Motor failed when it spit a spark plug in cylinder 2. I installed a timesert however there was one already so I forced the old one into cylinder. The chunk of timesert bounced around then punched a hole right beside spark plug. So we put on new head. And from what I read the Amsoil performed stellar other than slightly thickening however adding oil would have thinned it slightly. It still performed stellar for 15000 miles. And once a uoa was performed the oil wasnt exhausted. It still had life left. And from what I read it performed light years better than mobil 1.

 

And Charlie. That comparison was a great find. Amsoil did thicken however the oil wasn't exhausted and was still viable. And after 15000 miles that test looks like a win to me. Shows me that even when neglected the oil still protected. Thick yes,but still useable

 

I still use mobil 1. Mostly because it's still a very good oil and it's readily available. I also change it every 3k in the cobra so it really makes not much difference anyways. I also use it in my tahoe because I don't keep track of when I have to change it and that thing has well over 200k. There are better oils for sure but unless I am full on road racing my car for hours at a time, I don't think that there is enough reason to justify anything more than mobil 1. Unless the better stuff is the same price and is at the local parts house.

 

Wha?? Didn't you read it? I followed your links to links. Or did you simply repeat manufacturers claims??

Stellar? You can spin it how you want. Going from 5w to 40/50 is a heck of a lot more than "slightly". Heck gear oil prob holds up a long while too - but does it reach the upper cylinder and does it lube in cold weather & cold starts? No.

What is amsoil's explanation for turning from 5w-30 to sludge??

An OHC mutli valve needs lube up top - esp on cold starts. Like Colin Chapman says "what happens above the cylinder is more important than what happens below". Need to protect those parts because they are providing the superior performance over a pushrod.


And again, they admit the test is skewed because amsoil was used after Mobil 1 was used for engine break in. Let's see the reverse. Plus they noted how much smoother the engine ran when they switched out of amsoil and back to Mobil 1.

And 17% decreased mileage from amsoil thickening is HUGE. I get 23 all aorund mileage (and 27 on straight highway). 17% drops me from 23 to 19. Suckville.

Regardless I don't care about extended life with synth or amsoil. Fact remains that all internal combustion engines have blow by. Smell what is caught in your oil seps. I'm not going to run 10k+ miles and keep recycling that blow by just because a synth manufacturer says the lube factor is still good. I want those contaminents out of my engine.

Each their own...

 

K. I use the 0w-30 sso line and send a sample to blackstone every second oil change. I change it roughly 15000 miles and they tell me consistently that I could run it for another 5000 without any worry. The only concern blackstone had with my uoa is silica. However since I went back to paper and threw out that k&n the silica was in check

 

It sounds like its pretty good but I don't get why it thickens.

And I have so many hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles on dino with 5k flushes that I don't think synth (Mobil or Amsoil) is worth the added cost.

But I respect your opinion.

 

Honestly. From my research and experience as long as you follow a 3000 mile oil change interval you will always be on the good end. I like Amsoil red line and rp simply because of the uoa I got back from blackstone. I am not saying other products aren't good I just like what I like. Thanks for the conversation. I like when an alternative point of view can be discussed like adults and something is gained by both parties. Eh

 

I'm shocked how high the oil change cost was. I pulled my previous two receipts and only paid $45 both times.

 

same oil i use- love it

 

The cost you gave me, Im sure is correct. I asked for a full synthetic instead of the blend.

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricant...ry=Motor%20Oil

 

Ahh, ok. That would explain the difference.

 

I'm fortunate enough my dealer sells coupon books 3 oil and filter changes for $40 plus tax. No joke. Any car they sell minus diesel trucks. I can't get 1 change anywhere else for that. There is no extra charge for the 8 qts either. no BS disposal fee or anything. You get your book and they tear off a sheet when you you go in. You can sit there and watch them do the change if you want.

 

Fords "full" synthetic really isn't. Readily available real synthetics are mobil's EP line not the 5000 or standard mobil 1,red line,Amsoil and royal purple,these products are derived from a group 4 and 5 basestock which is far superior due to the molecular structure. The molecules are all shaped the same. Group 3 and lower are a conventional base stock so the molecules are not all the same shape. That's one of the reasons why a higher mileage engine may spring a leak with synthetic,the molecules are all uniform and consistent,and synthetics also clean better and have less tendency to sludge. And red-lines diesel oil isn't a 'full' synthetic. It's a group 3 which uses a conventional base stock. And just to put an interesting fact out there. Wal-marts generic synthetic oil is actually mobil 1. Mobil has the contract to supply wal-mart believe it or not,so that super-tech oil will perform just as well as mobil 1. I sent voa samples to blackstone and didn't tell them which was which on their 5w-30 conventional. They sent back that the oil samples were identical. Go figure

 

It's fantastic stuff. I cannot wait til a 0w-40 comes out on that sso line. I tried mobil 1 European 0w-40 and the uoa came back that the oil was finished after 7500 kms. Never bought mobil again. In Europe the governments legislated that vehicles pollute less and motors last longer to conserve resources. So European automakers all spec a synth and most motors are spec'd an xw-40 because of a better/thicker oil barrier.

 

So i checked my oil yesterday finally. I have 2700 miles on it and the oil level is at the bottom line. I would say im about a qt low. I plan on bringing it in at 3000 miles.

 

I recently came across this tread and I decided to check the oil for the first. My car has 2,800 miles and found that reading the oil level is not very clear. As shown below, there is very little oil on the dip stick, but there is oil between the level indicator holes. Is anyone else experiencing a similar issue when checking your oil level? Note: I checked in the morning before heading to work.


But as shown below, I decided to check the oil on my 2006 Fusion V6 and the oil level is very clear. The oil coats the dip stick and the oil level very clear and easy to read. So you see my concern, is the oil level in my Mustang correct? What do you guys think?



I believe this is the part number of the dip stick. Is it the correct part for my Mustang?

 

Cali5.0, your oil level is LOW. The stick has gotten some oil scraped onto it along the sides during removal. Add a quart and recheck after a few moments. You might use some oil during break in, just add till oil level looks like your second picture.

You might want to check it a bit more often to see if oil consumption stabilizes now that you have a few miles on it.

 

Those trails on the sides sometimes almost cover the whole thing! This is exactly what happened to me. I was just as confused as you where till i noticed the thick oil right above where the twists end. It was low! Yours appears to be even lower than that. I dded 1 quart and not it looks more like your fusion but a bit lower

 

Sometimes the dipstick scrapes as you pull it out and that messes up your oil reading. It does it on my 4.6. Just flip the dipstick upside down and take a reading. You might be surprised at what you see all of a sudden!

HTH

Mike