2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

Adjustible Panhard Bar- why does it matter?

Old Mar 14, 2015 | 11:33 AM
  #21  
GBStang13's Avatar
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From: San Tan Valley AZ
I lowered my ride 1.5" and needed an adj bar. Now I got it and got a few questions. The bar is from sr performance. Question I got is with the hardware where do I use those crush washers? On the body mounts or the mounts where sr bar meets the end links?
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 12:11 PM
  #22  
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It you want to lower it & correct the potential issues that could occur, along with a shifted rear end ... then this is a small investment.

TJ- I can agree 100% with that... if/when I do install an adjustable panhard bar, Steeda will be the direction I go (still waiting for AM to get your CAI back in stock, btw ).

Of course, you guys also make an impressive looking Watts Link- a bit more expensive, but I'm guessing even I would notice the ride improvement from one of these. I'm guessing this also might eliminate the very slight levels of axle hop still left after upgrading the LCAs.

Last edited by Varilux; Mar 14, 2015 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 02:47 AM
  #23  
David Young's Avatar
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From: Clinton Tennessee
I have one on my v6
Attached Thumbnails Adjustible Panhard Bar- why does it matter?-img_0458.jpg  
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 07:47 AM
  #24  
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I have one on my v6
How has it performed for you? We have had many people purchase it ... but we haven't received a lot of feedback from the members that are running it!

Would love to hear your feedback!!

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:02 AM
  #25  
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I am definitely interested in going the Watts link direction so any feedback on these setups would be great! I can't decide on what setup to run. A custom setup from differenct manufacturers or Cortex racing who I know many Boss mustang racers use.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 02:56 PM
  #26  
David Young's Avatar
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Originally Posted by tj@steeda
How has it performed for you? We have had many people purchase it ... but we haven't received a lot of feedback from the members that are running it!

Would love to hear your feedback!!

Best Regards,

TJ
Its very quiet. The rearend feels more planted on rough roads. I'm going to give it a good workout when i install my springs next month (one of my Birthday presents from my wife ) I like it
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 02:58 PM
  #27  
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Let me know if you are getting the Steeda springs ... I can help with pricing!

Thank you for the feedback thus far.

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 04:50 PM
  #28  
David Young's Avatar
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I ordered them from you. My wife won't even let me open the box to look at them until my Birthday, next month
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by tj@steeda
If the car is lowered, not putting in a adjustable PHB will mean the rear axle on the car is permanently 1/2 inch pushed over to the drivers side. That will put side stress on the control arms and the driveshaft that they were not designed for. So it can cause premature failure of those parts.

Even with stock tires, you’ll notice that the rear is pushed out to the left. If you have wide tires and upgraded wheels, you’re almost guaranteed to rub without the use of a panhard bar. - See more at: http://www.steeda.com/blog/2013/12/s....CVo7jfi5.dpuf

The Steeda adjustable panhard bar is 40% lighter than its stock replacement and is 31% lighter than our closest competitor. We make our bar out of 4130 chrome moly steel which is stronger than the stock mild steel piece. This improved design over our original one allows for center adjustability using a CNC machined chrome moly steel adjuster and CNC chrome moly threaded inserts, precisely engineered to provide an easy adjustment while also allowing for an extremely high quality fit. The new center adjustment point also means no wrench fitment or installation issues.

Best Regards,

TJ
I did springs & phb only (no shocks struts) and I swear my car will hang with a Boss on a road course. Night & day difference.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #30  
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I ordered them from you. My wife won't even let me open the box to look at them until my Birthday, next month
Ahh yes, I do remember ... she drives a hard bargain, lol!

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #31  
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I did springs & phb only (no shocks struts) and I swear my car will hang with a Boss on a road course. Night & day difference.
That is the Steeda difference!

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:14 PM
  #32  
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From: Hickory Creek, TX
David,

How was the install process on the Watts? Something you can do in the garage- or something that needs to go to a shop? I have Vorshlag nearby (who specialize in suspensions on Mustangs), but I like to do most stuff on my own.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 03:02 AM
  #33  
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From: Clinton Tennessee
I'll be 62 next month (old fart ). I installed it myself (2 times) without any help. Just back up on ramps and you'll have plenty of room
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:25 PM
  #34  
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I'd like to correct and clarify some of the information in this thread.

When Ford designed the S197 chassis, they installed the axle housing where they intended to. The housing is designed to be centered within the fenders when the rear suspension is under a full bump condition. Since the housing moves sideways a little bit with travel due to the Panhard bar, the housing must be a little bit off center at ride height. This guarantees the minimum clearance (closest on either side) between the tire and fender will be the greatest. When the axle is moved in either direction at stock ride height with a Panhard bar, and the rear suspension is put in the worst case situation, full bump, the tire on one side is going to hit the fender much sooner. By moving the housing from its stock position, you increase the chances of tire interference.

In some racing applications Panhard bar adjustments are made to change the handling of the car. One or both ends of the Panhard bar is raised or lowered to make changes to the roll center height. In the situation being discussed here, the overall length of the Panhard bar is being changed to affect the lateral position of the axle housing within the chassis. This has almost no affect on the handling behavior.

Installing an aftermarket Panhard bar with stiffer bushings will improve the responsiveness of the car by eliminating deflection and possibly reducing friction.

Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

Last edited by Jack Hidley; Mar 18, 2015 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jack Hidley
I'd like to correct and clarify some of the information in this thread.

When Ford designed the S197 chassis, they installed the axle housing where they intended to. The housing is designed to be centered within the fenders when the rear suspension is under a full bump condition. Since the housing moves sideways a little bit with travel due to the Panhard bar, the housing must be a little bit off center at ride height. This guarantees the minimum clearance (closest on either side) between the tire and fender will be the greatest. When the axle is moved in either direction at stock ride height with a Panhard bar, and the rear suspension is put in the worst case situation, full bump, the tire on one side is going to hit the fender much sooner. By moving the housing from its stock position, you increase the chances of tire interference.

In some racing applications Panhard bar adjustments are made to change the handling of the car. One or both ends of the Panhard bar is raised or lowered to make changes to the roll center height. In the situation being discussed here, the overall length of the Panhard bar is being changed to affect the lateral position of the axle housing within the chassis. This has almost no affect on the handling behavior.

Installing an aftermarket Panhard bar with stiffer bushings will improve the responsiveness of the car by eliminating deflection and possibly reducing friction.

Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
VERY informative. I was strongly considering buying a PB for my stock-height V6 for appearance purposes given my aggressive offset wheels. If I understand your post correctly, a) there would be almost no difference in handling, and b) in a 'full bump' situation, damage to the car could result.

I've crudely measured the difference between the sides to be 3/8". Does that sound about right? I guess I'll live with it. It's more noticeable with the new wheels to the trained eye, for sure. But, I don't think it's worth the change if there'll be virtually no handling improvement, and an increased risk for damage.
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