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how to properly break in the new 5.0, mt82 and rear end ?

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Old 4/19/12, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LostGeographer

Excuse my ignorance, but what app is that?
The get in your car and drive the shiz out of it app. Now available in the 2011-2013 Ford mustang. Comes with a set if vroom vroom keys. Gas not included
Old 4/19/12, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Sky Hye
The get in your car and drive the shiz out of it app. Now available in the 2011-2013 Ford mustang. Comes with a set if vroom vroom keys. Gas not included


Old 4/19/12, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by AzPete
This is right out of the '11/12 Owners manual. I drove it like I stole it right off the lot.....no issues in 12,000+ miles.

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 100 miles (160 km) before performing
extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles
(1,600 km) before towing a trailer or before performance/competition
conditions. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.

Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the
Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil
usage.
OP, All you need to know is in those statements above, that I bolded and enlarged.

Speed variation. Get those rings to seat properly that way. Also, when coming to a stop, shift to a lower gear to let the rpm's rise and vary engine load.
Old 4/19/12, 01:53 PM
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That's my favorite part of the instructions, too! I made certain to follow the instructions to the letter!
Old 4/20/12, 01:30 AM
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I noticed something with the 6MT: the shift to 1st gear( from a stop) can sometimes go in with a bit of a soft crunch. pull it back, push into 1st again and goes in smoothly..but 2nd, 3rd 4th all go in with that rubbing crunch feel..i can make a video about it..
Old 4/20/12, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HizliBullet
I noticed something with the 6MT: the shift to 1st gear( from a stop) can sometimes go in with a bit of a soft crunch. pull it back, push into 1st again and goes in smoothly..but 2nd, 3rd 4th all go in with that rubbing crunch feel..i can make a video about it..
Is this on a 13? 11-12s are known to have notchieness in the shifting.
Old 4/20/12, 05:37 AM
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I had no choice but to break my Boss in on the 900 mile ride home from picking her up. Stopped for gas/food/nap/pee a few times so hopefully that helped vary the speeds. Changed the oil at 1,490 miles and check frequently and it's always in the middle of the marks on the dipstick. I'm Still considering installing a JLT oil separator though, but I've been very wary about voiding my warranty. I don't need to give Ford any excuses since I can't afford to replace drivetrain parts yet lol.

However I do have a bad transmission in her now at 2890 miles, but I can't see breaking the car in on a road trip home being the culprit.

Bill
Old 4/20/12, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MustangBillJr
I had no choice but to break my Boss in on the 900 mile ride home from picking her up. Stopped for gas/food/nap/pee a few times so hopefully that helped vary the speeds. Changed the oil at 1,490 miles and check frequently and it's always in the middle of the marks on the dipstick. I'm Still considering installing a JLT oil separator though, but I've been very wary about voiding my warranty. I don't need to give Ford any excuses since I can't afford to replace drivetrain parts yet lol.

However I do have a bad transmission in her now at 2890 miles, but I can't see breaking the car in on a road trip home being the culprit.

Bill

I'm not sure JLT traps enough blow-by based on some other recent threads. I think they must have it choked down cause other brands trap more.

However, the JLT is nice cause it uses the factory clamps for the PCV tube. Just unhook the spring clips, replace with the stock PCV tube for your oil change, then when you get home put the Sep back on.

Whereas mine I have to fool with a few hose clamps but I do it anyway cause I don't want a carboned up intake, head, valves, etc.
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