Oil separators and fate...(JLT vs Bob's vs Moroso)
6/21/14, 03:27 PM
#81
Cobra Member
I hope that you all can ignore my ignorance here. I understand the purpose of what the oil catcher does. what I don't get is that if this is an important component on this vehicle, why hasn't it been setup as a factory standard rather than it being installed after the fact? is not having one going to seriously affect how the car works and performs without it? I guess i'll need to research this more and I welcome any feedback and input anyone cares to contribute further. I would definitely order one if it means my car will run healthier.
On the e92 m3 for example though, they do come with one. And that's not even a FI car. It's also almost double the cost of a loaded GT.
6/21/14, 03:40 PM
#82
Cobra Member
Burton, I was typing on my phone, and I see that I left out part of my question.... What I meant to ask is: should I clean the throttle body, after having run my car without an oil catch can for 11K miles? Has anyone looked at how much gunk has been built up in there? I recall in one of my previous cars, when I took it to a tuner, the first thing they did was to clean the throttle body before they started. But as I havent done this myself before, I'm not sure if I need to get myself into that?
6/21/14, 03:42 PM
#83
Legacy TMS Member
Good question. I think it boils down to cost vs risk. Long term, not having one MAY cause issues. I am experiencing them now on my RSX. But the manufacture doesn't really car about stuff that MAY happen outside of warranty. So they save cost and don't add one. On the e92 m3 for example though, they do come with one. And that's not even a FI car. It's also almost double the cost of a loaded GT.
6/21/14, 03:55 PM
#84
Cobra Member
Did not know this. This just reassures that not only is cleaning unnecessary, but probably bad. Lol
6/21/14, 04:02 PM
#85
Cobra Member
6/22/14, 12:13 AM
#89
Bullitt Member
Holy crap! You will not believe this… I literally and seriously only drove my car about 15 miles, and I removed the JLT and There was already about a half teaspoon of oil in there. Are you kidding me? I was letting that much oil in my intake for the last 1000 miles? WTF.
If the jlt caught this much oil already, I can't even imagine how good the bobs will be.
If the jlt caught this much oil already, I can't even imagine how good the bobs will be.
6/22/14, 06:22 PM
#90
Bullitt Member
For those who missed it, here’s an older video showing a separator in action:
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/video-morosos-air-oil-separator-in-action/
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/video-morosos-air-oil-separator-in-action/
6/23/14, 10:31 AM
#91
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Emptied mine out at 560kms, so 535kms since install. The line near the top of the cup is the one ounce line, so not a ton. But, it looks like the spout at the bottom is seeping ever so slightly. No drips below, just a bit wet. So I'll need to pull it off and redo the T-tape.
This is a bone stock 14 GT.
This is a bone stock 14 GT.
6/23/14, 11:57 AM
#92
Mach 1 Member
Burton,
Think a healthy engine doesn’t produce a lot of vapor at power? Check out this YouTube video link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsEf96u2ZFw That’s a 750+hp Gaerte 360 inch methanol injected motor (Best in the business). Check out the vapors coming out of the open breathers. The blow by is likely a little heavier than normal because the engine burns methanol. Those engines experience a lot of cylinder wash down when the engine is cold and at idle. The raw methanol that gets past the rings ends up in the oil. As the oil heats up, it vaporizes away. In any case it’s a very graphic represntation of blow by at power. The upshot is if you’re not going to let the vapors go into the atmosphere, you better have a contingency plan to get rid of it!!! The modern PCV system does just that most manufacturers could care less if it decreases performance a bit. They just program in a little more safety margin in the timing curves. I would argue that anybody who has tuned their engine to remove some of the safety margin should run an oil separator to maximize the gains they should be getting.
The reason a separator is not required on the driver’s side is that is the clean air intake part of the PCV system. Fresh filtered air enters the crankcase from that point (In a healthy normally aspirated engine this will always be higher pressure than the valved side behind the throttle plate). With a healthy engine the only vapors that would travel up into that tube would be a very small amount of vapor left in the rocker box and would only occur after the engine has shut down. If the piston rings are in very poor condition with excessive blow by, it can get so bad that the entire PCV system becomes overwhelmed which actually pressurizes the crankcase and forces vapors out the clean air intake. This can also occur if the PCV valve sticks shut. If you ever see oil laying in the intake in front of the throttle plates this is where it’s coming from. In that instance the PCV system should be looked at to make sure all components are in good functioning condition. If they are, a cylinder leak check should be done on the engine to see how bad the blow by is and which cylinders are sick.
