emilram11

Hi guys, looking for suggestions for cleaning my 5.0, inside and out. I was reading the manual and it recommends all ford cleaning products (Motorcraft). Not sure how good those are. Which brands do you use?

What do you guys recommend for the interior 400a package:
interior: aluminum panel, leather seats, dash, plastic and trim on doors
exterior: paint, plastic, tires, 19inch aluminum rims

What are the steps you follow to clean your car?

I appreciate any advice to keeping the car look perfect!

Mods, please leave this in the 2010+ forum. I want proven products for this model's trim.

Thanks,
E

stangfoeva

in for the tips

2011 Fastback

I use mothers products inside and out, and have not had a problem....

emilram11

Cool. Can you elaborate a little? Do you just use one interior cleaning product? Which exterior product(s)? Looking for as much info as you can provide so I can make a shopping list based off recommendations.

mustang1979

here is what i use:
1. Wash = Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax, Microber mitt
2. Clean = In order when needed; Meguiars Clay bar, SwirlX, ScratchX2.0, Ultimate Compound
3. Polish = CROFTGATE USA Quick N Slick spray on, creates a ridiculous smooth surface (*used to use Meguiars Ulitamte Quick Wax)
4. Maintan/Clean = CROFTGATE USA Aquanil-X Wash n Wax, great product and can be used on all surfaces and wash your car completely with it!*(used to use Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer)


Interior
1. Leather - Meguiars Quick Wipes
2. Vinyl - Natural Shine Vinyl and Rubber
3. Everyday use; Quick Interior Detailer (for all vinyl/leather).

As you can see, I was a diehard Meguiars fan, but CroftgateUSA has proved to me, alternatives exist with superior quality.

ShowCar

I can help. I own a detail business. PM me and I can walk you thru everything.

emilram11

Great info. So can you explain to me the purpose of the #2 items? In what circumstances would you use those types of products (like a clay bar versus the others)? Also, what would you recommend to clean the aluminum parts in the car (like the panel, shift **** top)?

PM sent!

2010MustangGT

I've owned my 2010 now for a lil over 11 months (wow... doesn't feel that long) And I feel every wash it actually looks better!

Interior
Leather: I use Meguiars Leather cleaner/conditioner. (Many too have success with Lexol)
Other surfaces: Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer wipes for all the soft touch materials (arm rest, door, dash...)
Dust: I just use Swiffer dust cloths... I avoid microfiber on the interior as it collects and keeps the dust- so then once you use it again, you are more prone to just rubbing it in.
Shine: Windex Wipes

Exterior
Tires: westley's bleche wite- spray the hell out of the rubber, using a bristle brush clean the tire- every piece of stuck on dirt comes off, works amazingly well. Rinse off. (You can do the wells too).
Wheel: Rinse, Meguires Gold Class Soap- I just use a cotton rag ("Terry Cloth") and get into every nook, rinse.
Body: Rinse, Meguires Gold Class Soap, I use a half microfiber bristle half sponge w/netting. Rinse.
Dry: I normally just get the majority, I get the little water spots through detailing.

Other Stuff
Clay Bar: I use Meguiars system. But there's many other comparable ones out there.
Wax: I honestly just use NuFinish. Haven't been disappointed. I hear Zaino system is really intense tho.
Detail (For inbetween waxing): Meguiars Quick Detailer. I've used others, and they're relatively the same, but theirs doesn't drip when you spray it on. It sticks to the spot. I use a microfiber towel for these...
Surface Scratches: Nufinish Scratch remover.
Tire Shine: Meguiars Insane tire shine. Stuff is the shiniest ever. I spray it onto a wax applicator pad, and go around the wheels- otherwise you risk overspray onto the body. And residue once driving. (experience).
Molding: Black Magic Tire foam... I know it says tire but works well on the molding. I spray it on to a cloth and wipe it down. Gives it a wet look, shines well.
Chrome: I just use windex wipes. There's not a lot on the car so I don't use a chrome polish... I did and it wasn't worth it for me.


This takes me about 2 hours... But I enjoy it. You can't look at it as a chore... 95% of the products are found at any given auto store.

A few testaments of my work!
(no pic adjusting) You can check them all here

raidernixon

The outside is pure preference, but check out my black 5.0 in my photo album on my profile.

I use
Turtle wax ICE car wash
Zaino cleaner wax
Top it off with a final wipedown of Meguires quick Auto Detailer

For the interior:

DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL! I dont know why that crap hasn't been shut down yet...it truly does so much more harm than good, and they get away with tricky advertising claims that it helps your dash. Yes, it makes your interior shiny, but essentially it is greasy and AMPLIFYING the UV effects on your dash and components exposed to sunlight! This will really start to show later in the cars life. Armor all for tires, and tires only!

That being said, I have kickass results using:
Lexol Leather Cleaner
Lexol Leather Conditioner (use twice a month to keep the leather from cracking and fading)
303 Aerospace Protectant (This stuff is incredible! its not greasy, a full uv protector and it adds a little shine and color depth to interior components! ) I use this on all of the plastic bits outside the car as well. SO much better alternative to armor all!

The 303 stuff Im talking about is here: http://www.303products.com/shop303/i...protectant.cfm

06GT

Optimum No-Rinse for wash soap, Optimum Spray Wax for waxing.

For plastics, dilute some Meguiar's Hyper Dressing.

wannabe

I'll stick my tip in here (again) for blowing the car with a leaf blower after washing. Not so much to actually dry it, but to blow all the water out from under/behind the various lenses, grille, spoiler, windows, etc. It makes a helluva big difference because you won't be chasing drips for two hours. Especially good for the wheels, too.

stangfoeva

did you hear about the guy who burned his car down to a crisp leaf blowing his interior recently?

