm not that hard on my car in stop/start traffic, but even light to light it's not that bad. Now, it is considerably easier to start in second gear and just cruise from there and in the wet and snow it has been a lot easier to get going, and that I didn't expect.
Cruising on the highways and freeways is a little nicer too. The RPM's are up about 300-400 on average but it just puts me closer to the power band of the SCT tune. Doing 120km/h (70mph) before I was at about 2000 RPM and now it's about 2400RPM. It's not noticeable in the cabin, noise wise, and in 6th passing is easier.
Now gas, what everyone wants to know. I have not seen any real difference in mileage. My average fuel consumption has NOT changed on the computer and I have not reset it since the tune for the gears so the numbers are only 3.73 related.
Well we are down to the bits you've been waiting for. SPEED! WOW! She is a little bullet! Off the line she pulls so much harder and shifting into 2nd is quicker at that point. Up into 3rd and she shoots down the road. I have to be careful not to break traction in second as I am driving on winters and I really don't want to destroy them.
I absolutely can not wait until spring when I can get a few runs down the track. I will be purchasing Nitto 17" street radials too for the track and am currently looking for an aluminum drive shaft.
I got some pics of the destroyed parts and of the install as it went with my new diff cover as well as a total list of parts required. Here is the best part. My mechanic only charged me $ 200.00 for the install and I have to say Thank You very much for that. As I said, he is a buddy.
Parts List:
Ford Racing Ring & Pinion Sets (3.73 8.8)
M-4209-88373
$ 225.99
201-8-8 'Ultra' Low-Profile Differential Cover Girdle
201-8-8
$ 166.99
Ring & Pinion Installation Kit
M-4210-B1
$ 151.41
Royal Purple Synthetic Gear Oil (75w140) x 3
$ 23.99 ea.
CXL-3 Friction Modifier Differential Gear Oil Additive
$ 10.99
Lubelocker Differential Cover Gasket (8.8)
$ 26.99
Installation: $ 200.00
All in: $ 854.34
I have to say that after the initial shock of blowing a bearing to getting 3.73's installed without much notice, I LOVE the changes!!!
The pics below are the parts that exploded. Bearing and pinion did not survive but there was no damage inside the housing.
I was traveling my usual commute to work, about 30 km, and on the freeway my drive line banged and started grinding like a rock breaker. The noise was unreal and the car slowed to about 20 so I pulled it off and shut down.
I called my mechanic about 2 minutes away and asked if he could take her in right away. I decided to try and limp her there not knowing what kind of damage was done or being created by driving 5 km. I was convinced that it was the ring gear and my pumpkin was blown. I couldn't get her above 10 km/h and it was incredibly loud.
This is where I started to get good news and bad. First the bad. Across from my mechanic is White Oak Ford, and no I'm not afraid to name them! My guy said to take it there first and let them have it. Take her there, pull in and the mechanic says to me, "What's up?" Apparently the colossal noise didn't speak to him. I told him what happened and he says, "There's no-one in today to look at it, but can you bring it back next week?"
"Ummmm, no?" is all that came out. So I dragged her back across the street and my mechanic says, "Go get the new 3.73's you want, anything you need and bring it back fast."
Now, the good news. I had already purchased the FRPP install kit, fluids, diff cover, and gasket so all I needed was the gears. I jumped in a car and shot over to Steeda in Milton, ON, and they hooked me right up! Thank you Pat, Sean, and Paul for keeping a great stock of parts! I went back to the shop and they already had the diff open. For those of you wondering, there are Car Gods, and they had my back. The diff was fine, it was the pinion bearing on the outer housing that had blown. No, problem, I already have all the parts to change over and it was going to be changed anyway. The bearing was taken out, the gears swapped and all was put back together by the end of the day.
Now for the fun bits. I took it straight to Steeda to have them check it out and Paul, the head mechanic said it sounded good and drove fine. Pat wrote the new tune for me and I was good to go. After that I just babied her for the next 1000km plus all the snow that we've been getting has kept me out of the throttle. Sunday I finally got a chance to play as some of the roads here were dry.
