Audio Upgrade
At first I was going to use a Polk Component System for the doors, but after I realized that nothing was getting through the grommet between the doors and the inside of the car, I said screw it!
You can put the GPS antenna under the carpet of the rear package tray under the rear glass. There's a recessed area there that should work well. I know several have there's here without issue.
I don't like my present location of the GPS antenna, only because I will be installing my rear-window louvers, again this summer, and I'm not sure whether it will effect the signal.
I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
Quick update--
I finally powered up everything yesterday, and found that the 5.0 and Super fords article from a few months back was right -- there is no switched or accessory power on the original harness in the 08+ (07?) Mustangs. I was using the service manual files from the 05 models along with a pin-out description of the Shaker 500, also apparently for the 05-07 models. Checked my actual harness, and half the wires mentioned weren't even there. All I had was a 12V batt, ground, and I'm assuming the start inhibit lead. NO ACC, no VSS. Had to use the mini add a fuse trick from the magazine to get power from the pass kick panel fuse bus. What a pain!
Still working on the amps, will post more after this weekend.
I finally powered up everything yesterday, and found that the 5.0 and Super fords article from a few months back was right -- there is no switched or accessory power on the original harness in the 08+ (07?) Mustangs. I was using the service manual files from the 05 models along with a pin-out description of the Shaker 500, also apparently for the 05-07 models. Checked my actual harness, and half the wires mentioned weren't even there. All I had was a 12V batt, ground, and I'm assuming the start inhibit lead. NO ACC, no VSS. Had to use the mini add a fuse trick from the magazine to get power from the pass kick panel fuse bus. What a pain!
Still working on the amps, will post more after this weekend.
I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
You DO need the antenna adapter from what I've seen (you can get it on Amazon or Ebay real cheap), and the volt regulator is if you aren't replacing the factory amps, which sounds like you're not, so you'll need to do that -- there's an AVIC D3 thread on here that describes it. Also check out Avic411.com for the DVD/nav parking bypass. Otherwise the metra harness is all you need, I THINK.
PM me your email address and I'll send the files (I have the Crutchfield "Master" sheet for that year, too).
I would estimate it took me 8-10 hours to do. If I had to do it again it would take two or three. My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.
You can actually slip the speaker wire just underneath the clip (see attached photo). Let me know if you really want to attempt this and I will do a write-up.
Tim
It can be done. I managed to install some Boston components in a friend's car using 12 gauge speaker wire through the door grommets.
I would estimate it took me 8-10 hours to do. If I had to do it again it would take two or three. My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.
You can actually slip the speaker wire just underneath the clip (see attached photo). Let me know if you really want to attempt this and I will do a write-up.
Tim
I would estimate it took me 8-10 hours to do. If I had to do it again it would take two or three. My back hurt for weeks and my hands were badly cut up. Never again.
You can actually slip the speaker wire just underneath the clip (see attached photo). Let me know if you really want to attempt this and I will do a write-up.
Tim
I'm a little confused...some of the older threads about installing AVIC Fseries say the door subs work fine with the Metra harness and none of this rerouting is necessary. Can some of you long time owners chime in and confirm this? Also, does the navigation software respond quickly to turns or does it lag like the Garmin's possibly causing missed turns? Thanks!
Regarding the responsiveness, I don't see a delay. Mine is pretty good at distances and I know where I have to turn. The AVIC F series is known for its overly-repetitiveness on turning. He will warn you several times more than a normal GPS. Some people hate it...I like it!
I want to install the Pioneer Avic F90 BT and have the shaker 1000. Crutchfield recommends a PAC harness that costs 129.99 dollars. I went to an audio shop and they said this unit was not necessary so they sold me a METRA 21 harness which has two harnesses inside. Is this harness all i need or do i need the expensive PAC harness suggested by crutchfield (along with the dash kit)? I dont think i need an antenna adapter or a voltage regulator either correct?
As far as the subs go, I have a sub in my trunk now, and delivers much more bass than the door subs did, so I'm not concerned about them anymore. Had I not had the rear sub, I would be a little upset if I wasn't getting any more bass from the door subs.
They're crappy anyway
One tip I have for anyone doing work that requires removing panels etc is to wear the blue nitrile gloves. I usually wear a size smaller so they are really. It has saved me from having many cuts and scrapes on my hands
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




