05-09 Interior and Audio Mods Enhancing Your Mustang's Interior and Sound System

Audio Upgrade

Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
All I know is I don't want to ever run wire from the car body to the doors again. That was teh suck. I'm not even sure how I did it. But the engineer that came up with the harness that's inaccessible to anything larger than a racoon hand should be downsized.
OMG!

At first I was going to use a Polk Component System for the doors, but after I realized that nothing was getting through the grommet between the doors and the inside of the car, I said screw it!
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:15 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CrazyGreek89
The only thing that kinda of pissed me off was there was no real way to conceal the microphone and the GPS antenna.
You can put the GPS antenna under the carpet of the rear package tray under the rear glass. There's a recessed area there that should work well. I know several have there's here without issue.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Deric
You can put the GPS antenna under the carpet of the rear package tray under the rear glass. There's a recessed area there that should work well. I know several have there's here without issue.
I was going to do that, but I didn't know whether or not the rear package tray would hinder the signal in anyway.

I don't like my present location of the GPS antenna, only because I will be installing my rear-window louvers, again this summer, and I'm not sure whether it will effect the signal.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #24  
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I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:28 AM
  #25  
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Quick update--

I finally powered up everything yesterday, and found that the 5.0 and Super fords article from a few months back was right -- there is no switched or accessory power on the original harness in the 08+ (07?) Mustangs. I was using the service manual files from the 05 models along with a pin-out description of the Shaker 500, also apparently for the 05-07 models. Checked my actual harness, and half the wires mentioned weren't even there. All I had was a 12V batt, ground, and I'm assuming the start inhibit lead. NO ACC, no VSS. Had to use the mini add a fuse trick from the magazine to get power from the pass kick panel fuse bus. What a pain!

Still working on the amps, will post more after this weekend.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Darth Stang
I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
No rerouting necessary, I was just bypassing the factory amps and needed more power and better wire. So I went through the trouble of rerouting the wire.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:48 PM
  #27  
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I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Bhead32
I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
I can send you all the files you'll need to help with the install, assuming it's the 05 model in your sig you're talking about. The files just don't apply to the 09, which is the problem I had.

You DO need the antenna adapter from what I've seen (you can get it on Amazon or Ebay real cheap), and the volt regulator is if you aren't replacing the factory amps, which sounds like you're not, so you'll need to do that -- there's an AVIC D3 thread on here that describes it. Also check out Avic411.com for the DVD/nav parking bypass. Otherwise the metra harness is all you need, I THINK.

PM me your email address and I'll send the files (I have the Crutchfield "Master" sheet for that year, too).
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CrazyGreek89
OMG!

At first I was going to use a Polk Component System for the doors, but after I realized that nothing was getting through the grommet between the doors and the inside of the car, I said screw it!
It can be done. I managed to install some Boston components in a friend's car using 12 gauge speaker wire through the door grommets.

I would estimate it took me 8-10 hours to do. If I had to do it again it would take two or three. My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.

You can actually slip the speaker wire just underneath the clip (see attached photo). Let me know if you really want to attempt this and I will do a write-up.

Tim
Attached Thumbnails Audio Upgrade-dsc02595.jpg  
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tdbrown75
It can be done. I managed to install some Boston components in a friend's car using 12 gauge speaker wire through the door grommets.

I would estimate it took me 8-10 hours to do. If I had to do it again it would take two or three. My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.

You can actually slip the speaker wire just underneath the clip (see attached photo). Let me know if you really want to attempt this and I will do a write-up.

Tim
I'm sure there's ways to do it, but I don't care for it. I shipped back the component system long ago, and just used regular Polk's for the front and rear.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Darth Stang
I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
I can't speak for the Metra harness because I have the PAC harness that Crutchfield sent me. That being said, I just used the harness, didn't really have to re-route anything, but you do have to cut and crimp/solder (whatever floats your boat) into the factory harness with the new one. You can't avoid that.

Regarding the responsiveness, I don't see a delay. Mine is pretty good at distances and I know where I have to turn. The AVIC F series is known for its overly-repetitiveness on turning. He will warn you several times more than a normal GPS. Some people hate it...I like it!

Originally Posted by Bhead32
I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
I have the PAC harness, but my factory subs still don't work. I'd like to think my brother and I wired it wrong, but we have down many audio system installs and never had anything not work. Still, there could be a chance it wasn't crimped right, but if that was the case something else would be effected by the mis-crimping which would cause 2 things to not work and it would be noticeable. Judging from a few posts before you, the Metra 21 harness will do just fine, although I have no information about this harness.

As far as the subs go, I have a sub in my trunk now, and delivers much more bass than the door subs did, so I'm not concerned about them anymore. Had I not had the rear sub, I would be a little upset if I wasn't getting any more bass from the door subs.

They're crappy anyway Get aftermarkets ones! HAH
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 06:14 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by tdbrown75
My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.
One tip I have for anyone doing work that requires removing panels etc is to wear the blue nitrile gloves. I usually wear a size smaller so they are really. It has saved me from having many cuts and scrapes on my hands
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