Rust proofing
#1
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Rust proofing
What are your opinions about undercoating and/or rust proofing for a 2011 Mustang? In live in S/W PA but don't plan to drive the car in the winter and salt. But I do plan to drive it so I'll encounter wet weather from time to time.
Thanks,
KT
Thanks,
KT
#4
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I don't drive mine in the winter either, but I did have it rust proofed last year. If it's stored in a garage in which other winter-driven vehicles are parked, salt is in the air. If it's stored on a cement floor, the car's under body is still susceptible to moisture coming through the cement and lye leaching from the cement. A friend who has a '55 Ford Thunderbird learned that the hard way and now stores his car on a full length rubber mat.
#6
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That depends entirely on the rust proofing product. I agree that can happen with the hard products used in the past, but not some of the new soft, wax-like products that are similar in composition to the Amsoil MPHD Metal Protector you probably sell to your own customers.
#7
I thought I read somewhere that the stangs are particularly vulnerable to undercarriage rust. My friends 1993 explorer doesnt have any rust at all, no rust proofing and driven in the brutal canadian winter, salt everywhere.
I wonder if ford uses similar steel on the stangs as they do on the explorers. If so, it is encouraging. But since the stang is designed primarily for southern climates, I wonder if the bean counters at ford skimped on the steel to save a few bucks. I take delivery of a 2012 shortly and I'm agonizing over whether I need to start spraying the oil at krown, or save the 80 bucks a year. I intend to have the vehicle for over 10 years though.
I wonder if ford uses similar steel on the stangs as they do on the explorers. If so, it is encouraging. But since the stang is designed primarily for southern climates, I wonder if the bean counters at ford skimped on the steel to save a few bucks. I take delivery of a 2012 shortly and I'm agonizing over whether I need to start spraying the oil at krown, or save the 80 bucks a year. I intend to have the vehicle for over 10 years though.
#8
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I used Krown for numerous vehicles and many years. It worked, but I found it very messy. Then the door and engine compartment seals swelled when I had it applied to an 09 Corolla and 08 Tundra. Two dealerships said it was the result of the Krown product. Now I've switched to Ziebart and am quite pleased. It's much cleaner.
#10
Legacy TMS Member
I thought I read somewhere that the stangs are particularly vulnerable to undercarriage rust. My friends 1993 explorer doesnt have any rust at all, no rust proofing and driven in the brutal canadian winter, salt everywhere.
I wonder if ford uses similar steel on the stangs as they do on the explorers. If so, it is encouraging. But since the stang is designed primarily for southern climates, I wonder if the bean counters at ford skimped on the steel to save a few bucks. I take delivery of a 2012 shortly and I'm agonizing over whether I need to start spraying the oil at krown, or save the 80 bucks a year. I intend to have the vehicle for over 10 years though.
I wonder if ford uses similar steel on the stangs as they do on the explorers. If so, it is encouraging. But since the stang is designed primarily for southern climates, I wonder if the bean counters at ford skimped on the steel to save a few bucks. I take delivery of a 2012 shortly and I'm agonizing over whether I need to start spraying the oil at krown, or save the 80 bucks a year. I intend to have the vehicle for over 10 years though.
#12
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I used Krown for numerous vehicles and many years. It worked, but I found it very messy. Then the door and engine compartment seals swelled when I had it applied to an 09 Corolla and 08 Tundra. Two dealerships said it was the result of the Krown product. Now I've switched to Ziebart and am quite pleased. It's much cleaner.
That depends entirely on the rust proofing product. I agree that can happen with the hard products used in the past, but not some of the new soft, wax-like products that are similar in composition to the Amsoil MPHD Metal Protector you probably sell to your own customers.
I don't drive mine in the winter either, but I did have it rust proofed last year. If it's stored in a garage in which other winter-driven vehicles are parked, salt is in the air. If it's stored on a cement floor, the car's under body is still susceptible to moisture coming through the cement and lye leaching from the cement. A friend who has a '55 Ford Thunderbird learned that the hard way and now stores his car on a full length rubber mat.
If you drive in the winter, rinse the undercarriage regularly and don't park in the garage. Salt does it's worst right around the freezing point. The melted snow/ice/salt mixture acts as an electrolyte an uses the metal as the sacrificial element (which becomes rust). Below freezing, not much happens. Plus being in the garage after driving in the slop will turn all your nice aluminum into a white powder.
Keep it outside after it gets wet allows things to dry off.
#13
The por15 seems like a reasonable idea. I would paint most of the underside with it and it looks better than the rubber IMHO. Some say the rubber can potentially trap moisture but my experience with it was positive as it preserved a 17 year old celica, while the untreated parts had long ago rusted through.
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