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/08/19/o...che-boxster-b/

WildPony619

For the exterior, I'm still experimenting with different products but a majority of the products I've used so far were Meguiars.

For the interior, dash and door panels, I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Protectant and it works awesome. It has a clear coat UV protectant and the shine lasts a long time (about 3-4 weeks or more). This stuff is so good you have to actually let it cure for a few hours. I've also used it on the exterior black trimmings as it says on the bottle that it works for that too. The black trimming now looks real dark and sharp and stays that way for awhile too. Apparently it doesn't drip residue when it gets wet so another plus.

emilram11

I have some more questions.

Can anyone explain the "systems" behind cleaning your car? I've never used a clay bar, dont know the difference between wax and polish, etc. Some 10a1 stuff but I'm not embarrassed to ask. I've always just used car wash soap and plain ol' turtle wax (the old school kind).

How do you guys get dried dead bugs off the front bumper/end?

Have any of you tried Turtle Wax Ice Polish? Someone game me a package as a gift.


Thanks for the advice.

RedWings

Car Wash: Opitinum No Rinse (ONR) or Meguiars Gold Class
Wash Mitt: Lambswool and/or Microfiber
Drying Towels: Waffle Weave Microfiber or very plush microfiber drying towels

Polish/Sealant: Opti Seal or Optimum Polish II (with dual action polisher). If by hand, I'd use a one step product like Duragloss or Klasse AIO.

Wax: Nattys Blue but usually Duragloss Aquawax after each wash.

Tire Shine: High Endurance Gel but I'm trying 303 Aerospace Protectant now and like it. I'm going to try Duragloss 253 next. I prefer more of a matte finish that gives that new tire look instead of a high gloss that looks fake.

Interior plastics/vinyl: Aerospace 303 (this stuff is great). No greasy leftover feel. Not too shiny. Leaves the dash/plastics looking new. Plus it has UV protection.

Glass: Stoners Invisible Glass + Glass Cleaning Towel

Leather: Lexol Cleaner / Lexol Conditioner

For the most part Microfiber / Lambswool is the only thing that touches my paint. All towels/mitts are washed separately from normal things around the house. If they need more than a rinse, I'll put a tiny bit of woolite in it. Mitts get air dried. Towels may get a low heat in the dryer. NEVER EVER EVER use fabric softner / sheets with microfiber.

RedWings

A normal process I do every 6 months is:

1. Claybar. It is very easy to do. Just make sure you use enough clay lube / quick detailer. After doing a panel, mash the clay up and flatten again before the next panel. This is what pulls all the contaniments from the paint. Really helps with the shine and feel of the paint. You can also use a claybar to get those bugs off.

2. Polish is the act of correcting/deep cleaning the paint. An all-in-one (AIO) polish like Klasse is a chemical product that has no abrasives in it. So you probably would not damage the paint using it and it has minimal correction abilities. On newer paint without any swirls, a product like Duragloss or Klasse AIO would be fine. If you have a lot of correction required, you are going to need a polish with some abrasives in it. But be careful that you don't damage the paint.

3. Wax is a protectant. Like a condom on your paint. But after time, it wears away.

So the polish corrects/cleans the paint and the wax protects it from getting damaged by the elements.

You can also apply a paint sealant after the polish to help protect it also.

So what I do once every 6 months is claybar, polish/sealant, then wax. Then I apply aquawax after each wash. Regular washing using the correct method(s) plus waxing when required will keep it looking new.

If there are bugs that won't come off with the claybar, try a good tar/bug remover. But be careful because I believe this stuff will also strip any wax off.

RedWings

There are a million products out there in all different price ranges. Everyone has their own preferences so you really need to find what is best for you.

If you are trying to keep your paint looking new, but don't want to spend a ton of time polishing/waxing/etc.. and don't want to spend an arm/leg, I suggest:

1. Meguiars Gold Class shampoo, Good microfiber/lambswool mitt, microfiber drying towels. All can be found at Target/WalMart/Advance Auto. Use a two bucket method (1 with soap, 1 for rinsing mitt after each panel).

2. Claybar at least once a year. Twice is good but not required. Can be found at WalMart/Advance Auto

3. All in one product if you are applying by hand. Duragloss i've used and have been happy with. Find it at CarQuest. Goes on easy, doesn't stain trim, and can be applied in the sun.

4. Duragloss Aquawax. It is a spray on, wipe off product. You can find it at CarQuest also.

Claybar once or twice a year. Polish/Wax twice a year (Fall/Spring). Use an aquawax every other wash.

emilram11

-- I just got my car last week. Should I worry about claybarring it or waxing it already?

Thanks for the advice Redwings. I really appreciate it. The frequency info is helpful too because I'm wondering how often people do all this. I want to maintain it in nice condition but don't want to overkill it either.

Thanks again! I will be studying all the tips here and come up with my list of products to try and my plan for the first cleaning!

tom_vilsack

Whats good for vinyl vert top...cleaning and then uv and rain protection???

RedWings

I claybarred my car a week after I got her. While the paint was mostly n great shape, there were a few spots that I could feel needed a claybar. Especially below the drivers and passenger windows above the door handles.

You could probably read for months and get a million different methods and opinions on how to do it and what to use. Best bet is to stick to the basics for now using products that are not priced through the roof or stuff possibly found at a local retailer.

I'm not a pro at this but just a weekend enthusiast. I figure I would just share what I've learned over the years which have resulted in paint that has continued to look how it want it to, without spending more time on it that I would like, and still fitting within my budget.