panamajk89

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll likely give it a shot again tomorrow.

Chrizzle17

nice well written directions...like the pics thanks

delz05

Just picked up a Trunk Release switch from Ford Parts. P/N is D3AY-19C542A, a yellow buttoned switch with black bezel. Has 2 prongs for connection. Ford Parts guy recommends using the wht/purple wire and ground connection as opposed to "hot wiring" pink/orange stripe. Was told the factory wired the older Lincs, CV and Grand Marqs in same fashion. Believe that the 80's and 90's Stang were done this way as well. Hope to complete tonite or tomorrow. BTW switch lists at 9.13, I paid 5.00. Working on an inexpensive Ford glove box lite/switch combo as well. Will advise when I come up with the easiest solution.

panamajk89

Well, I tapped the white/purple wire and put the other to ground. Nothing! I'm beginning to think the switch is bad. I'll have to get another one to see if I have the same issue. Happy Thanksgiving!

delz05

I tried to use the wht/purple wire as well, no luck. I pulled plastic cover from truck lid, found wire to be white with pink strpe. Double checked by grounding wire with test lite, solenoid activated. John's info in post #48 is in error. :bang:

This wire (16g-18g) runs thru loom, under pass side door sill, then up behind kick panel. Remove both, lift carpet, pull open wire loom, look for wht/pnk (thin wire 16-18g) I only saw one in my loom. I poked a small hole thru taped end of loom, and ran a wire to this point, attached to wht/pnk with "Scotch-Lock", regrounded (just touch metal) to insure proper activation (trunk will release), taped and closed all this up, ran wire up pillar and out of open glove box, dropped all the way open.
At this point I attached a ground wire to the glovebox frame grounding point (10mm bolt), the ran both new wires thru a new wire loom, up glovebox frame, across top, over to left side and then down to mounting hole. Use plastic ty-wraps to secure.
I used a two prong connector taken from an old Lincoln harness, attached both wires, pushed connector into mounting hole, and done! Took less time to install than it did to write this out! BTW, Ford uses yellow, black and orange activation switches, depending on model of car. Yellow was most common in the 80's Mustangs. If possible, you can get switch and connector from junk yard.

Following is pic of finished switch, front and back photos

delz05

Front...

Torch_Vert

Photos posted for delz05:

panamajk89

Thanks for the insight, Paul. I'll have to try this after the holiday.

ualpow

[quote=delz05,November 23, 2005, 8:05 PM]
I tried to use the wht/purple wire as well, no luck. I pulled plastic cover from truck lid, found wire to be white with pink strpe. Double checked by grounding wire with test lite, solenoid activated. John's info in post #48 is in error. :bang:


12volts lt. green/purple (20A) + ignition harness
Starter dk. green + ignition harness
Ignition white/yellow + ignition harness
Power Lock white/purple or orange/black - SJB, blk 26 pin plug, pin 3 or 8 Power Unlock dk. blue/lt. grn or yellow/red - SJB, blk 26 pin plug, pin 1 or 5 Lock Motor red/orange 5wi DKP or SJB, blk 5 pin plug, pin 3
Unlock Motor yellow 5wi DKP or SJB, blk 5 pin plug, pin 1
Disarm Defeat lt. blue 5wi PKP or SJB, gry 36 pin plug, pin 14

Parking Lights+ SJB ctrls each light separate
Parking Lights- black/lt. green - sw. or SJB, blu 52 pin plug, pin 31
Hazards red/white - sw. or SJB, blu 52 pin plug, pin 24
Turn Signal(L) SJB ctrls each light separate
Turn Signal® SJB ctrls each light separate
Door Trigger use dome supervision wire
Dome Supervision lt. green/yellow - SJB, gry 26 pin plug, pin 25
Trunk/Hatch Pin white/yellow + lt. or SJB, blk 26 pin plug, pin 15
Hood Pin purple/orange - pin or SJB, blk 52 pin plug, pin 15
Trunk/Hatch Release white/purple - PKP or SJB, blk 52 pin plug, pin 13
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm lt. blue/pink - DKP or SJB, blk 26 pin plug, pin 18
Factory Alarm Disarm lt. blue/black - DKP or SJB, blk 26 pin plug, pin 9
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm
Tachometer NOT red ac any ignition coil or fuel injector
Horn Trigger dk. blue - col. or SJB, blu 52 pin plug, pin 39
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A


This is where I got my info and wired my alarm's trunk release to white/purple wire. This wire does not go to the trunk, it goes to the SJB under the Pass kick panel. There are many ways to make this work and the way i did it just requires a low current ground. If you connect to the solenoid you should use a relay although if you have a high current switch that should work also. There may be many WHT/PUR wires near the kick panel so you must test to see what you have. Be carefull with test lights they can draw too much current for some circuits. A digital volt meter is the safest way to check.