How it’s designed to work is, the clean air entering the engine passes through the crankcase and picks up condensate, oil vapor, mixes with and dilutes the blow by and is then drawn back out of the crankcase past the PCV valve on the low pressure side of the system. This keeps the pollutants out of the air we breathe and keeps sludge from building up inside the engine. Most hi-performance engines just use open breathers because introducing oil and oil vapor into the A/F mixture reduces its overall octane slightly and controlling sludge build up is of no consequence since most race engines are rebuilt frequently enough it’s not an issue. I’ve seen hi-performance guys fool around with PCV systems plumbed into their headers which works like a venturi to suck the vapors directly into the exhaust stream. The theory behind it was a vacuum inside the crankcase reduced parasitic loss. I don’t know that there is any data available to prove it one way or another.
John
Think a healthy engine doesn’t produce a lot of vapor at power? Check out this YouTube video link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsEf96u2ZFw That’s a 750+hp Gaerte 360 inch methanol injected motor (Best in the business). Check out the vapors coming out of the open breathers. The blow by is likely a little heavier than normal because the engine burns methanol. Those engines experience a lot of cylinder wash down when the engine is cold and at idle. The raw methanol that gets past the rings ends up in the oil. As the oil heats up, it vaporizes away. In any case it’s a very graphic represntation of blow by at power. The upshot is if you’re not going to let the vapors go into the atmosphere, you better have a contingency plan to get rid of it!!! The modern PCV system does just that most manufacturers could care less if it decreases performance a bit. They just program in a little more safety margin in the timing curves. I would argue that anybody who has tuned their engine to remove some of the safety margin should run an oil separator to maximize the gains they should be getting.
The reason a separator is not required on the driver’s side is that is the clean air intake part of the PCV system. Fresh filtered air enters the crankcase from that point (In a healthy normally aspirated engine this will always be higher pressure than the valved side behind the throttle plate). With a healthy engine the only vapors that would travel up into that tube would be a very small amount of vapor left in the rocker box and would only occur after the engine has shut down. If the piston rings are in very poor condition with excessive blow by, it can get so bad that the entire PCV system becomes overwhelmed which actually pressurizes the crankcase and forces vapors out the clean air intake. This can also occur if the PCV valve sticks shut. If you ever see oil laying in the intake in front of the throttle plates this is where it’s coming from. In that instance the PCV system should be looked at to make sure all components are in good functioning condition. If they are, a cylinder leak check should be done on the engine to see how bad the blow by is and which cylinders are sick.
How it’s designed to work is, the clean air entering the engine passes through the crankcase and picks up condensate, oil vapor, mixes with and dilutes the blow by and is then drawn back out of the crankcase past the PCV valve on the low pressure side of the system. This keeps the pollutants out of the air we breathe and keeps sludge from building up inside the engine. Most hi-performance engines just use open breathers because introducing oil and oil vapor into the A/F mixture reduces its overall octane slightly and controlling sludge build up is of no consequence since most race engines are rebuilt frequently enough it’s not an issue. I’ve seen hi-performance guys fool around with PCV systems plumbed into their headers which works like a venturi to suck the vapors directly into the exhaust stream. The theory behind it was a vacuum inside the crankcase reduced parasitic loss. I don’t know that there is any data available to prove it one way or another.
John
Last edited by Horspla; 6/23/14 at 12:00 PM.
6/23/14, 12:58 PM
#93
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Can I get a quick clarification: is this separator relevant to the current "stock" V6 engines? Thanks.
Noted the odd V6 owners (I think) chiming in re this, so was wondering... Don't even know what access is at this point.
Noted the odd V6 owners (I think) chiming in re this, so was wondering... Don't even know what access is at this point.
6/24/14, 08:55 AM
#94
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Emptied mine out at 560kms, so 535kms since install. The line near the top of the cup is the one ounce line, so not a ton. But, it looks like the spout at the bottom is seeping ever so slightly. No drips below, just a bit wet. So I'll need to pull it off and redo the T-tape.
This is a bone stock 14 GT.
This is a bone stock 14 GT.
