Heck, if that's the route to go, then just shave the handles off as well......

 

Here is the link, but as others have stated it only addresses a specific failure. It's been almost a year now and I haven't had any more trouble.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ighlight=fixed

 

Did you simply thread the rod and put a nut where the pink arrow points? The thread mentions threading a nut, which is why I ask.

 

Check post #13 of that thread for a better explanation of how the rod and nut work. The rod is already threaded if that's what you are asking. When I said 'threaded' I simply meant that I placed the nut on the rod and twisted it on.

 

What sized nut did you use, or did it come with the rod? I'm a bit confused because I have never opened the door to take a look.

 

I don't know exactly what size the nut is, I used one that I had lying around the garage. In one of my posts I mentioned a size, but it is not correct. Maybe metric 6mm x 0.75 or SAE 1/4 x 28. Just guessing.

 

HOw common is this problem? And what exactly do you mean non retracting?

 

I don't know how common it is, but numerous people on this site have had the same or similar issues with the outside door handle.

The symptom is that the outside handle does not return to the correct position after the handle is used to open the door. It should spring back to where it is flush with the door itself. Instead, it remains out approximately 1/4 of an inch or more.

 

I had my driver's side door handle replaced soon after I got the car (coming up on 2 years ago) and haven't have a problem since

 

Well, after 3-1/2 years and 34K miles without a SINGLE problem, my S197 finally has its first issue, and it is this non-retracting door handle issue. So, the trouble-free streak is over, but really this is a minor issue since I can still push the handle back manually and it will stay. The car is out of warranty so that is not an option, and $65 plus labor for a new handle seems a bit steep. Still I am not going to leave it like this, so I searched the forum hoping to find a Taco Bill write-up with pics on a DIY fix, but there doesn't seem to be one.

However, I did find this on another forum (which I will attempt this weekend, and hopefully take pictures to help out other forum members who run into this problem):

"Quote:
Originally Posted by 88_stanga
i fixed my buddies at work the other day. As long as you have a couple common hand tools and you can pull the door panel off its an easy fix! i wish i had my camera with me the other day so i could do a how to on it cause i know its a common problem....ill explain quickly


when you pull the door panel off (leave the window up), you will notice a few rods for the door locks, handle, and outside handle. When you look inside and pull on the outside door handle, you will notice the rod that moves looks to have threads on the end. after a good yank or two it moves in the plastic clip that holds the rod. undo the plastic clip, slide the rod down and re attach the clip. problem solved. maybe ill pull my door panel off my car this weekend and do a write up for everyone. no need to go to the dealer! fixed it in about 15-20 min

way to go bud. when the door panel is off, plastic clip located, if you feel behind that clip a little lip. take a screwdriver behind that lip and pull towards the frt of the car. clip opens real easy. i had to move the threaded rod up in the clip( by having my g/f pull the outside handle open) and sure enough its like brand new, very nice. i called the dealer, those handles are 65.00 pre-painted in all the colors. if this holds up though, perfect fix. 5 minutes to pull the panel, 5 minutes to relocate the rod in the clip. thanks a million 88_stanga, thats the fix i been waitin for"

I will let you all know if this works, and how easy (or hard) it really is. Luckily I have had the door panels off before to replace the speakers, so I know how to do that part...

 

Not a TacoBill write up, but here's one that has a photo and illustration.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=432196

 

Thanks NJ3, I could not find that thread for some reason.

So I just did the job, and the handle is fixed. The job took about an hour, but if you are familar with removing the door panel, you could do it in 20 minutes or so. There is PDF in the Work Instructions sticky thread in this forum to remove the inner door panel. To do that job, you need a 9/32 socket, a T30 torx, needle-nose pliers, and a panel pry bar (or flat screwdriver). I have attached a picture of the panel pry bar, which is made of plastic and basically is like a small crowbar. Tips:

• of course, make sure window is up before removing panel!
• when removing the window control switch housing, first pry off the upper panel. Once the upper panel of the housing is off and disconnected from the electrical connector, you can reach inside the housing and pull the rest of it from the door
• once all the screws are out, the panel will lift easily. If it does not lift easily, check to make sure that you removed all the screws according to the picture.
• with the panel off, disconnect the electrical connections
• to remove the door handle actuating cable (see Figure 10 in the picture I have attached), squeeze the two tabs with needle-nose pliers to pull the plastic housing through the opening. Then the bare cable will fit through the slot and you can remove the door release cable from panel. Now the door panel is completely removed.

With the panel off, the plastic sheet covering the door needs to be peeled back. As long as your hands are clean, you should have no trouble getting the sticky sealant to re-adhere to the door when you press the plastic sheet back.

The rest of the procedure is discussed in the thread that NJ3 provided. I did not put a nut on the rod to keep the retaining clip from sliding up the rod again at some point. I tried, but I did not have the right size nut. It's not a 1/4-20 or a 10-32, that's for sure. It may be metric as someone else mentioned, or it may be 10-24, but I can't be sure what size it is. So I just opened the retainer clip with my fingers, slid it toward the bottom of the threaded rod, and re-clamped it.

One last note which I discovered last year, and others have posted, including member davisinla: when replacing the trim panel behind the inner door handle (see Figure 3 in the attached pics), put a piece of double-sided masking tape on the inside of the trim piece first. This holds it firmly in place and prevents it from rattling. Mine rattled for months, mainly only in cold weather during acceleration, until I figured out it was this trim piece.

 

I had the drivers door handle fixed at the dealer in Dec. but it is already sticking again, although not as bad as it was.

 

wjones14 , I did mine and used a nut that fit the studs on the throttle body , nut sure what size that is , but it just happened to fit. If you didn't put a nut on it , I would assume it will eventually slide down again. It's been a couple of years ago now and with the nut it hasn't happened again ...

 

Yeah, I don't doubt it will slide down again. If it takes another 3-1/2 years, then it might not be my problem.

I searched high and low in my garage for a nut that would fit, but couldn't find one. I wish someone knew what size nut it was before I had taken the door panel off, but no one seems to know.