I need help with reading the oil level on my 5.0?
5/30/11, 09:34 PM
#41
Cobra Member
Hey Slidejob, How often do you change you mobil 1 in your 05 GT? I change it every 10k in my wife's Camery and my 4runner(with256,000 mi). Haven't decided how I'm going to do it on my 5.0 yet. I just changed it at 1,000 miles after seating the rings driving it like i stole it.
ttt
5/30/11, 09:38 PM
#42
Hey Slidejob, How often do you change you mobil 1 in your 05 GT? I change it every 10k in my wife's Camery and my 4runner(with256,000 mi). Haven't decided how I'm going to do it on my 5.0 yet. I just changed it at 1,000 miles after seating the rings driving it like i stole it.
Oil, OF
Rotate tires
Bleed brakes
Inspect all wear items & under chassis for any needed repairs.
Car has been one of the best cars I have ever owned, real low maintenance.
You did the right thing changing the 5.0 at 1K, that is what I do on all my new cars. I plan on a 5.0 soon, I would most likely go 8K between changes as it has a higher capacity then the 4.6.
Last edited by slidejob; 5/30/11 at 09:49 PM.
5/30/11, 09:42 PM
#43
There's no way that car was full of oil when you bought it if you have added 2 quarts already and its still not on the stick. If it was full when you got it and has went down that much in that short of a time, it would have an obvious leak, or it would be smoking like a broken toaster.
5/30/11, 09:57 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
What kind of noise did you hear? Oil problems will generally not make any noise until the loud clang just before the engine seizes up completely.
Under acceleration you may here a pinging or knocking noise that is usually caused by pre-ignition which can be resolved by running higher octane fuel. But if it's not too loud and only happens occasionally under heavy acceleration you can safely ignore it.
Under acceleration you may here a pinging or knocking noise that is usually caused by pre-ignition which can be resolved by running higher octane fuel. But if it's not too loud and only happens occasionally under heavy acceleration you can safely ignore it.
5/31/11, 12:01 AM
#45
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I have never heard that when changing octane - which I often do.
And mine has the Advanced Spark Ignition System that was carried forward to the 10,11,12 like the OP. The ECU reads it instantly and pulls timing accordingly. You never hear it or know it. If it took a few tanks you could easily have damage already.
Last edited by cdynaco; 5/31/11 at 12:06 AM.
5/31/11, 06:00 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by cdynaco
I disagree.
I have never heard that when changing octane - which I often do.
And mine has the Advanced Spark Ignition System that was carried forward to the 10,11,12 like the OP. The ECU reads it instantly and pulls timing accordingly. You never hear it or know it. If it took a few tanks you could easily have damage already.
5/31/11, 07:42 AM
#48
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I go 25k miles on my oil in my truck
The mustang is at 2500 miles and will be changing it at 3k which the break in period is about over. And since ford will give me a free one ill change the next one when it has about 8k on the odometer.
adding 2 qts of oil this early OP is nuts- that engine has a serious leak or burning problem- or it wasnt filled up properly from factory. ill be checking mine tonight just in case mine is low.
The mustang is at 2500 miles and will be changing it at 3k which the break in period is about over. And since ford will give me a free one ill change the next one when it has about 8k on the odometer.
adding 2 qts of oil this early OP is nuts- that engine has a serious leak or burning problem- or it wasnt filled up properly from factory. ill be checking mine tonight just in case mine is low.
5/31/11, 10:54 AM
#50
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I dropped all the oil out of it and put in some pennzoil 5-30 just for the 3 mile drive to the dealership. I'm at the dealership now. They said that it was probably was not filled up all the way. I asked them to put a full synthetic instead of a blend and they're doing that for me. On the paperwork I noticed "5 quarts" I told him it was 8. He said that they'll make the necessary adjustment and that I should sign anyway.
I heard my car start ( LT,x-pipe,cat backs) so I get up and watch as they're moving it over to the oils change area. 1 service guy was unable to put it up on the ramp and the other one did but it took way too long. I guess they're just being careful.
The estimate was around $50. The paperwork better say full synthetic 8 quarts or I'm not leaving. LOL.
