Lower suspension or wheels and tires first?
10/31/15, 07:47 AM
#21
Bullitt Member
I don’t track my car, but 2 mm of clearance is much too close for my liking which is why I suggested the thin 1/8” spacer. Here’s more reading about wheel spacers:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...s_spacers.aspx
I did another wheel–only test fit using an APEX 18x9 wheel which cleared my Brembo calipers by 5 mm without the need for a spacer.
http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-pr...l#.VjTFNJVzNLN
10/31/15, 12:40 PM
#22
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The SC-5 was a wheel-only test fit.
I don’t track my car, but 2 mm of clearance is much too close for my liking which is why I suggested the thin 1/8” spacer. Here’s more reading about wheel spacers:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...s_spacers.aspx
I did another wheel–only test fit using an APEX 18x9 wheel which cleared my Brembo calipers by 5 mm without the need for a spacer.
http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-pr...l#.VjTFNJVzNLN
I don’t track my car, but 2 mm of clearance is much too close for my liking which is why I suggested the thin 1/8” spacer. Here’s more reading about wheel spacers:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...s_spacers.aspx
I did another wheel–only test fit using an APEX 18x9 wheel which cleared my Brembo calipers by 5 mm without the need for a spacer.
http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-pr...l#.VjTFNJVzNLN
11/1/15, 05:47 AM
#24
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Does anyone have any experience with SR Performance springs? They're on sale right now at AM for about $100 less than the Steeda Ultralites and I'm strongly considering them.
11/1/15, 08:09 AM
#25
Shelby GT500 Member
How much are you going to track it? If you're going to use it several times a year on a track/autocross, get the wheels/tires first. If you lower it, you may--MAY--limit the tires you can put on the car. Get the parts that are actually necessary before you make it pretty.
I have a '13 500 and I'm looking at 18" wheels for racing right now. I would strongly suggest you talk directly with the manufacturer of any wheel you decide to buy if you have the big brakes up front to verify that they will fit over them. Some will, (BBK has some 18" wheels that are known to fit over them without modification), but most won't. Wouldn't be a bad idea to speak to a custom wheel fab shop either like TrueForged to determine what offsets you'd need for 18" wheels to fit.
Tires, if you're going to track it a lot, you will be better served by getting a second set of wheels, not replacing the ones you currently have. You'll also want a set of competition rubber that's designed for track use, such as the Toyo 888 for example. Very low tread wear rating (no higher than 140). Consider a SQUARE setup for anything other than drag racing (autocross, track days, etc.).
Suspension, I will tell you now to replace your panhard bar with a watts link if you spend any significant amount of time at the track/autocross. Yes, it really does make a difference. Again, if you're tracking it, get springs/shocks that will function well. That means money. You're going to spend more on sturdier, dependable equipment that won't need replacing after three track days. All depends on how much you want to really push the car. I went with the KW V3 because it allows me to raise and lower the car as I need, stiffen/soften the damping and rebound on all four corners. I push my car though, so you may not need something quite so pricey.
Good luck
edit: May want to speak to this guy re: tracking the car.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...chaels-129260/
I have a '13 500 and I'm looking at 18" wheels for racing right now. I would strongly suggest you talk directly with the manufacturer of any wheel you decide to buy if you have the big brakes up front to verify that they will fit over them. Some will, (BBK has some 18" wheels that are known to fit over them without modification), but most won't. Wouldn't be a bad idea to speak to a custom wheel fab shop either like TrueForged to determine what offsets you'd need for 18" wheels to fit.
Tires, if you're going to track it a lot, you will be better served by getting a second set of wheels, not replacing the ones you currently have. You'll also want a set of competition rubber that's designed for track use, such as the Toyo 888 for example. Very low tread wear rating (no higher than 140). Consider a SQUARE setup for anything other than drag racing (autocross, track days, etc.).
Suspension, I will tell you now to replace your panhard bar with a watts link if you spend any significant amount of time at the track/autocross. Yes, it really does make a difference. Again, if you're tracking it, get springs/shocks that will function well. That means money. You're going to spend more on sturdier, dependable equipment that won't need replacing after three track days. All depends on how much you want to really push the car. I went with the KW V3 because it allows me to raise and lower the car as I need, stiffen/soften the damping and rebound on all four corners. I push my car though, so you may not need something quite so pricey.
Good luck
edit: May want to speak to this guy re: tracking the car.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...chaels-129260/
Last edited by kcoTiger; 11/1/15 at 08:14 AM.
11/1/15, 09:39 AM
#26
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How much are you going to track it? If you're going to use it several times a year on a track/autocross, get the wheels/tires first. If you lower it, you may--MAY--limit the tires you can put on the car. Get the parts that are actually necessary before you make it pretty.
I have a '13 500 and I'm looking at 18" wheels for racing right now. I would strongly suggest you talk directly with the manufacturer of any wheel you decide to buy if you have the big brakes up front to verify that they will fit over them. Some will, (BBK has some 18" wheels that are known to fit over them without modification), but most won't. Wouldn't be a bad idea to speak to a custom wheel fab shop either like TrueForged to determine what offsets you'd need for 18" wheels to fit.
Tires, if you're going to track it a lot, you will be better served by getting a second set of wheels, not replacing the ones you currently have. You'll also want a set of competition rubber that's designed for track use, such as the Toyo 888 for example. Very low tread wear rating (no higher than 140). Consider a SQUARE setup for anything other than drag racing (autocross, track days, etc.).
