Pete's 2000 GT
#561
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I hate to hear that. :-/
Have you checked out the wiring all around the engine bay? Before I had to get rid of mine, I had a couple of places in the wiring in the engine bay where the wires coating where breaking down. The pigtail going to the crank positioning sensor was the worst. It gave me errors with the cps and misfires.
I understand your frustrations. Hope you can fix it and move it soon. I also hope you enjoy whatever else you get into.
Have you checked out the wiring all around the engine bay? Before I had to get rid of mine, I had a couple of places in the wiring in the engine bay where the wires coating where breaking down. The pigtail going to the crank positioning sensor was the worst. It gave me errors with the cps and misfires.
I understand your frustrations. Hope you can fix it and move it soon. I also hope you enjoy whatever else you get into.
#562
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Rewired the coil and still no luck. Pulled the sparkplug and it looks good. I'm going to try switching the coil pack to another cylinder in the morning to see if the issue moves, but right now I'm at a loss. I also don't understand why I'm not getting a check engine light even when I pull the connector on the coil. It should give me a P030X code.
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Well, problem solved. I ran new wires from COP to the distribution boxes before it goes into the chassis, with no luck. Then I bought a spark plug (cheapo 1.99 Champion copper plug) pulled the coil and tried looking for a spark. I don't know what the right way to do this is, but leaving the head with an open hole where the plug is supposed to be didn't seem like a good idea to me. Once I saw there was no spark I swapped coils to the one next to it, and when that one sparked I knew it was the coil. It's probably the last thing in that whole circuit to go bad, so I probably should have guessed it would go one of these days.
Anyhow, I'm writing up my ad for Craigslist. I think this was the last straw. I love the Mustang scene, and I'm not sure there are a better set of guys and girls in the world. It's just time to move on. Right now I'm looking at 01 SE Miatas (Torsen diff, 6 speed). I'd love to get one with/and a hardtop. I don't need to deal with a cloth top, and I don't think I'll want to put it down frequently enough to mandate maintaining the fragile cloth.
Anyhow, I'm writing up my ad for Craigslist. I think this was the last straw. I love the Mustang scene, and I'm not sure there are a better set of guys and girls in the world. It's just time to move on. Right now I'm looking at 01 SE Miatas (Torsen diff, 6 speed). I'd love to get one with/and a hardtop. I don't need to deal with a cloth top, and I don't think I'll want to put it down frequently enough to mandate maintaining the fragile cloth.
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I'm honestly over my car too. And I've only had it since May. So funny because I also looked at Miatas a few years ago, totally wouldn't mind one!
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Well, Pete if you weren't on the other side of the country I would be trying to work out a deal with you. I would love to pick up your car as a long term project. You have already got some great mods going. Some one is going to pick up a cool car.
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I fully understand your point man. Mine has been acting up too. Like the timming marks are off, an elusive clunk in the undercarriage, and so on. Miatas are a good base for a fun cruiser, eothet for DD to full race machimes. Albeit I would prefer a S2000
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Might need these too, if you get a Miata . . .
http://miataroadster.com/autokonexio.../i-542635.aspx
http://miataroadster.com/autokonexio.../i-542635.aspx
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My alternator failed the other night leaving me high and dry on Valentine's Day. Glorious.
It's a PA Performance 130 amp alternator. I used a voltmeter on both leads that go into it and the output wire. I'm getting 2volts from one, 12 volts from the other and 12 volts coming off the alternator. As my car runs I can see the voltage drop by a tenth of an amp every 10 minutes of running. Spinning the motor faster than idle didn't seem to increase the voltage coming off the alt. Any ideas what could be up? I checked continuity of all the wires and they all read less than a tenth of an ohm, so I think they should be fine.
Thanks guys
It's a PA Performance 130 amp alternator. I used a voltmeter on both leads that go into it and the output wire. I'm getting 2volts from one, 12 volts from the other and 12 volts coming off the alternator. As my car runs I can see the voltage drop by a tenth of an amp every 10 minutes of running. Spinning the motor faster than idle didn't seem to increase the voltage coming off the alt. Any ideas what could be up? I checked continuity of all the wires and they all read less than a tenth of an ohm, so I think they should be fine.
Thanks guys
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