I have been looking at drive shafts and how to replace them. Specifically do you have to remove the exhaust. I see you don't but it takes 2 hours to remove and replace 8 bolts ? no way.
also I saw on one it told you that you had to replace the dif. mounting shaft?
do any of them come just bolt in with out doing any thing else?
I also saw on a thread here about a thump when putting the car I gear. If so I do not want that is it true?

I also read about tuners sticking the fan on all the time.
all I really want to do is kill the speed limiter. And a slight throttle lag remove. And maybe a slight hp bump .
my car is a pp stick.

 

No, you don't remove the exhaust. I drive the front up on ramps and jack up the rear and use 2 jack stands. Be sure to have a 12 mm 12 point wrench to break loose the u-joint bolts. I used a long breaker bar also. After they are loose you can use a normal 12 mm socket to make things go faster.

I've been running a tune on my 2011 v6 since around August 2010. Sometimes I feel the fan is running all the time but I've been paying more attention for the last few months and realize the fan isn't running all the time, just seems like it. Even if it was or is, I can't see it hurting anything. My motor still warms up fast on cold mornings. Good luck on your new driveshaft, very easy to do

 

I have the Axle Exchange on mine, didn't want a spacer for the rear dif mount, took an hour that included the Jacking it up and back down and more than likely at least 1 Bud Light.

 

Shaftmaters bolt directly. Zero vibration with easy install. Great people to deal with.

 

He has a V6, Last I checked ShaftMasters did not make one for the 2011-14 V6

 

Yep. I think they were the company that made driveshafts several years ago for the 2011-2012 v6 Mustangs. They had problems with vibrations and ended up buying back all of the driveshafts they had sold

 

I saw on another thread that the drive shaft was upgraded from a 2 piece toa 1 . the center bearing no longer there with is it a a slip flex joint or just a slip joint?
mine has what they are calling a one piece upgraded drive shaft which is supposed to be much stronger.
But I changed it anyway since I already had the new one. Figuring it would still be stronger and lighter. And the cars are still speedlimited so there must still be a reason.
I have the sr performance one. its 23 pounds the orginal is 32 lbs so its not 20 pounds lighter but even 9 lbs is lighter and less to spin up. I never had the vibration noise issues others talk about and still don't runs the same noise ran it up to the limiter with no problem. haven't run enough to tell if its quicker yet for shure thought it might be some but its only 9 lbs different.

but have the for shure good drive shaft now to get rid of the limiter ans some throttle lag

also on the diference in size the boot in the center that covers the slip joint is a little over 4 inches on the orginal drive shaft.

 

Yep, the 20 LBS weight loss is on the GT's with the center support bearing that gets removed when going with the aluminum driveshaft. SR Performance sold by American Muscle is made by Axle Exchange. Siber Express and I both have one . The factory slip joint in in the middle of the driveshaft. Making it more likely to 'flex' and separate at high speeds. Enjoy your new driveshaft, I have never heard of or read about an Axle Exchange aluminum driveshaft failing.