Those with Brembo package...
#41
Hi Guys
I'am using the steeda sport springs and Koni STR.T struts & shock . The steeda srings lowers the car 1" in the front 1.2" in the back . One of the reason the brembos brake cars to sit higher in the back than the stock GT is they have no spare tire in the trunk so with the less weight back there the car sit up a bit highter. For my taste the stock air gap is to dam big and make the car look ugly . The steeda sport springs & Koni STR.T struts & shock is a set up that Sam Strano saids make for the best riding lower mustang and having it on car now it was night to day diff. to just running the springs only .I drive my car every day i had no trouble with bumps or dips and draging going over speed bumps
as you car see my drive way is not flat i have zero trouble going in and out of my drive way .
Here a link to Sam Strano shop give him a call he can help you out. http://www.stranoparts.com/
I'am using the steeda sport springs and Koni STR.T struts & shock . The steeda srings lowers the car 1" in the front 1.2" in the back . One of the reason the brembos brake cars to sit higher in the back than the stock GT is they have no spare tire in the trunk so with the less weight back there the car sit up a bit highter. For my taste the stock air gap is to dam big and make the car look ugly . The steeda sport springs & Koni STR.T struts & shock is a set up that Sam Strano saids make for the best riding lower mustang and having it on car now it was night to day diff. to just running the springs only .I drive my car every day i had no trouble with bumps or dips and draging going over speed bumps
as you car see my drive way is not flat i have zero trouble going in and out of my drive way .
Here a link to Sam Strano shop give him a call he can help you out. http://www.stranoparts.com/
#42
Hi 300AGT,
I think that you have a good seeting.
I readed from Stinger1982 the following:
"IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did you felt any handling issue after the lowering? Are you planing to install the Adjustable Panhard Bar?
I think that you have a good seeting.
I readed from Stinger1982 the following:
"IF YOU LOWER THE CAR EVEN 1" YOU MUST PUT AN ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR ON THE CAR PERIOD!!!!!!!
The panhard bar's job is to locate the axle left to right in relation to the body/chassis.
When you lower the car you change the angle of the Panhard bar and that causes the axle to shift to one side."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did you felt any handling issue after the lowering? Are you planing to install the Adjustable Panhard Bar?
#43
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Join Date: July 23, 2010
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I'll go the Steeda route next week and will have either the Steeda Ultralite or Sport springs installed, in combination with the Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar.
I'll post some pics and review when it's all installed.
I'll post some pics and review when it's all installed.
#44
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#45
Sorry guys there one more thing you all need to know if you are getting new struts all the sturt on the maket right now are for 2010 mustang and older (they change the strut bearing on the 2011 GT ) so you need to get a 2010 strut bearing to put the struts on your cars . I when with a SVT 2007-10 GT 500 strut bearing here one place you may get it from http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...P-Strut-Mounts .
#46
I am Shauny Clause
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Hi Shaun,
I'm planing very soon to get me a '11 GT Brembo. In one of your posts, I readed that you got a '11 Premium (leather GT). Do you see any advantage of going for leather seats VS cloth seats, regarding that the seats keep you planted firmly in the cockpit during high-G cornering?, also since I'm planing to lower my car with 1" springs with better shocks, which adjustable panhard bar do you recommend?, I also saw that you got a 3.73 gear, Do you see any advantage of this one VS a 3.55 or a 3.31 for tracking purpose?
I'm planing very soon to get me a '11 GT Brembo. In one of your posts, I readed that you got a '11 Premium (leather GT). Do you see any advantage of going for leather seats VS cloth seats, regarding that the seats keep you planted firmly in the cockpit during high-G cornering?, also since I'm planing to lower my car with 1" springs with better shocks, which adjustable panhard bar do you recommend?, I also saw that you got a 3.73 gear, Do you see any advantage of this one VS a 3.55 or a 3.31 for tracking purpose?
On the seat material question, to be dead honest on the track it doesn’t matter, these seats have so little side bolstering that no matter what you are going to be having to hold yourself behind the wheel. The leather in the 401a rapid spec is beautiful and worth 2x what they are asking for it, I HIGHLY recommend it.
I recommend the Steeda adj panhard bar, the cost to quality on the Steeda bar is untouchable, we run the Steeda street adj bar on our Grand Am cars and it has proven to be a quality piece.
