Best lowering springs?
#1
Best lowering springs?
I am torn between SR performance lowering springs and Steeda sport springs. Read all around and both seem like a very good product. This is my DD so ride quality is a must for me. Getting just the springs. So what do you guys think? Thanks!
#2
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BMR SP009's are the closest to stock specs for ride comfort. The Steeda springs are great but the spring rates are really stiff which is what you want for race track quality handling but are way too stiff for DD. I haven't seen the specs on the SR springs so someone else will need to chime in.
#3
BMR SP009's are the closest to stock specs for ride comfort. The Steeda springs are great but the spring rates are really stiff which is what you want for race track quality handling but are way too stiff for DD. I haven't seen the specs on the SR springs so someone else will need to chime in.
#4
I've got the SR springs and they are ok. I had the eibach pro kit on my last mustang and they were way smoother. I just have springs and no other suspension mods. Maybe it's different if you do shocks and struts and at the same time. Id go with the sportlines though. It seems that once you drop you always want to drop more so get the lower ones from the start.
#5
I can assure you ... you will be very happy with the Steeda springs.
We have designed, engineered & tested these springs, over and over until we found that sweet spot ... both on and off the track.
Send me an email at tim@steeda.com and we can get you into the spring thay fits your need ... based on your long term goals.
I look forward to working with you.
Beat Regards
TJ
We have designed, engineered & tested these springs, over and over until we found that sweet spot ... both on and off the track.
Send me an email at tim@steeda.com and we can get you into the spring thay fits your need ... based on your long term goals.
I look forward to working with you.
Beat Regards
TJ
#6
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There is no "best" because it depends on many things, "best" for one person / one use is not "best" for a different person / different use.
That said, I have the Steeda Sports and they suit me just fine . . . I daily drive the car and they are OK for that (a little firm and I like it like that) and I also track the car and they are OK for that too (definitely better than the stock springs) and the amount of drop is "just right"
Beware that, because the spring rate is higher than the stock springs, you really do want struts/shocks with more damping to go with them.
That said, I have the Steeda Sports and they suit me just fine . . . I daily drive the car and they are OK for that (a little firm and I like it like that) and I also track the car and they are OK for that too (definitely better than the stock springs) and the amount of drop is "just right"
Beware that, because the spring rate is higher than the stock springs, you really do want struts/shocks with more damping to go with them.
#7
#8
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I have Steeda Sports too, I daily drive my car, through the horrible streets of NYC no less. They are stiffer and you will feel it on the bad roads, I just go slower and around what I can. I have them paired with the adjustable Koni yellows, overall they are not bad for street driving. I only wish that these springs are a little lower.
Also check out the Steeda Ultralites, they are a less stiffer than the Sports and about 1/4 inch lower all around. I was thinking about making a switch to that or BMRs next Spring.
Also check out the Steeda Ultralites, they are a less stiffer than the Sports and about 1/4 inch lower all around. I was thinking about making a switch to that or BMRs next Spring.
#9
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I have Ford P springs and have no regrets for my DD. Mild drop to clear speedbumps and road irregularities, and progressive rate for comfort.
Do yourself a favor and upgrade to matching struts/shocks while you're at it.
Do yourself a favor and upgrade to matching struts/shocks while you're at it.
#10
So how's the quality compared to stock? Is their a big difference in stiffness? Thanks.
#11
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I also have these paired with the FRPP suspension kit. I love the feel. Compared to stock they are stiffer, but not uncomfortably stiff. The car feels more planted. Stock felt like driving a waterbed around turns and over bumps.
#12
On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the stiffest, where do you think the FRPP springs land?
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Springs and shocks need to work together. Springs by themselves bounce up and down; the shocks are there to "damp" the spring so it returns to height at a controlled rate and doesn't keep oscillating. Most of these lowering springs are stiffer than the stock springs; so they need more damping from the struts/shocks or you tend to get a bouncy and harsh ride.
Do you "actually need both"? No, you don't actually "need" any of this stuff. But it depends on how picky you are about the ride quality; I have seen a lot of people complaining that they lowered their cars (on the normal stiff lowering springs) and the ride sucked because it was bouncy; and others like earlier in this thread say the ride is fine with the old shocks.
If it was my money, and I was going to spend the time and money to take everything apart, I would put some better struts/shocks in there while I was at it.
Also when you lower the car, you tip the front wheels up and in. This is called negative camber. It can be good for handling, but it can make your tires wear unevenly (more wear on the inside). The adjustable strut mounts allow you to adjust / correct for this. Yes you can go without them. Again if it was my car and my money, I would do it right with the adjustable strut mounts (which I did on my car).
Last edited by Bert; 11/5/15 at 02:25 PM.
#15
A few of the posts have already commented on this . . . I'll explain further.
Springs and shocks need to work together. Springs by themselves bounce up and down; the shocks are there to "damp" the spring so it returns to height at a controlled rate and doesn't keep oscillating. Most of these lowering springs are stiffer than the stock springs; so they need more damping from the struts/shocks or you tend to get a bouncy and harsh ride.
Do you "actually need both"? No, you don't actually "need" any of this stuff. But it depends on how picky you are about the ride quality; I have seen a lot of people complaining that they lowered their cars (on the normal stiff lowering springs) and the ride sucked because it was bouncy; and others like earlier in this thread say the ride is fine with the old shocks.
If it was my money, and I was going to spend the time and money to take everything apart, I would put some better struts/shocks in there while I was at it.
Springs and shocks need to work together. Springs by themselves bounce up and down; the shocks are there to "damp" the spring so it returns to height at a controlled rate and doesn't keep oscillating. Most of these lowering springs are stiffer than the stock springs; so they need more damping from the struts/shocks or you tend to get a bouncy and harsh ride.
Do you "actually need both"? No, you don't actually "need" any of this stuff. But it depends on how picky you are about the ride quality; I have seen a lot of people complaining that they lowered their cars (on the normal stiff lowering springs) and the ride sucked because it was bouncy; and others like earlier in this thread say the ride is fine with the old shocks.
If it was my money, and I was going to spend the time and money to take everything apart, I would put some better struts/shocks in there while I was at it.
#16
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Make sure the springs are compatible with the original mounts, and yes the springs should go on. There could be some technicality on the 2011+ cars that I am not aware of; on my 2010 the springs can be changed on the original struts and mounts, no problem. But again not the best result. For clarification on what AM is saying, AM is probably the best to ask specifically what they mean/ why they are saying that.
#17
Make sure the springs are compatible with the original mounts, and yes the springs should go on. There could be some technicality on the 2011+ cars that I am not aware of; on my 2010 the springs can be changed on the original struts and mounts, no problem. But again not the best result. For clarification on what AM is saying, AM is probably the best to ask specifically what they mean/ why they are saying that.
#18
Make sure the springs are compatible with the original mounts, and yes the springs should go on. There could be some technicality on the 2011+ cars that I am not aware of; on my 2010 the springs can be changed on the original struts and mounts, no problem. But again not the best result. For clarification on what AM is saying, AM is probably the best to ask specifically what they mean/ why they are saying that.
#20
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I'd say about a 5 or so. Going over a speed bump is not jarring and you certainly don't feel every little crack in the road. They are relatively smooth. I can't say this enough: If you get springs, also upgrade the shocks snd struts. Do it right the first time. I learned the hard way.