So here is my review of the last few weeks and finally being able to give'er a little:
First gear does wind up faster, but it depends on how hard you start off. Maybe I'm not that hard on my car in stop/start traffic, but even light to light it's not that bad. Now, it is considerably easier to start in second gear and just cruise from there and in the wet and snow it has been a lot easier to get going, and that I didn't expect.
Cruising on the highways and freeways is a little nicer too. The RPM's are up about 300-400 on average but it just puts me closer to the power band of the SCT tune. Doing 120km/h (70mph) before I was at about 2000 RPM and now it's about 2400RPM. It's not noticeable in the cabin, noise wise, and in 6th passing is easier.
Now gas, what everyone wants to know. I have not seen any real difference in mileage. My average fuel consumption has NOT changed on the computer and I have not reset it since the tune for the gears so the numbers are only 3.73 related.
Well we are down to the bits you've been waiting for. SPEED! WOW! She is a little bullet! Off the line she pulls so much harder and shifting into 2nd is quicker at that point. Up into 3rd and she shoots down the road. I have to be careful not to break traction in second as I am driving on winters and I really don't want to destroy them.
I absolutely can not wait until spring when I can get a few runs down the track. I will be purchasing Nitto 17" street radials too for the track and am currently looking for an aluminum drive shaft.
I got some pics of the destroyed parts and of the install as it went with my new diff cover as well as a total list of parts required. Here is the best part. My mechanic only charged me $ 200.00 for the install and I have to say Thank You very much for that. As I said, he is a buddy.
Parts List:
Ford Racing Ring & Pinion Sets (3.73 8.8)
M-4209-88373
$ 225.99
201-8-8 'Ultra' Low-Profile Differential Cover Girdle
201-8-8
$ 166.99
Ring & Pinion Installation Kit
M-4210-B1
$ 151.41
Royal Purple Synthetic Gear Oil (75w140) x 3
$ 23.99 ea.
CXL-3 Friction Modifier Differential Gear Oil Additive
$ 10.99
Lubelocker Differential Cover Gasket (8.8)
$ 26.99
Installation: $ 200.00
All in: $ 854.34
I have to say that after the initial shock of blowing a bearing to getting 3.73's installed without much notice, I LOVE the changes!!!
The pics below are the parts that exploded. Bearing and pinion did not survive but there was no damage inside the housing.
2/28/13, 02:34 PM
#46
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So what caused it to crap out in the first place? And congrats!!! Never replace, always upgrade! Glad the car gods helped you out so nicely. they clearly had other things in mind
Last edited by 06blackvertstang; 2/28/13 at 02:36 PM.
2/28/13, 02:46 PM
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We don't know. 
I just passed 80,000 km and otherwise she is driving fine. The local transmission shop pressed on the new bearing and they told me they had seen a lot of this lately and really didn't offer up a cause. There was absolutely no warning when it happened. Just let go, no squealing or ticking. I don't think it was anything I have done to it as I have had all the work checked by Steeda as I go and she drove fine for 5 months after her last pass. I really hope it doesn't have something to do with the drive shaft wobble at 2,500 RPM. Maybe it slowly destroys the bearing but like I said before, the very next upgrade is a DS and I am currently saving for it.
Please let money start growing on trees.
I just passed 80,000 km and otherwise she is driving fine. The local transmission shop pressed on the new bearing and they told me they had seen a lot of this lately and really didn't offer up a cause. There was absolutely no warning when it happened. Just let go, no squealing or ticking. I don't think it was anything I have done to it as I have had all the work checked by Steeda as I go and she drove fine for 5 months after her last pass. I really hope it doesn't have something to do with the drive shaft wobble at 2,500 RPM. Maybe it slowly destroys the bearing but like I said before, the very next upgrade is a DS and I am currently saving for it. Please let money start growing on trees.