For road racing the 3.73 are the way to go, most road courses are going to require a 4-5 shift anyway and the difference between the 3.55's and the 3.73 wont eliminate that shift (you don’t want the 3.31's)
Also when you go to modify your suspension drop me a line and I will hook you up with a discount on the parts
Last edited by Stinger1982; 10/4/10 at 07:42 AM.
#47
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I feel like the leather seats allow you to slide a little bit. My 05 had cloth seats and i stayed in place no matter what. But i still ended up getting the 401A
Shaun can you hook me up with some discounts too? lol i plan on taking mine to willow springs.....whenever it gets here! supposed to be built on the 7th
Shaun can you hook me up with some discounts too? lol i plan on taking mine to willow springs.....whenever it gets here! supposed to be built on the 7th
#48
I am Shauny Clause
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I feel like the leather seats allow you to slide a little bit. My 05 had cloth seats and i stayed in place no matter what. But i still ended up getting the 401A
Shaun can you hook me up with some discounts too? lol i plan on taking mine to willow springs.....whenever it gets here! supposed to be built on the 7th
Shaun can you hook me up with some discounts too? lol i plan on taking mine to willow springs.....whenever it gets here! supposed to be built on the 7th
I can absolutley help you out with your car
#49
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agreed on the bolstering. currently i have a roush F-150 and going from that to the mustang feels like the mustang has race seats lol i really like the seats in the SRT-4s too. my friend has one and they are comfy but hold you in place real tight
#51
Glad to hear you plan to track the car!
On the seat material question, to be dead honest on the track it doesn’t matter, these seats have so little side bolstering that no matter what you are going to be having to hold yourself behind the wheel. The leather in the 401a rapid spec is beautiful and worth 2x what they are asking for it, I HIGHLY recommend it.
I recommend the Steeda adj panhard bar, the cost to quality on the Steeda bar is untouchable, we run the Steeda street adj bar on our Grand Am cars and it has proven to be a quality piece.
For road racing the 3.73 are the way to go, most road courses are going to require a 4-5 shift anyway and the difference between the 3.55's and the 3.73 wont eliminate that shift (you don’t want the 3.31's)
Also when you go to modify your suspension drop me a line and I will hook you up with a discount on the parts
On the seat material question, to be dead honest on the track it doesn’t matter, these seats have so little side bolstering that no matter what you are going to be having to hold yourself behind the wheel. The leather in the 401a rapid spec is beautiful and worth 2x what they are asking for it, I HIGHLY recommend it.
I recommend the Steeda adj panhard bar, the cost to quality on the Steeda bar is untouchable, we run the Steeda street adj bar on our Grand Am cars and it has proven to be a quality piece.
For road racing the 3.73 are the way to go, most road courses are going to require a 4-5 shift anyway and the difference between the 3.55's and the 3.73 wont eliminate that shift (you don’t want the 3.31's)
Also when you go to modify your suspension drop me a line and I will hook you up with a discount on the parts
#52
I thought the seats in my C6 Z06 were bad. The seats in this car are absolutely no use in spirited driving. ZERO side bolstering.
In my opinion, Ford should have bumped the price of the Brembo package and included better seats just as BMW does with their sport package.
In my opinion, Ford should have bumped the price of the Brembo package and included better seats just as BMW does with their sport package.
#53
I'm looking at FRPP 1" springs, SVT adjustable dampers, Steeda adj. Panhard bar, Steeda bump steer kit, and a new set of control arms for mine come next spring. Something similar to the FR3 package with the adjustable dampers, but not quite as severe as what Shaun has on his. Setting it up for mostly street with occasional track use.
The 1" springs are plenty, and I don't want to have to dance the car everywhere worrying about clearance. I had H&Rs on my Speed6 which SLAMMED it. MI roads aren't good for that kind of stance.
Now, if the 5-way adjustable shocks that the Boss 302 has become an FRPP part, I will look at those. I would rather have settings instead of infinitely adjustable ones any day.
Shaun, I'll be talking with you in more detail about some sort of setup for my car.
The 1" springs are plenty, and I don't want to have to dance the car everywhere worrying about clearance. I had H&Rs on my Speed6 which SLAMMED it. MI roads aren't good for that kind of stance.
