Those with Brembo package...
I get what you're saying, thanks for the clarification. My primary goal is the aesthetics (I have a 4x4 Explorer; I don't need a 4x4 Mustang, too) but I don't want to half *** anything on this car.
Thanks for that. Could you recommend a good strut/shock combo for a 95% street driven car with a 1.5" drop?
Thanks for that. Could you recommend a good strut/shock combo for a 95% street driven car with a 1.5" drop?
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...p/II=666/CA=96
Steeda has a good kit as well. You can get custom length Eibach Springs as well as spring rate...
Dave
Joined: November 25, 2009
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
here is what I did see my many other threads for pictures of teh finished car in street and track configurations
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
Stinger,
Is 1.5" drop OK for street? I'm not sure if it is because of the Roush front end but you car seems lower than other Mustangs I seen with the same drop. The Mustang is so high from the ground that a 1.5" drop is consider moderate by Eibach, H&R Springs and others. I seem to agree but want the opinion of people that have done it.
Is 1.5" drop OK for street? I'm not sure if it is because of the Roush front end but you car seems lower than other Mustangs I seen with the same drop. The Mustang is so high from the ground that a 1.5" drop is consider moderate by Eibach, H&R Springs and others. I seem to agree but want the opinion of people that have done it.
here is what I did see my many other threads for pictures of teh finished car in street and track configurations
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
This setup sounds pretty hardcore...so pretty much perfect.

I haven't been around here that long... but long enough to know that Stinger is worth listening to.
I do appreciate all the input and again, Shaun, I meant no offense in what I said.
Joined: November 25, 2009
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
No problem Freshmeat.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
Last edited by Stinger1982; Jul 11, 2010 at 02:31 PM.
No problem Freshmeat.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
I already have the 1.5" springs sitting at my Mustang shop. I'll see how I like it, since they're already paid for. If I don't like the height I'll either go back to stock or I'm going to swap to the 1" coils and order new dampers to match.
There are actually a few guys around here who have 2" drops on their Mustangs. I don't know how they don't drag it on EVERYTHING in existence.
Again, thanks for your input. It always helps to have a more rounded understanding of what I'm getting into, even if it's after I bought parts.
No problem Freshmeat.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
I do want to address some points from your post.
I know that I am given special treatment by some companies, some parts are discounted, some are given to me etc.
However when I accept something from a vender I make it CLEAR AS DAY to them that I will post my true opinion of their product or service and am not shy about speaking my mind. Part of how I get the hookups I do is by remaining impartial and a true 3rd party. That way I can say to part maker "X" hey let me try your part on and I will post independent dyno results to back up or disprove your claims (I have actually had a venderback out when I said I would be doing before and after dyno pulls to prove their merit LOL)
now onto the topic of the thread.
I DO NOT RECOMEND THE 1.5" DROP SPRING FOR ANY STREET CAR PERIOD. THEY ARE BEING SWAPPED OUT OF MY CAR NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The FRPP 1" drop spring is in my experience the best spring for the S-197 for both a street car or an open track car.
You can change just the springs, its safe to change springs without shocks. HOWEVER I feel its a bad idea. The factory dampers were designed for use in conjunction with a spring of a certain spring rate. when you DRASTICALY change that spring rate that’s OEM shocks ability to control that spring is greatly reduced. With MI roads as crappy as they are and the unknown (something in the road you need to swerve and say there is a bump in the road) I have never and will never put an aggressive spring on an OEM shock.
IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side.
In all honesty, if I don't like the ride of the 1.5" springs I'll very likely go back to stock and see what Air Ride Technologies puts out. I've seen their kits on lots of classic cars and it's always been just right.
Joined: November 25, 2009
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
On the street the far is too low
On the track I was bounding over a curb and it scraped the bottom of the splitter and hit the bump stop too easy (need more travel)
The 1.5 look killer just not pratical
I don't have a gt but I am lowered 2" in back and 1" in front on tein s-tech springs/stock shocks/struts using a massive adj spherical endlink phb with relocation centering bracket cut rear bump stops current setup on my 2011 3.7.
I can tell you after getting back from a trip to hilton head with my wife the car rides great to both of us, especially when compared to my 2006 which was lowered on H&R coilovers 245/35/20 tires on 8.5" wheels
or my 2010 which was lowered with the same setup as my 2011 except the 2010 was on 265/35/20 mounted on a 8.5" wheel and my 11 is on 245/45/20 on a 8.5" wheel so either they did a much better job stiffening up the 2011's from the factory or the 45 series tire sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother? Speed bumps and getting in and out of parking decks/lots is not an issue either and **** does it look good imo anyways slammed