4/6/13, 08:08 PM
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Stainless steel brake hoses and high volume clutch line
We finally had a sliver of nice weather today and thought it was a good time to install my new Joe Heck Racing high volume clutch line and Russell stainless steel hoses and speed bleeders. I had a friend help me with this as bleeding the brakes is really a two man job.
I was planning on purchasing the J&M SS hoses but Steeda had the Russell's in stock and $75.00 cheaper. I was already there to get the bleeders and clutch line so it was a no brainer.
We started with the JHR clutch line, and there is a great instruction guide on Steeda.ca. Following the guide and using the correct tools it slid right in and I didn't have to worry about clearing the cats because it's not a V8. I only had to drive up on my ramps to install it. The inlet for the transmission is easy to get to from the top or the bottom. Just make sure you have a pan and shop towels to catch the brake fluid that comes out. A little stream from the trans will come out so do not be under it! Bleeding the clutch is simple. I just pumped it up and down with my hand about 100 times then I started to feel back pressure as it rose on its own. Then I jumped in and did the rest by foot. About 5 minutes total pumping, then I topped off the brake fluid. Rowed it through the gears and took it for a spin around the block. I only wanted to know if the engagement was correct. I pulled back in and we started the hoses.
I followed the same installation guide as the J&M as they are almost identical and putting them in was easy as pie. The only thing that slowed us a bit was removing the lower copper washer off the Banjo bolt. I had to cut them off and install the new ones that come with the kit. We changed each line in order of distance from the master cylinder and bled each one after install. Before I put the wheels back on I added the speed bleeders and we pumped another few times to get new fluid into the lines. These things are sweet. Crack them open and pump away without worrying about air getting back into the lines. Just watch your fluid levels and keep the reservoir full. I used DOT 4 fluid to refill the system. After a quick test drive I had a small leak on the driver's side Banjo bolt so I popped the wheel off cleaned and tightened it. Went around the block a few more times and they felt great. Checked for leaks and so far so good.
Sitrep. The brakes feel exactly the same.
But now I know I have the reassurance of steel hoses and I do plan to track the car this summer at Mosport. The clutch on the other had feels even better now. She shifts smoother into first then second. I can rifle through the gears faster and the little notches I felt between gears is significantly lessened.
Here is a list of everything I installed today.
JHR Hgh volume clutch line
$65.99
http://www.steeda.ca/ford-mustang-pa...1-v6/JHR-8025/
http://www.steeda.ca/downloads/instr...LINE%20KIT.pdf
Russell stainless steel brake line kit
$151.99
http://www.steeda.ca/ford-mustang-pa...-09-gt/693380/
http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/30017.pdf
I will be adding a Steeda Upper Control Arm for lowered S197s and the FRPP x-pipe that arrived last week. If I can work a deal right now I'm also trying to get that aluminum driveshaft real soon.
I was planning on purchasing the J&M SS hoses but Steeda had the Russell's in stock and $75.00 cheaper. I was already there to get the bleeders and clutch line so it was a no brainer.
We started with the JHR clutch line, and there is a great instruction guide on Steeda.ca. Following the guide and using the correct tools it slid right in and I didn't have to worry about clearing the cats because it's not a V8. I only had to drive up on my ramps to install it. The inlet for the transmission is easy to get to from the top or the bottom. Just make sure you have a pan and shop towels to catch the brake fluid that comes out. A little stream from the trans will come out so do not be under it! Bleeding the clutch is simple. I just pumped it up and down with my hand about 100 times then I started to feel back pressure as it rose on its own. Then I jumped in and did the rest by foot. About 5 minutes total pumping, then I topped off the brake fluid. Rowed it through the gears and took it for a spin around the block. I only wanted to know if the engagement was correct. I pulled back in and we started the hoses.