Burton,
Think a healthy engine doesn’t produce a lot of vapor at power? Check out this YouTube video link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsEf96u2ZFw That’s a 750+hp Gaerte 360 inch methanol injected motor (Best in the business). Check out the vapors coming out of the open breathers. The blow by is likely a little heavier than normal because the engine burns methanol. Those engines experience a lot of cylinder wash down when the engine is cold and at idle. The raw methanol that gets past the rings ends up in the oil. As the oil heats up, it vaporizes away. In any case it’s a very graphic represntation of blow by at power. The upshot is if you’re not going to let the vapors go into the atmosphere, you better have a contingency plan to get rid of it!!! The modern PCV system does just that most manufacturers could care less if it decreases performance a bit. They just program in a little more safety margin in the timing curves. I would argue that anybody who has tuned their engine to remove some of the safety margin should run an oil separator to maximize the gains they should be getting.
The reason a separator is not required on the driver’s side is that is the clean air intake part of the PCV system. Fresh filtered air enters the crankcase from that point (In a healthy normally aspirated engine this will always be higher pressure than the valved side behind the throttle plate). With a healthy engine the only vapors that would travel up into that tube would be a very small amount of vapor left in the rocker box and would only occur after the engine has shut down. If the piston rings are in very poor condition with excessive blow by, it can get so bad that the entire PCV system becomes overwhelmed which actually pressurizes the crankcase and forces vapors out the clean air intake. This can also occur if the PCV valve sticks shut. If you ever see oil laying in the intake in front of the throttle plates this is where it’s coming from. In that instance the PCV system should be looked at to make sure all components are in good functioning condition. If they are, a cylinder leak check should be done on the engine to see how bad the blow by is and which cylinders are sick.
How it’s designed to work is, the clean air entering the engine passes through the crankcase and picks up condensate, oil vapor, mixes with and dilutes the blow by and is then drawn back out of the crankcase past the PCV valve on the low pressure side of the system. This keeps the pollutants out of the air we breathe and keeps sludge from building up inside the engine. Most hi-performance engines just use open breathers because introducing oil and oil vapor into the A/F mixture reduces its overall octane slightly and controlling sludge build up is of no consequence since most race engines are rebuilt frequently enough it’s not an issue. I’ve seen hi-performance guys fool around with PCV systems plumbed into their headers which works like a venturi to suck the vapors directly into the exhaust stream. The theory behind it was a vacuum inside the crankcase reduced parasitic loss. I don’t know that there is any data available to prove it one way or another.
John
Think a healthy engine doesn’t produce a lot of vapor at power? Check out this YouTube video link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsEf96u2ZFw That’s a 750+hp Gaerte 360 inch methanol injected motor (Best in the business). Check out the vapors coming out of the open breathers. The blow by is likely a little heavier than normal because the engine burns methanol. Those engines experience a lot of cylinder wash down when the engine is cold and at idle. The raw methanol that gets past the rings ends up in the oil. As the oil heats up, it vaporizes away. In any case it’s a very graphic represntation of blow by at power. The upshot is if you’re not going to let the vapors go into the atmosphere, you better have a contingency plan to get rid of it!!! The modern PCV system does just that most manufacturers could care less if it decreases performance a bit. They just program in a little more safety margin in the timing curves. I would argue that anybody who has tuned their engine to remove some of the safety margin should run an oil separator to maximize the gains they should be getting.
The reason a separator is not required on the driver’s side is that is the clean air intake part of the PCV system. Fresh filtered air enters the crankcase from that point (In a healthy normally aspirated engine this will always be higher pressure than the valved side behind the throttle plate). With a healthy engine the only vapors that would travel up into that tube would be a very small amount of vapor left in the rocker box and would only occur after the engine has shut down. If the piston rings are in very poor condition with excessive blow by, it can get so bad that the entire PCV system becomes overwhelmed which actually pressurizes the crankcase and forces vapors out the clean air intake. This can also occur if the PCV valve sticks shut. If you ever see oil laying in the intake in front of the throttle plates this is where it’s coming from. In that instance the PCV system should be looked at to make sure all components are in good functioning condition. If they are, a cylinder leak check should be done on the engine to see how bad the blow by is and which cylinders are sick.