fyi the 245/45/20 size is stock 20" size for chargers/challengers and 300's about 1" bigger overall dia than stock coming in at 28.1" when mounted on my wheels with my stock 225/60/17 bfgs measuring right at 27" overall dia
I can tell you after getting back from a trip to hilton head with my wife the car rides great to both of us, especially when compared to my 2006 which was lowered on H&R coilovers 245/35/20 tires on 8.5" wheels
or my 2010 which was lowered with the same setup as my 2011 except the 2010 was on 265/35/20 mounted on a 8.5" wheel and my 11 is on 245/45/20 on a 8.5" wheel so either they did a much better job stiffening up the 2011's from the factory or the 45 series tire sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother? Speed bumps and getting in and out of parking decks/lots is not an issue either and **** does it look good imo anyways slammed


fyi the 245/45/20 size is stock 20" size for chargers/challengers and 300's about 1" bigger overall dia than stock coming in at 28.1" when mounted on my wheels with my stock 225/60/17 bfgs measuring right at 27" overall dia
Last edited by 3.73-11; Jul 12, 2010 at 08:18 AM.
I don't have a gt but I am lowered 2" in back and 1" in front on tein s-tech springs/stock shocks/struts using a massive adj spherical endlink phb with relocation centering bracket cut rear bump stops current setup on my 2011 3.7.
I can tell you after getting back from a trip to hilton head with my wife the car rides great to both of us, especially when compared to my 2006 which was lowered on H&R coilovers 245/35/20 tires on 8.5" wheels
or my 2010 which was lowered with the same setup as my 2011 except the 2010 was on 265/35/20 mounted on a 8.5" wheel and my 11 is on 245/45/20 on a 8.5" wheel so either they did a much better job stiffening up the 2011's from the factory or the 45 series tire sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother? Speed bumps and getting in and out of parking decks/lots is not an issue either and **** does it look good imo anyways slammed
fyi the 245/45/20 size is stock 20" size for chargers/challengers and 300's about 1" bigger overall dia than stock coming in at 28.1" when mounted on my wheels with my stock 225/60/17 bfgs measuring right at 27" overall dia
I can tell you after getting back from a trip to hilton head with my wife the car rides great to both of us, especially when compared to my 2006 which was lowered on H&R coilovers 245/35/20 tires on 8.5" wheels
or my 2010 which was lowered with the same setup as my 2011 except the 2010 was on 265/35/20 mounted on a 8.5" wheel and my 11 is on 245/45/20 on a 8.5" wheel so either they did a much better job stiffening up the 2011's from the factory or the 45 series tire sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother? Speed bumps and getting in and out of parking decks/lots is not an issue either and **** does it look good imo anyways slammed

fyi the 245/45/20 size is stock 20" size for chargers/challengers and 300's about 1" bigger overall dia than stock coming in at 28.1" when mounted on my wheels with my stock 225/60/17 bfgs measuring right at 27" overall dia
Gotcha. I figured it was just too low. From the pics of your track day, you couldn't see ANY daylight under your car! What is the diameter of your slicks? They look shorter than the 19" street tires, no?
Since the car is only 1" lower in front and the tires are 1" larger in dia its about the same as stock ride height I think about 5" on a level surface give or take, I'm thinking of doing a chin spoiler if/when some brilliant company finally decides to release one for the v6 models I hear RTR is supposed to have one out by the fall have to see what that looks like
here is what I did see my many other threads for pictures of teh finished car in street and track configurations
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
Mods:
FRPP 1.5" drop springs
FRPP Adjustable dampers
Steeda adjustable front sway bar
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plate
Steeda Bump steer kit
Rehagen Racing Brake ducts
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Rehagen Racing Chrome Moly rear lower control arms
Motol RBF 600 Brake fluid
Mustang RTR 19x9.5 wheels -Street
Goodyear Eagle F1-D3 275/40-19- Street
Roush Trak Pak forged wheel 18x10 - Track
Hoosier A6 275/35-18 -Track
This car was built for NASA TT-A
(NASA= National Auto Sport Association)
I'm planing very soon to get me a '11 GT Brembo. In one of your posts, I readed that you got a '11 Premium (leather GT). Do you see any advantage of going for leather seats VS cloth seats, regarding that the seats keep you planted firmly in the cockpit during high-G cornering?, also since I'm planing to lower my car with 1" springs with better shocks, which adjustable panhard bar do you recommend?, I also saw that you got a 3.73 gear, Do you see any advantage of this one VS a 3.55 or a 3.31 for tracking purpose?



