Don't forget an adj. Panhard bar with the springs as well. Sounds like the Steeda bar is a solid choice.

 

As for the Panhard Bar... I've never seen so many conflicting reports on whether or not this is needed when lowering the car (even 1"). Also, when I see "adjustable"... is that something I adjust or does it just mean it's adjustable by the installer in order to achieve some result? Sorry, I'm a little confused by this one.

 

From what I've read/heard, the APB is more of a "just in case" thing. You CAN get away with not doing it, but you run the risk of the axle sitting off center after dropping it. If you have it and find the axle out of center, the ability to adjust the length allows you to re-center it.

TacoBill has a how-to somewhere on here that goes in detail on how to check.

 

A few points... The Steeda Sports I use and recommend are NOT the 555-8216's that you find on most sites. That's a progressive spring made by Eibach, I use a linear rate version made by Hypercoil.

As for the dampers. Shotzy had a complete FR3 setup put on the car, in fact I think Rehagen did it as I recall. He contacted me because of some things he read where I felt the dampers could be improved--and he went for it. Clearly he likes it better. I want to point out to my knowledge, there were no other changes made at the same time. The comparison is a direct one between Koni STR.T and FRPP FR3 units. If I'm wrong, I'm sure he'll correct me.

To jump back to your first points:

1. Can be harmed by running springs or dampers that are too stiff and basically make the car hop and skip around. You'll also see that this hurt the ride a lot too.

2. Harshness is more a function of the dampers than the springs. Springs make things stiffer, or more firm--and if you go too far they can be very brutal to drive on. But the cars stock don't deal with impact harshness the best, and that's on pretty tall and soft springs.... that's because the dampers aren't tuned particularly well. And IMHO the FRPP's suffer from a similar issue, pretty abrupt ride quality and at times a bit "crashing".

3. Cost is always an issue. But much like tools from Harbor Freight vs. Snap-On there is a strong correlation between price and performance (meaning anything from durability to warranty, to actually how a part performs). I think that STR.T's are a great value. For that matter, I'd sooner put a set of D-specs on over FRPP dampers (and I in fact did just that way back Feb. 2007 on the Shelby) because they work better, in my opinion, and they offer you some flexibility.

I do have a customer in Detroit named Bob Kwiatkowski. He's had FRPP dampers, D-specs, and Koni's. He's had all those dampers on with various springs as well.... and he prefers the Koni Sports to those others and he ended up running stock springs because he felt that was the best combination for him.

 

Can anyone recommend an installer in the SF Bay Area?

 

I don't really want to get dragged into a vendor war. As I think both are very knowledgeable and helpful. And if it wasn't for BOTH of them I am not sure my car would ride as great as it does now.

Rehagen Racing did do the install of the FRPP handling pack. And they did a great job. I really liked how the car cornered and held the road. But it was a little harsh on the bumpy roads I drive everyday. These roads are brutal

But the only thing that I did change from the FRPP handling pack was the dampers to the Koni STR.T. And for me with the roads I drive it is better.

Again we should really thank all these great vendors for sucking all our money dry........er.......I mean givng us invaluable information to make our cars much better.

I still say the best money I spent on my car is the suspension. It totally transformed the ride and I like it better than my 06 M3 in all phases.

When I get my next car I know 2 first vendors I will be calling

 

I AGREE, I think that both of them have great knowledge.