I followed the same installation guide as the J&M as they are almost identical and putting them in was easy as pie. The only thing that slowed us a bit was removing the lower copper washer off the Banjo bolt. I had to cut them off and install the new ones that come with the kit. We changed each line in order of distance from the master cylinder and bled each one after install. Before I put the wheels back on I added the speed bleeders and we pumped another few times to get new fluid into the lines. These things are sweet. Crack them open and pump away without worrying about air getting back into the lines. Just watch your fluid levels and keep the reservoir full. I used DOT 4 fluid to refill the system. After a quick test drive I had a small leak on the driver's side Banjo bolt so I popped the wheel off cleaned and tightened it. Went around the block a few more times and they felt great. Checked for leaks and so far so good.
Sitrep. The brakes feel exactly the same.
But now I know I have the reassurance of steel hoses and I do plan to track the car this summer at Mosport. The clutch on the other had feels even better now. She shifts smoother into first then second. I can rifle through the gears faster and the little notches I felt between gears is significantly lessened. Here is a list of everything I installed today.
JHR Hgh volume clutch line
$65.99
http://www.steeda.ca/ford-mustang-pa...1-v6/JHR-8025/
http://www.steeda.ca/downloads/instr...LINE%20KIT.pdf
Russell stainless steel brake line kit
$151.99
http://www.steeda.ca/ford-mustang-pa...-09-gt/693380/
http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/30017.pdf
I will be adding a Steeda Upper Control Arm for lowered S197s and the FRPP x-pipe that arrived last week. If I can work a deal right now I'm also trying to get that aluminum driveshaft real soon.
7/2/13, 09:45 AM
#52
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This last week I purchased a new set of wheels and tires for the summer. I spent some time looking at different rims and I am a bit picky when it comes to this stuff. I love some of the wheels that are out there that you guys and gals are putting on your rides, but I wanted something a little different.
I finally settled on the 10th Anniversary Cobra SVT wheels in 18x10. I hadn't really seen any S197's with this package and thought it would look pretty cool to go a little retro.
Now the review. The rims are wrapped in Nitto 555 Extremes. Front 275/35/18 and rear 285/40/18. I love this set up. The front tire is about 1/2" shorter than the rear and creates a very cool rake up front. All four tires clear the car and steering is not compromised by the wide tire in front. There is about 10mm of clearance from the top of the inner wheel to the edge of the strut inside the wheel well. All four tires sit very nicely on the corners and I'm finding it hard not to just stare at her new stance and drool.
She handles like a real race car now too. The wide grip area feels a lot smoother on the roads and much tighter in the corners. I was going to go racing yesterday but the weather did not co-operate and the track closed early. I will try again tomorrow.
I also had the Steeda upper control arm for lower vehicles installed last week to finish off the complete suspension swap that started late last year and all I can say is Wow! No more wheel hop and more power to the ground!
There was only one thing to look out for and this is something that I really had not considered until it happened. I installed the rear wheels first as they arrived a week before the fronts. This was a bad idea. I had terrible handling issues, the car drove itself all over the lane and pot holes nearly caused me to change lanes. The tramlining was awful
(Tramlining is the tendency of a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle's wheels to follow the contours in the surface upon which it runs. The term comes from the tendency of a car's wheels to follow the normally recessed rails of street http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trams, without driver input in the same way that the train does.) Once I popped on the matching fronts all the driving issues went away and she handles like a dream!!!
Here are the wheels from AM,
http://www.americanmuscle.com/anthra...8x10-0512.html
Anthracite 10th Anniversary Cobra Style Wheel - 18x10
and of course, pics!!!
I finally settled on the 10th Anniversary Cobra SVT wheels in 18x10. I hadn't really seen any S197's with this package and thought it would look pretty cool to go a little retro.
Now the review. The rims are wrapped in Nitto 555 Extremes. Front 275/35/18 and rear 285/40/18. I love this set up. The front tire is about 1/2" shorter than the rear and creates a very cool rake up front. All four tires clear the car and steering is not compromised by the wide tire in front. There is about 10mm of clearance from the top of the inner wheel to the edge of the strut inside the wheel well. All four tires sit very nicely on the corners and I'm finding it hard not to just stare at her new stance and drool.
