Gster

Changed the oil on my 2011 GT myself for the first time today. I'm pretty good at engine mechanics so this makes me mad. I have a little over 10,000 miles on my car. When I bought the car I got a free oil change because I told them I do everything myself, but getting the oil filter off for first time is hard. So at 3000 miles I take it to dealer and they change it no problem. I get a coupon in the mail to change it for 24.95, so what the heck I let them do it again at 6000 since its normally 75.00. At that point the tech tells me "hey it's a waist of money to change it every 3000 you can go 10,000 between oil changes". I was brought up by my dad to change oil every 3000 to 5000 mile
So that's what I'm going to do. Drain oil and only 7 quarts come out, but these cars burn oil so no big deal. Take plastic protective cover off and see oil filter has been leaking. At first I shrug it off, but when I clean it off to put a wrench on it I can turn it with not much effort with my bare hands. I'm not a weakling but I'm not the Incredible Hulk, this should have been tight. Imagine if I had gone 10,000 miles between changes. Am I wrong to be mad?

the_bottomless_pit

as much as i hate letting the dealer touch my car, thats the exact reason why i let them do the oil changes...because if anything gets screwed up, its on them and on the record. once warranty is up, though fair game

JosephCook78

I'd be mad too. That's why I'm not letting them do the free oil change on mine. I've ran into too many idiot techs that have torn up as much as they've fixed.

Example: '03 Dodge dually 4x4, 9" lift, 35's etc. sheared the flywheel bolts off in the crank...new shortblock installed-not very well at that. Intake valve too tight, could hear air being pushed back through air filter. They said the sound is because of my cold air intake...retards. Wouldn't check the valves. Fed up, I leave and drive about 3k miles, go to drain oil in my 5 gal bucket....MAYBE 3-4 quarts of oil in it. It held 12. Should have checked it after seeing the other work they did. Traded that thing in promptly!!!

SCHMOKN

Not to make light of the loose filter, but do you not check your oil between changes?

I don't let anyone touch my car unless it is something that I can't do or it is warranty work. My dealer gives free car washes with any work done, I wont let them do that!

Gster

Yes, but as long as its in between the top hole and the bottom hole the manual says leave it alone. I see a lot of threads about these cars burning oil so I thought it was a given. Now I know why I had that smell. Didn't smell it today.

HizliBullet

I'd be pissed. Good thing u know what to do I'd be yelling at ford

SCHMOKN

Gotcha. The only person I trusted 100% was my brother inlaw. Unfortunatley he no longer works for Ford!

JosephCook78

I think I'm going to install a catch can on mine, all of my LS cars sucked oil through the pcv valve and since mine is brand new, I like cheap insurance and peace of mind. I always did the "Home Depot" catch can route, I put an air compressor air/oil separator ($5?) with 2 barbed hose fittings and some 3/8 hose after the pcv valve and before the TB.

Gster

I was thinking of doing something like that too,but if the oil I was smelling was coming off the oil filter than problem fixed. One drop off oil on a hot engine makes a big stink.

JosephCook78

True, but I've read these engines like to suck some oil into the intake.

ledsled

I've been considering this myself and for everything I have read the oil filter should only be hand tight. I don't know what the specs are if any on an oil filter but too tight and you also have problems.

Thamac15

Not sure exactly how loose your oil filter was but it should be hand tight. Never tighten it with any Tool. Nothing I hate more than changing the oil for the first time and having to Arnold that thing off. My 12 jeep was so tight from the factory that the gasket stuck to the filter housing. My mustang was perfect. Just a little pressure with my adjustable filter wrench was all it took.

Flagstang

oil filters should always be hand tight. maybe it was a bad seal on the filter or it was cross threaded and did nto seat properly.

tom_vilsack

Used to do this for a living wayyyy back when (1979 cough cough)

You don't want filter over tight...here is good link.

"Place a few drops of fresh oil on your finger and wipe it around the rubber seal on the new oil filter. This will help the seal seat properly when the filter is installed. Then spin-on the new filter and HAND TIGHTEN it clockwise until it is snug. The filter should be turned about three-quarters of a turn after the rubber seal makes contact with the engine. You can use your filter wrench to final tighten the filter if you can't turn it 3/4 turn by hand. Just don't over-tighten it or it will be difficult to remove next time."

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_change.htm

Bucko

Must be that dealer. The one in Sanford Florida is a good one to deal with. While I have done all my own oil changes with this current Mustang, I have taken advantage of their oil change specials in the past when I had my 2005 Ford F150. I'd head on in Saturday, then talk with a sales rep that I got to be friends with. He'd sit down with me over a cup of coffee, and we'd chat. I ended up buying the Mustang from them because of this. I never had problems with their oil change service, or any other for that matter.

There are still some good ones around.

JCStang

I'm tired of them touching it...literally! I stopped the other day to get a Mustang brochure and one of the sales guys comes out...first off, once again, they ask if my Performance Package wheels are stock.....then he comments on how deep and wet the paint looks and before i can say anything he reaches out and rubs it.....then a few days later i take it in for it's first oil change (only had 1900 miles on it but i have had it since last october so thought i would get the first one out of the way). I happen to look out the window overlooking the work area and after the guy shut the hood he reaches out and rubs the front of the hood as if to remove his greasy finger prints....when i went out to get the car, the door and hood were covered in finger prints....might have looked goofy, but I immediately open the trunk, pull out a microfiber towel and my detail spray and remove the prints.

Gster

I know there are still good ones out there, but oil change is as easy as it gets when it comes to working on an engine. If your certified there shouldn't be something that simple overlooked. I know there busy because not many people work on there own car, but take your time and do it right.

Gster

Nothing goofy about that I do the same thing.

MustangGTPilot

Now my dealer has been very good to me over the years and i have a good relationship with them. However yesterday one of the techs screwed up. Car was in for regular service, brakes, filters, oil etc etc. I had just paid the bill and was walking back to my car and decided to read the work sheet. WOW says filled it with full synthetic 5W-40!!!

WHAT!! Go back inside and question this as car uses 5W-20. Yep mistake and they dumped a fresh batch of oil and put in new correct oil.

Now like someone already said, as much as I hate giving money to the Stealership for work I can do, until my warrenty is done I don't want to give Ford any reason to screw me should something break.

Oh and I only do oil when message center tells me and I get samples looked at by Blackstone Labs and oil has been just fine - you don't need to do every 3000 or so miles your wasting money.

Tony Alonso

This is a quote from the Mustang 5.0 article on the Coyote engine oiling -

"Coyote Oiling
Considerable work went into prepping the Coyote's oiling system for its 7,000-rpm redline and high-g Mustang home. It begins with thin 5W-20 mineral oil for reduced oil-pump-drive requirements, less internal drag, and quicker cold-start lubrication. Oil capacity was increased to 8 quarts, both to ensure adequate supply at high engine speeds and to increase oil change intervals to 10,000 miles.


Read more: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_1003_2011_ford_mustang_gt_50_coyote_engine/viewall.html#ixzz1z5gdszlI "