Now, if the 5-way adjustable shocks that the Boss 302 has become an FRPP part, I will look at those. I would rather have settings instead of infinitely adjustable ones any day.
Shaun, I'll be talking with you in more detail about some sort of setup for my car.
#55
#56
I thought the seats in my C6 Z06 were bad. The seats in this car are absolutely no use in spirited driving. ZERO side bolstering.
In my opinion, Ford should have bumped the price of the Brembo package and included better seats just as BMW does with their sport package.
In my opinion, Ford should have bumped the price of the Brembo package and included better seats just as BMW does with their sport package.
#58
Hi Shaun,
I readed from one of your postings the following: "for a full weight street car on slicks, amazing. we are still dialing in the shock package and playing around with different sway bar settings to find that sweet spot. early indications (lap times during some open track days) are VERY encouraging. The problem is the brakes. The car weighs 3920 with me and 3/4 of tank and runs over 150 on the straightaway at Mid-ohio. Thats a ****load of energy and its been causing some heat related brake failures, including a scary moment at mid-ohio that ended in a ride through a very large gravel trap."
Also readed in an article (on the truth about cars) that talked about the brembo brakes, the following:
"the Brembos are nice but they are still two sizes too small for a car of this performance potential"also mentioned: "[I]on the optional Brembo front brakes. Here's the best way to think about them: Go look at a Porsche 911 GT3. Evaluate the size of the brakes on the car. Now come back and look at these optional Brembos. Then consider that the Mustang outweighs the GT3 by a few hundred pounds. These aren't the be-all and end-all of optional brake setups. True racing Mustangs use massive calipers fron and rear. These brakes, which are identical to the GT500 stoppers and probably very simillar to the itemes found on the Camaro SS and Challenger SRT-8, aren't even close to what's required for heavy-duty track use.. The Brembos will take a genuily hard lap or two before requiring some rest.
Which brake improvement do you recommend for racing in the 2011 GT Brembo?
I readed from one of your postings the following: "for a full weight street car on slicks, amazing. we are still dialing in the shock package and playing around with different sway bar settings to find that sweet spot. early indications (lap times during some open track days) are VERY encouraging. The problem is the brakes. The car weighs 3920 with me and 3/4 of tank and runs over 150 on the straightaway at Mid-ohio. Thats a ****load of energy and its been causing some heat related brake failures, including a scary moment at mid-ohio that ended in a ride through a very large gravel trap."
Also readed in an article (on the truth about cars) that talked about the brembo brakes, the following:
"the Brembos are nice but they are still two sizes too small for a car of this performance potential"also mentioned: "[I]on the optional Brembo front brakes. Here's the best way to think about them: Go look at a Porsche 911 GT3. Evaluate the size of the brakes on the car. Now come back and look at these optional Brembos. Then consider that the Mustang outweighs the GT3 by a few hundred pounds. These aren't the be-all and end-all of optional brake setups. True racing Mustangs use massive calipers fron and rear. These brakes, which are identical to the GT500 stoppers and probably very simillar to the itemes found on the Camaro SS and Challenger SRT-8, aren't even close to what's required for heavy-duty track use.. The Brembos will take a genuily hard lap or two before requiring some rest.
Which brake improvement do you recommend for racing in the 2011 GT Brembo?
#59
I agree on the Brembos being too small for track uses.
The best thing to do if you don't want to upgrade them is to use a real race brake pad on all fours, vent the fronts somehow and use DOT4 fluids. That should pull out a few more hot laps until you need to cool 'em down with a slow lap or two... unless you have some real long stretches on the track are at.
The best thing to do if you don't want to upgrade them is to use a real race brake pad on all fours, vent the fronts somehow and use DOT4 fluids. That should pull out a few more hot laps until you need to cool 'em down with a slow lap or two... unless you have some real long stretches on the track are at.
#60
I'm running the full FRPP handling pack1 inch drop with adjustable dampers. I hadn had any issues scrapping the front end until I installed the CS lower valence. Now I'm scrapping that fairly regularly around Camp Pendleton..... The dealer decided the car didn't need an adjustable panhard on the car, we will see how that turns out over time.
And for what its worth the side bolstering is pretty weak, but being over 6 foot I just kinda wedge myself between the door and steering wheel.
And for what its worth the side bolstering is pretty weak, but being over 6 foot I just kinda wedge myself between the door and steering wheel.