She handles like a real race car now too. The wide grip area feels a lot smoother on the roads and much tighter in the corners. I was going to go racing yesterday but the weather did not co-operate and the track closed early. I will try again tomorrow. I also had the Steeda upper control arm for lower vehicles installed last week to finish off the complete suspension swap that started late last year and all I can say is Wow! No more wheel hop and more power to the ground!
There was only one thing to look out for and this is something that I really had not considered until it happened. I installed the rear wheels first as they arrived a week before the fronts. This was a bad idea. I had terrible handling issues, the car drove itself all over the lane and pot holes nearly caused me to change lanes. The tramlining was awful
(Tramlining is the tendency of a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle's wheels to follow the contours in the surface upon which it runs. The term comes from the tendency of a car's wheels to follow the normally recessed rails of street http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trams, without driver input in the same way that the train does.) Once I popped on the matching fronts all the driving issues went away and she handles like a dream!!!Here are the wheels from AM,
http://www.americanmuscle.com/anthra...8x10-0512.html
Anthracite 10th Anniversary Cobra Style Wheel - 18x10
and of course, pics!!!
11/3/13, 09:55 PM
#54
Mach 1 Member
I know the last post was a while ago but man, I am a fan of what you've done!
Probably one of the most in depth jobs I've seen for a DD.
I agree with what was stated above, very factory look (but way better)!
I like how you threw the oval on the front grill too. Have you thought about putting the tri-bar pony one there instead to match the back of the car?
Probably one of the most in depth jobs I've seen for a DD.
I agree with what was stated above, very factory look (but way better)!
I like how you threw the oval on the front grill too. Have you thought about putting the tri-bar pony one there instead to match the back of the car?
1/16/14, 02:11 PM
#55
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I know the last post was a while ago but man, I am a fan of what you've done!
Probably one of the most in depth jobs I've seen for a DD.
I agree with what was stated above, very factory look (but way better)!
I like how you threw the oval on the front grill too. Have you thought about putting the tri-bar pony one there instead to match the back of the car?
Probably one of the most in depth jobs I've seen for a DD.
I agree with what was stated above, very factory look (but way better)!
I like how you threw the oval on the front grill too. Have you thought about putting the tri-bar pony one there instead to match the back of the car?
I did plan on putting the tri-bar on the front but as I was looking for the one I have from a NOS warehouse, (real 1965 piece), I came across the oval from my '85. She was an amazing car that was destroyed back in 2000. Total right off. I thought she should still live on in some small way.
I do have a new FRPP x-pipe to be installed this spring and am currently looking for a new catback system but something that doesn't sound to raspy. Any suggestions would be good. I'm leaning towards the Magnaflow Touring right now.
I am also in the middle of shooting a little video of her at the track and around town, Top Gear style, so keep your heads up for that!
1/17/14, 04:36 PM
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1/24/14, 08:48 PM
#59
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Agreed. Leave the ford emblem. It's tasteful. It's subtle. And it's unique. Congrats on the sexy car by the way.
I'll keep an eye on this thread, I'm also searching for an exhaust that's throaty, but not raspy or over the top loud like the roush. I want something that resembles the muscle car from the film "Jack Reacher". Although that had a lot to do with the particular car, and probably some cam timing?
I'll keep an eye on this thread, I'm also searching for an exhaust that's throaty, but not raspy or over the top loud like the roush. I want something that resembles the muscle car from the film "Jack Reacher". Although that had a lot to do with the particular car, and probably some cam timing?
1/28/14, 05:55 PM
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I just booked my appointment at Steeda on Friday for a tune up and new x-pipe install. I will post video of before and after. I can't wait to hear the overrun. It will be the first mod to the exhaust and I think a good place to get started.