Suspension, I will tell you now to replace your panhard bar with a watts link if you spend any significant amount of time at the track/autocross. Yes, it really does make a difference. Again, if you're tracking it, get springs/shocks that will function well. That means money. You're going to spend more on sturdier, dependable equipment that won't need replacing after three track days. All depends on how much you want to really push the car. I went with the KW V3 because it allows me to raise and lower the car as I need, stiffen/soften the damping and rebound on all four corners. I push my car though, so you may not need something quite so pricey.
Good luck
edit: May want to speak to this guy re: tracking the car.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...chaels-129260/
I have a '13 500 and I'm looking at 18" wheels for racing right now. I would strongly suggest you talk directly with the manufacturer of any wheel you decide to buy if you have the big brakes up front to verify that they will fit over them. Some will, (BBK has some 18" wheels that are known to fit over them without modification), but most won't. Wouldn't be a bad idea to speak to a custom wheel fab shop either like TrueForged to determine what offsets you'd need for 18" wheels to fit.
Tires, if you're going to track it a lot, you will be better served by getting a second set of wheels, not replacing the ones you currently have. You'll also want a set of competition rubber that's designed for track use, such as the Toyo 888 for example. Very low tread wear rating (no higher than 140). Consider a SQUARE setup for anything other than drag racing (autocross, track days, etc.).
Suspension, I will tell you now to replace your panhard bar with a watts link if you spend any significant amount of time at the track/autocross. Yes, it really does make a difference. Again, if you're tracking it, get springs/shocks that will function well. That means money. You're going to spend more on sturdier, dependable equipment that won't need replacing after three track days. All depends on how much you want to really push the car. I went with the KW V3 because it allows me to raise and lower the car as I need, stiffen/soften the damping and rebound on all four corners. I push my car though, so you may not need something quite so pricey.
Good luck
edit: May want to speak to this guy re: tracking the car.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...chaels-129260/
11/1/15, 10:11 AM
#27
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Does anyone have any experience with SR Performance springs? They're on sale right now at AM for about $100 less than the Steeda Ultralites and I'm strongly considering them.
11/1/15, 10:49 AM
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11/1/15, 12:39 PM
#29
We firmly believe in our products & stand behind them 100%.
We appreciate the feedback.
Best Regards,
TJ
I'd stick with the Steedas personally. If you can wait another month, they usually have a pretty good black friday sale.
Best Regards,
TJ
11/2/15, 07:29 AM
#30
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Ok, another couple of questions then...
I know this is subjective as hell but would ride quality be the same in regards to NVH if I lowered and kept the stock 19's? Would switching to 18's have any effect on NVH?
I like the stock setup because NVH is pretty muted over rough roads compared to my previous car, an 08 GTI.
I know this is subjective as hell but would ride quality be the same in regards to NVH if I lowered and kept the stock 19's? Would switching to 18's have any effect on NVH?
I like the stock setup because NVH is pretty muted over rough roads compared to my previous car, an 08 GTI.
11/2/15, 09:49 AM
#31
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Technically ride should be more damped with larger aspect ratio tire on the 18s. Chances are you'll have 45 aspect ratio, so more rubber between you and the road.
Practically, this also depends on how stiff the sidewall of the tire is.
Practically, this also depends on how stiff the sidewall of the tire is.
11/2/15, 10:06 AM
#32
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Road noise has a lot to do with the tires themselves also -- some are quieter than others, in the same size. TireRack's ratings might be helpful.
Like 5. said, assuming you keep the same overall tire diameter, an 18" wheel/tire has 1" more rubber and 1" less metal than a 19" wheel/tire (or 1/2" on the radius) . . . rubber tends to be squishier and quieter; metal is hard and transmits more noise.
Like 5. said, assuming you keep the same overall tire diameter, an 18" wheel/tire has 1" more rubber and 1" less metal than a 19" wheel/tire (or 1/2" on the radius) . . . rubber tends to be squishier and quieter; metal is hard and transmits more noise.
11/2/15, 06:31 PM
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11/4/15, 08:28 AM
#34
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11/4/15, 02:20 PM
#35
11/4/15, 03:01 PM
#37
By "classic" looking what do you mean? Unfortunately Brembo cars will not fit many low offset dished wheels (bullits for example) because of the caliper...
I'm in PR by the way!
edited:
try americanmuscle.com, they should have a 5 spoke wheel in 18" that should fit.
Mickey Thompson SC-5 (18") - says that they'll fit '13 Boss (which has our brakes)
I'm in PR by the way!
edited:
try americanmuscle.com, they should have a 5 spoke wheel in 18" that should fit.
Mickey Thompson SC-5 (18") - says that they'll fit '13 Boss (which has our brakes)
Last edited by ~KING~; 11/4/15 at 03:04 PM.
11/4/15, 03:44 PM
#38
Legacy TMS Member
If you can find a set, the American Racing Daytonas in 18x9 +24 offset. I've been looking for a set, but they're discontinued so they're hard to find.
11/5/15, 06:10 AM
#39
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King, by classic I meant wheels with thicker width spokes like the SC-5 not thinner spokes like the Forgestars. I had looked at the SC-5's but Silverstate777 mentioned in this thread that he did a test fitting and they cleared the Brembos by 2mm which is really very little clearance IMHO. He suggested a spacer, but I'm still researching safety issues on those. So far the SC-5's were my first choice. Is it OK if I PM you?
11/5/15, 06:15 AM
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