How it’s designed to work is, the clean air entering the engine passes through the crankcase and picks up condensate, oil vapor, mixes with and dilutes the blow by and is then drawn back out of the crankcase past the PCV valve on the low pressure side of the system. This keeps the pollutants out of the air we breathe and keeps sludge from building up inside the engine. Most hi-performance engines just use open breathers because introducing oil and oil vapor into the A/F mixture reduces its overall octane slightly and controlling sludge build up is of no consequence since most race engines are rebuilt frequently enough it’s not an issue. I’ve seen hi-performance guys fool around with PCV systems plumbed into their headers which works like a venturi to suck the vapors directly into the exhaust stream. The theory behind it was a vacuum inside the crankcase reduced parasitic loss. I don’t know that there is any data available to prove it one way or another.
John
So would it be fair to say, folks NOT running a separator, be it NA or FI, are slowly adding sludge to their engine, intake, etc, thereby decreasing performance and adding unnecessary wear to cylinders, etc? If so, that's a scary thought.
I guess the question could be, how MUCH of an effect does the sludge really have on the said parts? Is the effect negligible, because the real negative effect you will see is not apparent until 100k miles? 200k miles? 300k miles? Is that why "not" running a separator is "ok"?
6/24/14, 10:04 AM
#95
Cobra Member
Wow that's a lot for only that many miles. I've only had the blower on for about 1000 miles, but before that, I was NA, and had about 7k miles worth. I can't believe I was letting all that sludge through. Ugh. Never again. John... thanks for a fantastic post. I learned a lot over the course of just reading your 3 paragraphs. So would it be fair to say, folks NOT running a separator, be it NA or FI, are slowly adding sludge to their engine, intake, etc, thereby decreasing performance and adding unnecessary wear to cylinders, etc? If so, that's a scary thought. I guess the question could be, how MUCH of an effect does the sludge really have on the said parts? Is the effect negligible, because the real negative effect you will see is not apparent until 100k miles? 200k miles? 300k miles? Is that why "not" running a separator is "ok"?
Also keep in mind when you look at what people got out of the separator over X miles, that it is a vapor over a lot of time. I still don't like it, don't get me wrong. But it's not as bad as if you were to pour all of that straight into your intake.
6/24/14, 11:23 AM
#96
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One thing to note, I've read a few cases where brand new cars catch more and it reduces throughout break in. I'll just keep an eye on it and see what happens. We're only talking maybe a teaspoon or so. But that's a teaspoon of crap that won't go through my intake.
6/24/14, 12:16 PM
#97
Mach 1 Member
Burton,
“I guess the question could be, how MUCH of an effect does the sludge really have on the said parts? Is the effect negligible, because the real negative effect you will see is not apparent until 100k miles? 200k miles? 300k miles? Is that why "not" running a separator is "ok"?”
I think a lot of people are into splitting hairs! There are literally millions and millions of passenger cars out on the roads today without A/O separators and they function flawlessly and do so for many hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effects from ingesting a few teaspoons of oil every thousand miles. Case in point: My old Tortoise has 188,000 miles on it. Last summer I had to remove the upper intake manifold to do some routine maintenance on it. The inside of the manifold had an oily sheen on it but it was for the most part very clean all the way to valve heads. The valve heads had a very small amount of coking on them which is completely normal and would occur even if the PCV system didn't dump into the intake manifold. I have every confidence that engine will go another 100k miles, possibly more (the tranny probably not so much *&$%^$%@ Ford trannies). So in a passenger car I see no negative effects to how these systems are currently plumbed and equipped. From a manufacturer’s standpoint, including and A/O separator would add several dollars to the price of the car to fix a problem that doesn’t exist at the level of performance demanded of most grocery getters. A performance situation is different when you’re looking to get everything out of the engine you can. We never used them in our race cars and don’t in airplanes I take care of. Breathe the fumes Brotha!
“So would it be fair to say, folks NOT running a separator, be it NA or FI, are slowly adding sludge to their engine, intake, etc, thereby decreasing performance and adding unnecessary wear to cylinders, etc? If so, that's a scary thought.”