I know the service guys here... They remember my last 10 Stang and were asking where my white stripe was.
I heard my car start ( LT,x-pipe,cat backs) so I get up and watch as they're moving it over to the oils change area. 1 service guy was unable to put it up on the ramp and the other one did but it took way too long. I guess they're just being careful.
The estimate was around $50. The paperwork better say full synthetic 8 quarts or I'm not leaving. LOL.
I know the service guys here... They remember my last 10 Stang and were asking where my white stripe was.
5/31/11, 07:00 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by cdynaco
So this Amsoil was sub par?
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
And your 4.6 failed why?
5/31/11, 07:02 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by unas2k5
The noise I heard sounded like it came from the rear. I'm not sure.
The oil level is still right under or on that first hole after I put in 2 quarts. I don't understand.
When I first pull the dipstick after the car has been on I can see the oil. It's brown. As soon as I wipe it and dip again I don't really see any on there. It's low...still but why hasn't it grenades if it was that low?
The oil level is still right under or on that first hole after I put in 2 quarts. I don't understand.
When I first pull the dipstick after the car has been on I can see the oil. It's brown. As soon as I wipe it and dip again I don't really see any on there. It's low...still but why hasn't it grenades if it was that low?
5/31/11, 07:11 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by Everett
Cam position sensor is what was wrong with mine.
5/31/11, 08:21 PM
#59
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Re-read my post. I didn't knock it. Its the thickening that is crazy - esp when Ford specifies 5w-20 (I know your story about 5w-30). That's a big drop in fuel economy - and too thick of viscosity does not jive with cold starts. Esp where I live - moreso where you live.
And the Mobil 1 was on a new engine breaking in - whereas the engine was already loose and flushed when they ran the amsoil test.
OK - sensor explains the issue on reassembly - but why did your engine fail? I forgot.
*Amsoil is holding its own, except for viscosity. We've noted about about a 17% drop in fuel economy
*if only viscosity weren't so high! This stuff, which says 5W30 on the bottle, is now a middle 40 and is oozing its way toward 50! Bad news for engines that prefer thinner oil. Any connection to the fuel economy drop?
*Amsoil can last much longer than we initially thought possible. That is provided, of course, that you have no problem with the oil thickening way out of grade (many people don't, which is why we continued the test despite our own reservations about it now being a solid 40-weight oil).
*The main thing that stands out on this, our final Amsoil sample, is the ridiculous viscosity. This 5W30 oil has now thickened out to a 15W40 -- argue whether it matters if you like, but we believe engine builders spec an oil for a reason, and this oil is far, far thicker now than intended for the LS1. Switching to our flush Mobil 1 netted a nearly instant 10% improvement in fuel economy, and the engine runs a heckuva lot smoother too. To Amsoil's credit, wear metals remain in check, but we will soon see whether that was really thanks to the oil or just to engine break-in. We'll start posting detailed analysis in the coming weeks.
*Next up: is it true that Mobil 1 was handicapped by an engine still breaking in? We find out!
*if only viscosity weren't so high! This stuff, which says 5W30 on the bottle, is now a middle 40 and is oozing its way toward 50! Bad news for engines that prefer thinner oil. Any connection to the fuel economy drop?
*Amsoil can last much longer than we initially thought possible. That is provided, of course, that you have no problem with the oil thickening way out of grade (many people don't, which is why we continued the test despite our own reservations about it now being a solid 40-weight oil).
*The main thing that stands out on this, our final Amsoil sample, is the ridiculous viscosity. This 5W30 oil has now thickened out to a 15W40 -- argue whether it matters if you like, but we believe engine builders spec an oil for a reason, and this oil is far, far thicker now than intended for the LS1. Switching to our flush Mobil 1 netted a nearly instant 10% improvement in fuel economy, and the engine runs a heckuva lot smoother too. To Amsoil's credit, wear metals remain in check, but we will soon see whether that was really thanks to the oil or just to engine break-in. We'll start posting detailed analysis in the coming weeks.
*Next up: is it true that Mobil 1 was handicapped by an engine still breaking in? We find out!
Last edited by cdynaco; 5/31/11 at 08:29 PM.