GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Disconnecting drive shaft for shifter install

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Old 10/12/05, 08:52 PM
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I may be going the Steeda Tri-ax shifter route instead of the Hurst/FRPP shifter due to a more solid design. Anyway I get the impression that I will need to drop the driveshaft to install the Steeda, unlike the Hurst where you can just feed it from the top. Am I wrong?

Who has a Ford .pdf on how to disconnect/reconnect the drive shaft?
Old 10/12/05, 08:57 PM
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I think that the Steeda and the Pro 5.0 shifters are very similar. I have the Pro 5.0 and did not have to remove the driveshaft to get it in, it did fit from the top. I just played with it until it when right in.
Hope this helps.

Scott
Old 10/12/05, 08:58 PM
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from what i know, all the aftermarket short shifters you have to drop the drive shaft, but if you have patience and time you can fed it through the top. I already went ahead and ordered my B&M shifter, it'll be here friday, I'll see if I can get B&M to send me a copy of the instructions 2morrow and see what they say about the drive shaft....
Old 10/12/05, 09:15 PM
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You can do it without dropping the driveshaft.
Old 10/13/05, 10:01 AM
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Originally posted by 169stang@October 12, 2005, 9:18 PM
You can do it without dropping the driveshaft.
I just received my Hurst shifter this week. Hopefully I do not have to drop it.
Old 10/13/05, 10:07 AM
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Can you remove the stock shifter without dropping the shaft? I replaced the bushings, and didn't think it would make it out witout dropping the shaft.
Old 10/13/05, 10:39 AM
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I just received the B&M instruction guide from them, my shifter come in 2morrow, there is no need to drop the driveshaft, look at the instructions....
Old 10/13/05, 11:04 AM
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I installed my Steeda tri-ax myself. Disconnecting the drive shaft was extremely easy. Its 4 bolts that hold it on. Take them out and pull back on the shaft and it comes off. Just mark the shaft with a marker so you can line the holes when you reconnect it. Taking the driveshaft off was about the easiest part of the whole job.

Just a tip. Jack up the entire car when you do the install, I mean all 4 wheels off the ground. You will need to turn the driveshaft to get easy access to all 4 bolts. Kinda hard to turn a driveshaft when the rear wheels are on the ground.
Old 10/13/05, 12:14 PM
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What do you torque the bolts on the driveshaft to when you put it back together? I think it's kind of important here.
Old 10/13/05, 01:29 PM
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[attachmentid=36112]
Originally posted by dustindu4@October 13, 2005, 12:17 PM
What do you torque the bolts on the driveshaft to when you put it back together? I think it's kind of important here.
On one hand it's simple to remove, the other, it's a pain to need all 4 wheels up, in neutral, no e-brake so you can turn the driveshaft. It'll be easier to use the e-brake when loosening or tightening. You just have to go back and forth, from under the car and out. 1. Go buy a new set of bolts from the dealership-roughly $6.00. You're not supposed to reuse the same bolts. 2. Torque to 76 ft.lb. 3. It's not necessary to remove the driveshaft for removal of the stock shifter or installation of the aftermarket shifter. It can be done, I and other's here have done it! Here's a pdf for removal of the driveshaft-above your quote.
Old 10/13/05, 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the .pdf Dave, is there one for changing the shifter out?

I feel more comfortable now doing this. I'll probably just drop the shaft now just to make the installation easier. I have banana hands.
Old 10/13/05, 01:36 PM
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no, I've looked high and low for it. Awhile back, I was looking for the shifter to get a part number for the actual shifter linkage that goes from the bottom of the shifter to the tranny.
Old 10/13/05, 02:47 PM
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I didn't drop my drive shaft for the install. But I see how it would make it easier to "get in there" with you sockets.
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