First you have to differentiate between: A) a standard issue PCV system without an A/O separator, B) a PCV system with a separator and C) an open breather system. Options “A” and “B” are active systems and “C” is passive. Option “A” keeps the inside of the engine pretty clean but can produce or contribute to some sludging and coking on the inside of the intake manifold and backsides of the intake valves as well as inhibit performance since it dumps the engines “Dirty” crankcase gasses into the intake manifold. Option “B” is a step in the right direction attempting to filter out some of those contaminants. From what I can see some of the better ones are fairly effective which should help reduce the amount of buildup in the areas of concern and keep oil out of the intake track maintaining a higher level of available peak performance. Option “C” is passive meaning there is nothing actively removing contaminants from the inside of the engine so yes, sludge will slowly build in those engines. However, the engine is no longer ingesting any of its f@rt gasses so intake track sludge build up is no longer an issue nor is detonation due to oil in the incoming charge. BUT in more ways than one it’s not a real friendly option; you’re likely going to smell crankcase gasses inside car since the cabin air intake is at the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. The vapors are going to film everything under the hood it comes in contact with and likely will contribute to windshield filming as well. It’ll take some time but slowly you’ll notice it.
Better quality synthetic oil will break down at much higher temperatures so less sludge is produced by it. However, moisture, fuel and exhaust byproducts are still entering the crankcase that produce sludge. Soft sludge isn’t really super badass nasty by itself but it’s by no means desirable! When soft sludge builds in hot places like valve stems and valve springs, heavy coking and varnish like deposits can grow that are extremely abrasive when they break loose and flow through the engine. When exposed to temps beyond its max service limit, the oil alone will do this as well (Look at the top ring lands, undersides of the piston crowns, valve stems and valve springs). A good quality oil with effective detergents will keep the crud in suspension until it reaches the filter rather than finding a convenient place to park itself.
John
“I guess the question could be, how MUCH of an effect does the sludge really have on the said parts? Is the effect negligible, because the real negative effect you will see is not apparent until 100k miles? 200k miles? 300k miles? Is that why "not" running a separator is "ok"?”
I think a lot of people are into splitting hairs! There are literally millions and millions of passenger cars out on the roads today without A/O separators and they function flawlessly and do so for many hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effects from ingesting a few teaspoons of oil every thousand miles. Case in point: My old Tortoise has 188,000 miles on it. Last summer I had to remove the upper intake manifold to do some routine maintenance on it. The inside of the manifold had an oily sheen on it but it was for the most part very clean all the way to valve heads. The valve heads had a very small amount of coking on them which is completely normal and would occur even if the PCV system didn't dump into the intake manifold. I have every confidence that engine will go another 100k miles, possibly more (the tranny probably not so much *&$%^$%@ Ford trannies). So in a passenger car I see no negative effects to how these systems are currently plumbed and equipped. From a manufacturer’s standpoint, including and A/O separator would add several dollars to the price of the car to fix a problem that doesn’t exist at the level of performance demanded of most grocery getters. A performance situation is different when you’re looking to get everything out of the engine you can. We never used them in our race cars and don’t in airplanes I take care of. Breathe the fumes Brotha!
“So would it be fair to say, folks NOT running a separator, be it NA or FI, are slowly adding sludge to their engine, intake, etc, thereby decreasing performance and adding unnecessary wear to cylinders, etc? If so, that's a scary thought.”
First you have to differentiate between: A) a standard issue PCV system without an A/O separator, B) a PCV system with a separator and C) an open breather system. Options “A” and “B” are active systems and “C” is passive. Option “A” keeps the inside of the engine pretty clean but can produce or contribute to some sludging and coking on the inside of the intake manifold and backsides of the intake valves as well as inhibit performance since it dumps the engines “Dirty” crankcase gasses into the intake manifold. Option “B” is a step in the right direction attempting to filter out some of those contaminants. From what I can see some of the better ones are fairly effective which should help reduce the amount of buildup in the areas of concern and keep oil out of the intake track maintaining a higher level of available peak performance. Option “C” is passive meaning there is nothing actively removing contaminants from the inside of the engine so yes, sludge will slowly build in those engines. However, the engine is no longer ingesting any of its f@rt gasses so intake track sludge build up is no longer an issue nor is detonation due to oil in the incoming charge. BUT in more ways than one it’s not a real friendly option; you’re likely going to smell crankcase gasses inside car since the cabin air intake is at the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. The vapors are going to film everything under the hood it comes in contact with and likely will contribute to windshield filming as well. It’ll take some time but slowly you’ll notice it.
Better quality synthetic oil will break down at much higher temperatures so less sludge is produced by it. However, moisture, fuel and exhaust byproducts are still entering the crankcase that produce sludge. Soft sludge isn’t really super badass nasty by itself but it’s by no means desirable! When soft sludge builds in hot places like valve stems and valve springs, heavy coking and varnish like deposits can grow that are extremely abrasive when they break loose and flow through the engine. When exposed to temps beyond its max service limit, the oil alone will do this as well (Look at the top ring lands, undersides of the piston crowns, valve stems and valve springs). A good quality oil with effective detergents will keep the crud in suspension until it reaches the filter rather than finding a convenient place to park itself.
