Stage_3

Maybe because the "recirculate" button was pressed when you disconnected the battery and it remembered the button being on? Maybe if everything was off, it would be okay?
Hopefully you get it fixed soon. As least it's not stalling anymore.
Good luck Pete and let us know the outcome.

Varilux

Actually, I'm quite happy with the recirc default- that's an interesting theory about why it might be set to come on every time now (i.e., that it was on when I disconnected the battery). I will have to turn the traction control off and try disconnecting the battery to see if I can accomplish the same thing (would LOVE to have traction control default to off).

Stage_3

HA HAAAAAA I know, right?
Good luck man. Let us know how you make out.

Varilux

Actually, another (perhaps related) issue popped back up today...

Especially when the car is still warming up, the throttle response occasionally just dies when shifting from 1st to 2nd.

This morning was a prime example. From a stop I ran 1st up to around 4k RPMs, shifted into 2nd, hit the gas and... nothing. For about 1 second the throttle had no response and the RPMs did the same "nose dive" they do when the car stalls.

In both cases, it seems as if the throttle just doesn't know what to do when the clutch is engaged and the foot is taken off the accelerator. Normally, the RPMs hold momentarily and then slowly descend- but for some reason on occasion the bottom just falls out.

The latest issue of Mustang Monthly (which has been bought / merged yet again- ugh) had a mention of this device- I wonder if it might fix the throttle issue I'm having? Anyone have the PedalMax from JMS?
http://www.jmschip.com/pedalmax-2011...ford-vehicles/

In the meantime, I'm told Ford Racing is "looking into it, and we will be getting back to you on this." So, perhaps there will be a solution from them.

Horspla

For some reason I recall hearing about a throttle position relearn procedure that's sometimes required after a tune or engine mod. Don't know if it's true or applicable in this situation but might be worth asking about. At first I thought the issue was a sticking IAC but the Coyote doesn't have one. Idle air is supplied by the throttle body butterfly.

Good luck,
John

Varilux

Actually, the relearn was suggested earlier in the thread. I performed the relearn, which did improve things somewhat- but I'm still having the "diving RPM" issue.

There seems to be something to it, because its taking them a while to get back to me with a solution (I'm hoping that means they're trying to replicate/remediate the issue).

Horspla

I was under the impression that the "Idle Relearn" and "Throttle Position Relearn" are two different procedures.

John

Varilux

Ah, I didn't catch the difference between idle relearn and throttle position relearn. I did some searching, and discovered the following procedure. I will give it a try this evening.

1. Disconnect battery for at least 20 minutes
2. reconnect battery.
3. Turn key to accessory position (before it engages the starter)
4. slowly depress pedal from idle to WOT spanning a duration of 5 seconds
5. slowly release pedal from WOT to idle spanning a duration of 5 seconds
6. start car

Haven't heard back from Ford Racing yet... still hopeful.

Varilux

Okay, I think the problem may be solved!

I stopped at my Ford dealer this evening, and the service advisor looked up my info and said "Oh, its been over a year since the tune was installed- well, make an appointment and we'll look into it... you'll have to leave the car with us for 2 or 3 days."

Um, no. I went home and got out my Ford Racing ProCal tool. First, I hooked it up and confirmed 1.) there were no DTCs, and 2.) the tune actually had been installed (and it was set to the 93 octane setting). So far, so good...

Based on the advice in this thread, I disconnected the battery and then opened up the throttle body to see if there was any build-up (you have to remove the strut bar and engine cover first). There was some oil-smelling black build-up (but not much), so I cleaned that up and reinstalled. After 20 minutes, I hooked the battery back up, turned the key to "ON," and completed the throttle relearn procedure. Then, I started the car and completed the idle relearn procedure. Then I went for a drive...

Almost immediately, I could tell a difference! The throttle seems a lot more responsive (less tendancy to bog down when starting from a stop), and the RPMs do not seem to be "nose diving" when I press the clutch in. I'm pretty sure this has solved the problem- and I think its the throttle relearn that did the trick (so, for those who have PM'd that you have the same problem with your tuned car, try the throttle relearn procedure).

The only downer is- as I figured- recirculation on the climate control is no longer set to default (if anyone knows how to make recirc the default again, I would LOVE to know it). However, that's a small price to pay if the car is driveable once again!

Stage_3

That's awesome.
I hope that fixes it for good Pete! Good luck.

dohc97

Do you just disconnect the negative side or both positive and negative?

WhiteBird00

In any electrical circuit, it is necessary for both positive and negative to be connected in order for current to flow. Therefore, when you are trying to stop current from flowing, you can disconnect either positive or negative to achieve the same result. By convention (and for a couple of other reasons that aren't really important), it is normal to disconnect the negative terminal on a car battery.

Azrael

That sounds like the "Clutch Protection" cutting timing at higher RPM quick shifts.