Joediveguy

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(panamajk89 @ November 23, 2005, 10:52 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thanks for the insight, Paul. I'll have to try this after the holiday.
[/b][/quote]

Did mine yesterday. Very happy now. I went to the local junk yard and found a couple older Fords, Mustang and Escort (I think) and pulled a couple of the yellow trunk release buttons (including the connectors and wire) out of them. $2.00 for three. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img]

I followed the instructions outlined and tested the White/Purple wire with a poorman's low current test light (LED+wire+alligator clips) sliced a little insulation off and connected one clip to it and touched a grounding bolt and got a red light. Good to go, I thought. Now I'm no EE or ME and don't claim to be. In fact I hate dealing with electrical stuff. Any way, when I ran a test switch and shorted it to ground it blew a fuse somewhere and the wire went dead??? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img] GREAT!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smilies23.gif[/img]

After a lot of head scratching, [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img] foul language and about a gallon of sweat, I discovered the blown fuse was the Shaker 500 Amp fuse! Whew, Though I really screwed the pooch on that one. OK, lessons learned:

1. Local junk yards rule for finding deals.
2. The heater I bought last year for the garage is AWESOME!
3. Big White/Purple = Shaker 500 Amp
4. Little White/Purple = Power locks
5. Little White/PINK = Trunk/Hatch release [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

I wired one side of the switch to ground and the other side I spliced to the Little White/PINK wire coming from the rear of the car using a 3M connector.

I like the idea of hiding the switch somewhere but every hidden location I could think of meant more routing and time spent so I just put it on the upper ledge of the glove box frame right next to the latch hole. Due to the angle of the Glovebox frame it is not visible unless you get down and look into the Glovebox.

The whole thing should have only taken about 30 min but because of my electrical ineptitude, it took me over three hours including a trip to the local auto parts store for a 30 Amp fuse!

BTW, I have an extra Ford yellow trunk release button if anyone wants it. Just pay me for the shipping costs and it’s yours.

Hope this helps………Joe

dustindu4

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IE8Z28 @ February 26, 2006, 10:31 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
BTW, I have an extra Ford yellow trunk release button if anyone wants it. Just pay me for the shipping costs and it’s yours.

Hope this helps………Joe
[/b][/quote]

mememe

Joediveguy

Sorry guys, I gave the last one away. I might be going back in a couple of weeks. If there is a demand I'll see if I can find some more

md_mustang

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(delz05 @ November 23, 2005, 9:05 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I tried to use the wht/purple wire as well, no luck. I pulled plastic cover from truck lid, found wire to be white with pink strpe. Double checked by grounding wire with test lite, solenoid activated. John's info in post #48 is in error. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]

This wire (16g-18g) runs thru loom, under pass side door sill, then up behind kick panel. Remove both, lift carpet, pull open wire loom, look for wht/pnk (thin wire 16-18g) I only saw one in my loom. I poked a small hole thru taped end of loom, and ran a wire to this point, attached to wht/pnk with "Scotch-Lock", regrounded (just touch metal) to insure proper activation (trunk will release), taped and closed all this up, ran wire up pillar and out of open glove box, dropped all the way open.
At this point I attached a ground wire to the glovebox frame grounding point (10mm bolt), the ran both new wires thru a new wire loom, up glovebox frame, across top, over to left side and then down to mounting hole. Use plastic ty-wraps to secure.
I used a two prong connector taken from an old Lincoln harness, attached both wires, pushed connector into mounting hole, and done! Took less time to install than it did to write this out! BTW, Ford uses yellow, black and orange activation switches, depending on model of car. Yellow was most common in the 80's Mustangs. If possible, you can get switch and connector from junk yard.

Following is pic of finished switch, front and back photos
[/b][/quote]

Thanks for the additional details (little white/pink wire under the door sill). Just installed mine and it works like a charm!