John
Last edited by Horspla; 6/24/14 at 12:22 PM.
6/24/14, 12:26 PM
#98
Cobra Member
Burton, “I guess the question could be, how MUCH of an effect does the sludge really have on the said parts? Is the effect negligible, because the real negative effect you will see is not apparent until 100k miles? 200k miles? 300k miles? Is that why "not" running a separator is "ok"?” I think a lot of people are into splitting hairs! There are literally millions and millions of passenger cars out on the roads today without A/O separators and they function flawlessly and do so for many hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effects from ingesting a few teaspoons of oil every thousand miles. Case in point: My old Tortoise has 188,000 miles on it. Last summer I had to remove the upper intake manifold to do some routine maintenance on it. The inside of the manifold had an oily sheen on it but it was for the most part very clean all the way to valve heads. The valve heads had a very small amount of coking on them which is completely normal and would occur even if the PCV system didn't dump into the intake manifold. I have every confidence that engine will go another 100k miles, possibly more (the tranny probably not so much *&$%^$%@ Ford trannies). So in a passenger car I see no negative effects to how these systems are currently plumbed and equipped. From a manufacturer’s standpoint, including and A/O separator would add several dollars to the price of the car to fix a problem that doesn’t exist at the level of performance demanded of most grocery getters. A performance situation is different when you’re looking to get everything out of the engine you can. We never used them in our race cars and don’t in airplanes I take care of. Breathe the fumes Brotha! “So would it be fair to say, folks NOT running a separator, be it NA or FI, are slowly adding sludge to their engine, intake, etc, thereby decreasing performance and adding unnecessary wear to cylinders, etc? If so, that's a scary thought.” First you have to differentiate between: A) a standard issue PCV system without an A/O separator, B) a PCV system with a separator and C) an open breather system. Options “A” and “B” are active systems and “C” is passive. Option “A” keeps the inside of the engine pretty clean but can produce or contribute to some sludging and coking on the inside of the intake manifold and backsides of the intake valves as well as inhibit performance since it dumps the engines “Dirty” crankcase gasses into the intake manifold. Option “B” is a step in the right direction attempting to filter out some of those contaminants. From what I can see some of the better ones are fairly effective which should help reduce the amount of buildup in the areas of concern and keep oil out of the intake track maintaining a higher level of available peak performance. Option “C” is passive meaning there is nothing actively removing contaminants from the inside of the engine so yes, sludge will slowly build in those engines. However, the engine is no longer ingesting any of its f@rt gasses so intake track sludge build up is no longer an issue nor is detonation due to oil in the incoming charge. BUT in more ways than one it’s not a real friendly option; you’re likely going to smell crankcase gasses inside car since the cabin air intake is at the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. The vapors are going to film everything under the hood it comes in contact with and likely will contribute to windshield filming as well. It’ll take some time but slowly you’ll notice it. Better quality synthetic oil will break down at much higher temperatures so less sludge is produced by it. However, moisture fuel and exhaust byproducts are still entering the crankcase that produce sludge. Soft sludge isn’t really super badass nasty by itself but it’s by no means desirable! When soft sludge builds in hot places like valve stems and valve springs, heavy coking and varnish like deposits can grow that are extremely abrasive when they break loose and flow through the engine. When exposed to temps beyond its max service limit, the oil alone will do this as well (Look at the top ring lands, undersides of the piston crowns, valve stems and valve springs). A good quality oil with effective detergents will keep the crud in suspension until it reaches the filter rather than finding a convenient place to park itself. John
6/24/14, 04:09 PM
#99
Just got my Bobs Ultimate Firewall kit with the heat shrink fittings. Will install this weekend. Anyone else mount it to the firewall? May call and get the strut tower mount for it. I know its minor but I am just not into drilling holes in the firewall.
6/24/14, 04:58 PM
#100
Cobra Member
I got the strut mount for the same reason. I read that people drilled an extra hole in the mount so that it has two holes and won't move. I'm not sure why. Properly torqued, it isn't moving anywhere. Those heat shrink fittings sound cool though.